BillW50

Well @thomasck, I would measure on the board with batteries installed and measure the voltage between B- and B+. That's both cells in series. Then measure B- to that one point alone around of center of the balance connector (orange wire in the drawing). That reads one cell only. Then measure from the same point on the balance connector to B+. That reads the voltage on the other cell. I'm guessing they will all read correctly, but you have to rule it out. Now if the above reads fine, then it is the board. I would guess the surface mounted BMIC (Battery Management IC) BQ76925 has a connection loose or has failed internally (probably a fractured layer). Without the equipment to deal with it and without experience using it, either hope Evolv will take pity on you or you need another replacement board is my suggestion. I wish I had better news.

I don't know why you heard it isn't recommended to jumper those two points. Since they came from the same spots on the battery. And many DNA mods are wired just that way anyway (I'd be surprised if the Triade isn't wired that way). And those four connections between the B+ and B- is known as the balance connector (lipos usually has a balance plug on them). If you add the jumper (bridged) for the B- and the closest balance connector connection and do the same on the B+ side, which also has two closest pins bridged (jumpered) for a two cell DNA200/250 mod. If you bridged both ends, you don't need the wires on each end of the balance connector contacts. Since they are the same points as B- and B+ respectfully anyway. Nor does the balance connections need be be heavy gauge wiring either. Since they don't carry much current. If you bridge them like you did for the Triades, it really shouldn't fix or correct anything since your wiring does the same thing. Unless the one or more of the balance wiring had a break somewhere. Then bridging would correct (fix) it. Do you have an ohm meter? If you do, those two spots you want to bridge should be 0Ω (shorted) to B- and B+ respectfully. If they are not, there is a break in the wiring going back to the battery.

I might be mistaken Mark, but I believe if Evolv changes anything, they have to submit a whole new PMTA. I too noticed this with flat wire and with flat mesh too. Although to me, everyone vapes too hot. So I vape at lower wattages and temperatures and even round wire lasts a very long time. Sometimes I vape my Reflex a lot and sometimes I vape something else. But I had the same pod in mine since August of 2021. I vaped 4038 puffs and went through 20.6ml of juice since then and the pod is still fine. I just turned the boost off and the wattage down.

Wow! Nobody said anything yet? You can try installing older and newer firmware for the DNA200 (Tools -> Apply Service Pack). Some may be all ready on your computer. But I don't think it will help at all. Don't install anything except for the DNA200. Also what model is this mod? As some have an extra board like the HCigar VT133. Also what kind of batteries does the mod use? Lipo, two 18650, three 18650, etc.

It will mainly effect TC vaping (but barely). Wattage mode, you probably won't notice.

Right, but I would still check against ISO standards to be sure. But most vapers doesn't need that kind of accuracy.

Careful, I wouldn't tighten too hard on those aluminum threads.

That is what that BB 510 uses, plus the copper calibration plug made of something like 99.7% pure copper.

Well @Andruala those Vandy Vape Vessel tanks are slightly shorter than a boro. So I was surprised it even made a connection in the Supbox at all actually. Because it is barely touching and the pin which is spring loaded and not even pressing down on it. Both the SXK-BB and the Supbox had the internal resistance set at 0Ω. I just checked the internal resistance of that SXK-BB by shorting it with a SS coiling rod and it shows .028Ω. Not the most accurate way to test it and the threads could use some cleaning. I also have a BB 510 adapter and a copper plug which would be much better way in my closet that I ain't going to dig out right now. But no, not all devices are .06Ω. Some are more like in the .004Ω range. But I've never seen a BB read that low. As aluminum isn't such a great ground either. The original BB has the same thing, so it isn't just SXK.

Well the data sheet shows aluminum is about 70% higher in resistance than copper. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copper-aluminum-conductor-resistance-d_1877.html And why would you expect that without mod resistance set, it should read a coil just with 0.006 ohms higher? And how do you know the Vandy Vape is reading right? Did you check it against an ISO17025 accredited calibration? And what value is the Vandy Vape using for internal resistance? You don't know, do you? I got one Vandy Vape right here with a VCC30 Kanthal mesh. They say it is .30Ω. The Vandy Vape says it is .28Ω. Stick it in a SXK-BB and it says .329Ω. Stick it in a SXK Supbox DNA60 and it reads .367Ω. Although the Supbox is using SS for ground I think. So which one is reading accurate? We don't know until we check it against ISO standards, now do we? But I also have another Vandy Vape and that one also reads lower than I think it should too. I got a third Vandy Vape yet out in the mailbox right now that I'll get in the morning. I bet that one reads low too.

The Pulse AIO uses copper to make the ground connection. While the Billet Box uses the aluminum box for ground. And aluminum is about 70% higher in resistance than copper. You can remove the negative battery clip (two screws) and try to clean up the connections, but I would think most of the resistance is from the aluminum box itself.

Try this. Take the batteries out and then connect to the USB. If it now connects, good. Now put the batteries back in while the USB is still connected. Now it should be fine.

The board is only capable of 2A max. The 4 cells @ 2A will only charge each cell @ 500ma (0.5A). So 2A is fine.

The proper way to charge lithium batteries to to charge say 3.7v lithiums to 4.20v @ 100ma (some use 50ma) and then cutoff when current drops less than this. The current will drop lower and lower as it gets closer to 4.20v in a charger. Once the charging stops, the battery will always drop a few percent. If you don't stop charging at 100ma (50ma) once the battery level reaches 4.20v, you are overcharging and it will quickly shorten the life of the cell. If you want to double the life of the cell, you should stop charging 3.7v lithium cells at 4.10v @ 100ma. You can change charging to stop at 4.10v with DNA200, 250, and 250C boards with EScribe (maximum recharges). I wish this option was available with their other boards. Maybe they can't because of the chips they are using or something.

Time for an Evolv ticket. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Dovpo Odin DNA250C high ohm reading - temp protection - Part 1 Dovpo Odin DNA250C high ohm reading - Part 2

Yes I figured as much. That is why you move the ground wire and solder directly to the 510 base itself.

I never had a problem with my Paranormal mods either. Although others have had door problems. And some have reported if the 510 is too long of your atty, it pushes down on the 510 pin too far and it touches on the positive side on one of the battery connections. Thus sending over 6 volts to your coil until you unscrew your atty. It could damage the DNA250C board too. Although I haven't heard of any blown boards. Luckily the Odin mods are easy to take apart and easy enough to put Loctite on the threads and the Odin should outlive many of us.

Yeah I have 5 Odin DNA250C and 5 Odin DNA75C. None of them have experienced that problem yet.

Ah yes, I saw those two videos myself. None of my 5 have suffered from that problem yet.

Have you tried dubious or unlikely Replay options yet?

Either submit a ticket at: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1 Or tell us what is going on.

An authentic Billet Box from Billet Box Vapor? The ones that cost $250+? The ones without an USB port?

Is it fine if you take a second puff right after the first one? Or is the delay still there?