BillW50

Slow ramp up means it is time to turn on boost and/or increase it.

Is this for checking resistance? If so, EScribe (DNA software) has an atomizer analyzer. And it will run it as long as you want. It displays the live resistance without firing. It does warm up the coil slightly. Probably not as high as 100°F, but it might. This also might be helpful... I tried 1 watt under temperature control (TC) a few months back. I forget why I tried this, but it wasn't doing what the DNA expected and it kicked out of TC mode every time. I had to get above 5 watts before it was happy enough and stayed in TC. You might run into the same problem trying to do TC at 100°F with any board.

Tried it on a DNA75C v33.2 and sent serial command T=100F and it didn't work. T=200F does work. Time to open up a ticket to Evolv and tell them you want to set a DNA to 100°F and let us know what they say. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

I seriously doubt they will ever release the source code. Because once that happens, there will likely be many clone DNA boards floating around. And that is how IBM lost the PC market. Their firmware (BIOS) was reversed engineered. Preheat can be set between 200°F to 600°F, but it fades out after the start. So I don't see this working out for you. There is a set temperature command through the serial port. But I don't know if it will accept outside of the range of 200°F to 600°F?

Lower than 200°F will most likely be a firmware mod request to Evolv. It's probably easy for them since they have the proprietary source code. Keep in mind, with temperature control, you must use a non-resistance heater. For vaping, this is usually Ni200 (nickel), Titanium, or Stainless Steel. If you use a resistive heater like Kanthal or nichrome, it won't work under temperature control. So how long do you want to maintain 100°F for? Normally vape boards only fire for a maximum of 10 seconds or so. Some DNA boards with the latest firmware can use Session mode. This mode it will fire as long as you want. Not sure if there is a max time limit.

Yes, the non-color DNA250 will work with two or three cells. And yes, it is wired like the DNA250C datasheet. Don't forget the change the board with EScribe to 2 cell configuration.

Don't forget that Geekvape also has VPC (variable power control) too. Where you can preset the wattage for every half of a second of a puff. Yihi also has something better, called Smart Curves (SXi-EQ). Instead of setting the curve to power values, the curve adjusts by percentage of the wattage or temperature setting (50% to 150%). What's odd is no matter how fascinating and fun all of these things are to play with. 99% is my guess of wattage only vapers still only use straight wattage mode even though they can change it with some mods. I have to admit, I've played a lot around with Arctic Fox, VPC, and SXi-EQ. And maybe because I am mostly a chain vaper, the best flavor for me is 40% to 60% of the recommended power without any curves and just chain vape away. This results in say a starting temp of like 350°F and it curves to 450°F for every puff. As certain flavor notes pop out at certain temperatures. Too high or too low and you won't taste them. So when you curve through the temperatures, you taste them all. You seem to want to keep the temperature constant in wattage mode by adjusting the power on a graph for each puff. This is what many TC vapers setup to do. I did too in the beginning, but I found you get a better flavor by ramping through temperatures like straight power mode does. And it is easy to setup TC to vape just like power mode by curving through the temperatures. If you too try this and like it better, then all of those power curves are useless. Since the coil normally starts cold and gets warmer during your puff anyway. Coils and attys also play a big role. Ones that cools down the fastest seems to work best with curving through the temperatures and/or for chain vaping. Let me know what you think.

Interesting.

The DNA Go ones, the older firmware works for all of mine (I have four of them) including ECigStats. I have four Dovpo Abyss DNA60, but two of them are still sealed in their boxes. So the two that I use has never worked with ECigStats (I bet the other two doesn't either). So I don't know? DNA Go has the USB built into the DNA Go board, so I figure that is all Evolv firmware. The Abyss is different. Same error though.

I mean Dovpo USB-C board, sorry.

That's interesting @GaryP. As all Dovpo Abyss Stormtrooper DNA60 experience the very same. But they use a Dovpo USB3 board instead of a Evolv micro-USB board. So I blamed it on Dovpo. EScribe works fine with them though. I've never seen this on my other DNA mods including my DNA Go mods. But mine are probably running older firmware than yours.

Greetings @Wayneo! Those are pictures of the HOG Mech Mod. The HOG DNA400C door looks completely different. But I understand what @Frank7814 and @retird are talking about. It bothered me in Bogan's video, he was using four Samsung 25R and had the mod set at 400 watts. Then he said it was getting quite warm. I bet! That is the wrong battery for that kind of wattage. You need four 18650 that could do 100 watts each.

