BillW50

Outstanding @Russ ModCrate! Pictures are perfect too!

Yes I too have many DNA mods, over 90 at last count. All but one reads about the same as the next. The only one that doesn't and it should come as no surprise is my Vape.Tools Railbox DNA40. The 510 socket runs up and down on this track system with wiper blades and all. You are just begging for resistance issues with this kind of design. But it is still nice for a mod collection nonetheless. And sometimes you can get a nice vape off of it too. Yes I say set the wattage to 1 watt for safety, since in case the mod fires on its own or the user accidentally mashes down on the fire button. Otherwise it doesn't really matter what the wattage is set to. I say short it with a screwdriver since that is something virtually every vaper has available. Not everyone has one of those DNA200 Calibration tools to use, like some of us.

I just randomly grabbed three mods and three tanks @rcamarda and I played switcheroo. Zeus X Kanthal Mesh 0.224Ω Hyperion DNA100C 0.23Ω Geek Vape Original Aegis 0.223Ω Geek Vape Aegis X Cerberus (not sure of the non-TC coil in there right now) 0.302Ω Hyperion DNA100C 0.31Ω Geek Vape Original Aegis 0.298Ω Geek Vape Aegis X Aspire Atlantis Ni200 0.157Ω Hyperion DNA100C 0.17Ω Geek Vape Original Aegis 0.161Ω Geek Vape Aegis X Of course, I could keep making the list longer and longer all day. But I am not seeing anything out of line here. So what does your resistance reads on your DNA mods when you set the wattage to 1 watt (for safety), have the Atomizer Analyzer reading live and you stick a screwdriver to short the 510 pin to the threads without firing the mod read? Don't worry about that spark if you see one. It is harmless to you. If you're curious what the Aegis X reads shorted, it reads 0.000Ω and errored Atomizer Short.

You can do either. That was not the video I thought it was. Here's the fix video.

Some Odin DNA250C and DNA75C, the 510 mounting screws on the inside can come loose. Thus the resistance starts reading higher and higher in time.

What mods are these DNA in? Would the DNA75C be in an Odin Mini perhaps?

Of course we are interested. 😀

Point well taken @rcamarda. Although I don't know if it would make a difference for most DNA users. What I mean is I believe most DNA users would change how their DNAs came anyway. I, like many others change it to our liking with EScribe when we first get them. And that might be the first and last time we connect them to EScribe. And the manufactures of DNA mods also share responsibility. They should tweak the DNA settings to their mod and to the best user experience. After all, you would think manufactures would want their mods to be ahead of the competition, right? And some high end manufactures does in fact do this. They add custom themes and more useful wire types. But most don't. They just wire up the board and shove it out the door unfortunately. And yes, I could see how a settable TCR profile could be useful. But not having access to the schematics and to the firmware source code, I'm not sure if the current hardware this would be possible. It might require more board memory or something. Another problem facing Evolv about making any changes whatsoever, is for the US market they have to submit a whole new PMTA application. Which is very time consuming and expensive to prepare. And the way things are going at the FDA, it would most likely be denied anyway. Until the government accepts innovation, users are kind of stuck with what we already had before Aug 8, 2016 unfortunately. 😟

I also forgot to mention what is the version of firmware on each 250C? You can see the version on the bottom right on the Device Manager. Starts with SP something.

I've seen this on DNA75C, 100C, and 250C boards. Can't recall seeing it on non color boards, but it might be there too. Some chargers stop charging briefly because it is the only way to get an accurate battery reading. I never measured it on how often it does it, but every few minutes sounds about right. It will also stop charging if you fire the mod. As it is hard on the charger if you are firing and charging at the same time. But that one won't charge batteries at all? Or it does, but takes forever?

Those only have been around less than a year and are still covered under Evolv's one year warranty. It's those Abyss Stormtrooper DNA60, right? https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Rebel probably does checkout each mod before shipping. Apparently something happened between them to you, unfortunately. Sending it to Evolv is another option if Rebel gives you any trouble. Hopefully I am not mistaken, but I believe Evolv has someone in the UK to handle warranty claims. So if you are in the UK, that would be easier, no? https://www.evolvapor.com/warranty

Oh... it isn't using an early beta firmware that had that same problem. Does it putout say 20w if it is set at 20w? I am wondering how low you have to set it before it puts out the correct wattage. The battery is fabulous, firmware is fine (SP45.1 INT)... the only thing left is the board.

The bottom right, it says what firmware version you are running. I can't read it, what does it say?

What is the make and model of the battery that you are using? Under EScribe's Device Manager, does the cell voltage drop like a rock when you fire it?

Sounds like soldering flux. You use soldering flux with heat and solder as it cleans the connection while soldering. Although once the solder cools, it should be removed with alcohol or electronic cleaner. Leaving it on can eat away at the connection with time. Most solder has a small amount of flux too. Still should be cleaned afterwards.

I saw this error once just recently. Which mod did yours happen on? Anyway, I pressed the up button and it disappeared.

Yes, the Sony VTC5D will work fine.

Take your pick. You're looking for 25A or better. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/

Mooch rates SONY VTC6 cells at 15A, not Sony's 30A rating. Thus they are good for about 45 watts each. So two of them, that is 90 watts. If they have been recharged many times and/or are years old, of course then even less than 45 watts each. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/bench-retest-results-sony-vtc6-15a-3000mah-18650…a-fantastic-15a-20a-battery.846895/

Very common problem among high wattage vapers. Either one or both batteries can't supply enough current for the dialed in wattage. Thus the board only allows the wattage that the batteries are capable of.

You didn't mention what kind of wire you are using. Looks like some SS type to me, maybe SS316L. Higher resistance cold than hot sounds like you are using contact coils (non-spaced). If true, the wraps (some) are likely shorting when warm. Some use spaced coils to avoid such hotspots. The higher room temperature reading is due to the thermals (Case Analyzer) are not calibrated. Which isn't surprising since Dovpo and some other manufactures don't bother doing them and just use Evolv's default values. You might find someone who has done it for the Odin Mini already and just use those values. Another thing to consider, while I haven't heard anything about the Juggerknot MR, but some atomizers are not stable enough to do TC well. For example Kayfun recommends do not to use resistance under 0.4Ω (according to PBusardo). But many do it anyway. If an atomizer uses gold plating for electrical contact, there is a good chance it is likely just fine.

Yes, many of us noticed this. The atomizer analyzer on the DNA100C won't read less than 0.10Ω. Evolv knows about it, but never gave a reason why that is.

https://www.protovapor.com/product/replacement-dna-screen/

I didn't know you had a hot air station. You could try to heat it up until the solder melts and then let it cool and give that a shot. If an internal layer is fractured, the heat might mend it too. But the latter usually doesn't work for long.