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TorturedZen last won the day on January 13

TorturedZen had the most liked content!

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About TorturedZen

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/03/1955

Personal Information

  • Full Name
    Dan White
  • Location
    Midwest USA
  • What DNA product do you own or plan to buy?
    Hcigar VT133
  1. Here's my screenshot. Atty is Augvape Boreas V2, spaced SS 316L dual fused claptons...
  2. Correction on those numbers. I meant to type 0.1 - 0.2 My apologies...I was tired when I posted last night. I'll get a screen shot up here later today.
  3. All my builds are SS316L using a TCR of 92. Average ohms between 0.15 to 0.20. Coils are always cold/room temp. I usually set temps around 400-420, 60-70 watts no preheat. First couple of hits are excellent. Then TC kicks in, cuts the wattage and compromises my vape. No matter which atty I use or what build, it still hits TC way too soon. Tried lowering wattage, raising temp thresholds... same thing. So now, when my Therion hits TC I'll remove the atty then quickly put it back on. It detects new resistance since the atty is still hot (usually only a 0.01-0.02 difference) asks if it's a new coil, so I tell it YES. (hope this is making sense so far). I then lock the new ohms detected and the vape goes back to normal, without TC kicking in. I understand you shouldn't have to lock ohms unless the atty is wonky but all mine are solid and I've always double checked for loose leads etc. So what the hell am I doing wrong? Or not doing? And please don't say SS316L is a crap shoot. It works fine on other devices. Thank!
  4. I could be misunderstanding you here but alien wire, claptons and such aren't anything special in terms of build profiles. Your quad-trak alien barbed wire laser etched coil made from SS316L is still going to have the same TCR properties as a single round wire 316L coil. Even if the coil consists of differing materials you can pull a custom CSV from Steam Engine, upload it to your Vaporshark and give it a name. Pretty basic like Sam said. In terms of atomizer profiles that's more a personal thing. The DNA chip doesn't care what atty you're using as long as the connection is solid.
  5. This might be a stupid question but in Escribe, on the Mod tab, have you configured the correct battery type in terms of capacity and watt hours?
  6. Thanks for replying. The last time I worked with a ZIF socket was putting CPUs onto PC motherboards. What's the difficulty level should I have to replace the screen?
  7. Greetings fellow DNAr's. My Hcigar VT133, purchased back in July, has developed this annoying line that spans the entire length of the screen. It has not affected the functionality of the device and appears to be only aesthetic at this point. Has anyone else encountered this anomaly? And is there an easy fix, or am I looking at replacing the display?Thanx in advance!
  8. I saw this over on VU. If you haven't read it yet then it may be of some help.
  9. Bypass mode... as in emulating a mechanical mod? Not sure why anyone would want to do that. You definately don't need the DNA for that purpose. If not, then I think maybe "Power" mode is what you want but not sure what you're trying to do.