BillW50

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/72032-what-is-boost-and-warmth/#comment-939702 The coil has a certain sluggishness when heated - the thicker (and lower resistance), the more sluggish. You need more power to reach the target temperature than to maintain it. With "boost" you provide more power for a short moment at the beginning of the puff. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, an already heated coil can quickly burn the cotton. If you finally press "Save" in Replay mode after several puffs, it may be that the previously set power is not sufficient to heat up a cold coil to the saved temperature (or the saved resistance value during the puff) right away with the first puff . With "warmth" you allow the mod to deliver more power. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, the coil will quickly burn your cotton. Don't be confused if I keep talking about temperature, although "only" wattage is used - it's always about heating the coil to a certain temperature, even if this isn't the direct control factor. The replay mode is based on the change in resistance of the coil, which is why it can only work with temperature-sensitive coils. With "boost" and with "warmth" the increment (1 to 11) depends on the underlying performance. i.e. with more output power, each increment means more power plus than with a lower output power. "Preheat" is a special form for temperature-sensitive coils (e.g. SS316): this function is similar to "boost", but has some peculiarities, which I would go into separately if necessary. Here, custom themes open up wide (theoretical) possibilities, which are often misunderstood.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/72032-what-is-boost-and-warmth/#comment-939702 The coil has a certain sluggishness when heated - the thicker (and lower resistance), the more sluggish. You need more power to reach the target temperature than to maintain it. With "boost" you provide more power for a short moment at the beginning of the puff. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, an already heated coil can quickly burn the cotton. If you finally press "Save" in Replay mode after several puffs, it may be that the previously set power is not sufficient to heat up a cold coil to the saved temperature (or the saved resistance value during the puff) right away with the first puff . With "warmth" you allow the mod to deliver more power. Problem: If you set a value that is too high, the coil will quickly burn your cotton. Don't be confused if I keep talking about temperature, although "only" wattage is used - it's always about heating the coil to a certain temperature, even if this isn't the direct control factor. The replay mode is based on the change in resistance of the coil, which is why it can only work with temperature-sensitive coils. With "boost" and with "warmth" the increment (1 to 11) depends on the underlying performance. i.e. with more output power, each increment means more power plus than with a lower output power. "Preheat" is a special form for temperature-sensitive coils (e.g. SS316): this function is similar to "boost", but has some peculiarities, which I would go into separately if necessary. Here, custom themes open up wide (theoretical) possibilities, which are often misunderstood.

The US firmware doesn't support Replay on the DNA75C, due to the PMTA requirements.

Those will work just fine in a Hammer of God DNA400C.

See Mooch's recommendations. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/

Where do you see 45A? Usually something-A means something-amps in vaping. If you want 400 watts from a quad 18650. Then you want 30A 18650s or better. If you want 250 watts or less, then quad 20A 18650 are fine.

They have quad 2x700 mods, but they are mech mods without a board. They are also called Hammer of God. The one with the DNA250C board has a DNA400C after the name. Yes, misleading, but you get the idea. If dropped... its a hunk of aluminum. I never dropped my two, but I would think they would be able to take a lot of abuse. There is really nothing I see that would break or anything. Maybe the plastic window over the screen if it was hit just right. Otherwise there is really nothing.

How about a quad 18650? The Hammer of God (HOG) DNA400C uses a DNA250C with an output of 400 watts (with capable cells). They only make a small batch at a time. So if everyone is out of stock, they will usually do another run in a month or two. Be warned, with batteries they weigh about a pound. They are almost all aluminum. I own two of them and I never had a problem with either.

Here's the PDF of the BQ76925. Either RGER or RGET will work fine. What's the difference? I believe only Texas Instruments only knows. https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/bq76925.pdf

Yes, they are still in production.

Warmth option does what it says. It adds warmth (extra power) to your puff.

Not from Evolv directly anymore due to the PACT Act (if you live inside of the US). But there are vendors who will sell you a board.

You want the square (not rectangle) BQ76925 24 pin IC. You are very unlikely find a RGER or a RGET after it. Since that was just for that particular production run. And that one the charging failed! So why would you want one from the same production run? As another one from the same run may likely fail the same fate.

The AXH4 stuff is version, lot, etc numbers. So those are not important as far as replacement. The new values of USB power and current is what I would expect from the older firmware. And yes, I do think it is a failed chip.

For the specs of the chip, you're gonna have to Google like I would. It's manufactured by Texas Instruments btw. Everyone I know, if they suspect the chip is faulty, they just swap it out with a known good one. It always seems to work.

That 24 pin (6 pins on each side) square chip right above the USB is the Battery Management IC and is a BQ76925 I think. It controls charging and battery management functions. But if the firmware has it set to not charge, it won't. But I would try an earlier firmware version before I would even be thinking of replacing that chip. I hadn't heard any newer firmware incompatibly problems with older board revisions, but who knows. And you can check this in seconds.

Looks like the USB charging has been toggled off to me. EScribe's Device Manager bottom right and hit the Diagnostics button and you can set the charging. Give that a shot.

Opening up a ticket is the way to go here. As only a firmware update will correct this.

Is this for dabbing using a ceramic silicon heater?

EScribe communicates with the DNA board. It allows you to do things like change the theme, update the firmware, customize Profiles, etc. It also aids in troubleshooting if it isn't vaping correctly.

My secret to keeping mine running since they first came out is to keep them upside down when not vaping. I know, easier said than done. Some e-liquid does likely get in there while I am vaping. But at least it is kept to a minimum.

Sounds like those batteries are just toast. Nothing can be done to save them unfortunately.

Batteries could explode. Best thing to do right now is to cut down on the wattage.

Well 2v is probably getting dangerous. Lithiums get into trouble when their voltage is too low. I'm sure the cells will hold a 4.2v charge. But the real problem is they lost their high amperage and just can't keep up anymore.

Try in EScribe... Options -> User Interface -> Manufacture. Mod -> Battery -> Cell Soft Cutoff (set to 2.50v) Upload settings to device