I have two HOG DNA400C. None of them are draining one cell. I just wanted to say this before people start believing all are like this.

The flaking of the gold plating could cause problems for sure. But was the resistance changing while you were firing? If so, that is what SS316L is supposed to do.

But SS changes resistance as it warms. Your wire isn't changing resistance at all. All of my SS wire does. So how do you explain this?

Indeed! If the wire attracts magnets, it is most likely Kanthal. If not, then most likely nichrome. FYI: SS316L isn't magnetic either.

Can you connect to EScribe software and open EScribe's Device Manager and have the power, temperature, and live ohms checked and take a puff and then take a snapshot and upload it? Live ohms should be increasing as the coil gets hotter. SS316L only increases about 15% from room temperature to vaping temperature.

What DNA do you have? All of the color boards (75C, 100C, and 250C) the Profile 316 is fine for 316L

If you are worried about the resistance (ohms) increase, it is fine.

If you are smoking with a DNA, you are doing something wrong @Lukasz369ns. Nothing should be smoking (aka burning). You should be vaping and making vapor. And SS316L changes in resistance as the wire temperature changes. SS316L at room temperature will always read lowest when it is cool. And at vaping temperatures, it increases to upwards of 20%. Yours is what, like a 14% increase? That is perfectly normal.

Some themes like the one you're using, you can turn Replay on or off for each Profile by a toggle. Found on the Profile Set screen with your theme. If that check box for Replay isn't checked, that Profile works like a Profile without Replay. And there will be no way to save a puff. By the way, you can only save the last puff unfortunately. Someday this might change.

I haven't used that theme. So hopefully someone who has will chime in. Kind of looks like the Evolv default theme. Or maybe Lost Vape has their own now.

Congrats on getting a Hammer of God. Replay works with either watts, Kanthal, and TC Profiles (basically everything). Replay won't do anything until you save the last puff. Once saved, it will repeat that same puff over and over again until you cancel. Also Replay won't work with Kanthal or nichrome. Since neither changes resistance enough when heated. So there is nothing there for Replay to work with.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/72032-what-is-boost-and-warmth/#comment-939702 The coil has a certain sluggishness when heated - the thicker (and lower resistance), the more sluggish. You need more power to reach the target temperature than to maintain it. With "boost" you provide more power for a short moment at the beginning of the puff. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, an already heated coil can quickly burn the cotton. If you finally press "Save" in Replay mode after several puffs, it may be that the previously set power is not sufficient to heat up a cold coil to the saved temperature (or the saved resistance value during the puff) right away with the first puff . With "warmth" you allow the mod to deliver more power. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, the coil will quickly burn your cotton. Don't be confused if I keep talking about temperature, although "only" wattage is used - it's always about heating the coil to a certain temperature, even if this isn't the direct control factor. The replay mode is based on the change in resistance of the coil, which is why it can only work with temperature-sensitive coils. With "boost" and with "warmth" the increment (1 to 11) depends on the underlying performance. i.e. with more output power, each increment means more power plus than with a lower output power. "Preheat" is a special form for temperature-sensitive coils (e.g. SS316): this function is similar to "boost", but has some peculiarities, which I would go into separately if necessary. Here, custom themes open up wide (theoretical) possibilities, which are often misunderstood.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/72032-what-is-boost-and-warmth/#comment-939702 The coil has a certain sluggishness when heated - the thicker (and lower resistance), the more sluggish. You need more power to reach the target temperature than to maintain it. With "boost" you provide more power for a short moment at the beginning of the puff. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, an already heated coil can quickly burn the cotton. If you finally press "Save" in Replay mode after several puffs, it may be that the previously set power is not sufficient to heat up a cold coil to the saved temperature (or the saved resistance value during the puff) right away with the first puff . With "warmth" you allow the mod to deliver more power. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, the coil will quickly burn your cotton. Don't be confused if I keep talking about temperature, although "only" wattage is used - it's always about heating the coil to a certain temperature, even if this isn't the direct control factor. The replay mode is based on the change in resistance of the coil, which is why it can only work with temperature-sensitive coils. With "boost" and with "warmth" the increment (1 to 11) depends on the underlying performance. i.e. with more output power, each increment means more power plus than with a lower output power. "Preheat" is a special form for temperature-sensitive coils (e.g. SS316): this function is similar to "boost", but has some peculiarities, which I would go into separately if necessary. Here, custom themes open up wide (theoretical) possibilities, which are often misunderstood.