BillW50

What does EScribe's Atomizer Analyzer say? 15Ω? And what theme are you using? Since different themes can be looking at different readings? Although yours does sound like the theme is using live ohm reading when firing, cold reading when not. The C-boards doesn't update the cold Ω's in real time, like the non-C boards do. The C-boards requires keypresses in the theme to reread the cold resistance.

Under EScribe's Device Manager, you can select how long a fire button tap will fire for. There is also Boost and Preheat to warm your coil faster.

I'm familiar with the Pico 75W. But I don't recall an autofire. Is this using the ArcticFox software or stock? And briefly, what does it do? All DNAs in TC mode will update the temperature readout in real time. To see it in real time as a graph, requires EScribe's Device Manager. Is this what you mean?

Maybe not. The DNA250 also sports reverse battery protection while the DNA200 does not. Btw, ever noticed in EScribe's Device Monitor (DM), pressing the "F" key allows you to set how long the DM's fire button fires for?

I just checked one of my Odin Mini DNA75C and if the atomizer 510 pin is shorter than 3.8mm, it won't reach to make a connection. Have any idea how long your 510 pins on your atomizers are?

No it isn't. I have over 90 DNA mods and not a single one had a screen issue. Although I do hear of a case now and then. But I would follow @retird advice.

Yup, battery voltage is too low and the mod drops the wattage to compensate.

Try Dubious or Unlikely setting for your SS coil. The puff counter... yes... I wish they would fix that. Time and date. There is a tiny backup battery soldered on the board that should keep for a few minutes without a battery. But if you wait too long changing batteries, that backup battery will be drained.

Either the cell can't supply enough amps (has Mooch tested the Cylad 18650 40A for 40A?) or you have battery connection problems.

You want to see the graph on the computer screen or on the mod itself? On the computer screen open EScribe's Device Manager and check the temperature box. On the mod itself, on the default theme, you can select the puff and it will show you a graph. I use Frank's theme on all of my color DNAs and it is called Trend there to show the graph. You can page back to over 400 prior puffs too. While you can set color DNAs to up to 20 seconds of firing, I've never seen a color DNA fire longer than 10 seconds anyway. Are you sure it can fire longer than 10 seconds? Now I know non-color DNAs can.

Remove the USB device from the Windows Device Manager that says unrecognized and reboot Windows and try again. Even if your other DNA devices connects just fine.

Does it have an USB3 port? Or is it an USB microUSB? One of my Abyss DNA60 doesn't connect either with an USB3 port, but the other one does.

One of those with an USB3 port? Anyway try without the battery and see if it will connect then. If that doesn't work, while connected, open the Windows Device Manager and remove the USB that says unrecognized and reboot Windows and try again.

I have one Dovpo Abyss DNA60 that won't connect unless the battery is removed, then it connects just fine. Did you try it without batteries? I know it is a shot in the dark, but easy to try.

The wattage is set on only 16 watts. Resulting in temperatures around 130°C (245°F). Why is it set so low?

Yes, I have four of them with two still sealed in their boxes. One is currently using the Abyss EUC bridge with an EUC SS316L 0.5Ω coil head. Yes the TC is working just fine here.

How much current are you seeing on the DNA250C during cooldown?

Yes they are expensive. You could recheck the tightness of the screws and that might help.

Yes it can be. Since some attys are not stable (resistance-wise) enough for TC. PBusardo mentioned that the Kayfun mentions this in its own manual.

A DNA will kick out of TC if the wire type selected is wrong or you are using a non-TC wire. So what type of wire or coil head or you using?

Outstanding @Russ ModCrate! Pictures are perfect too!

Yes I too have many DNA mods, over 90 at last count. All but one reads about the same as the next. The only one that doesn't and it should come as no surprise is my Vape.Tools Railbox DNA40. The 510 socket runs up and down on this track system with wiper blades and all. You are just begging for resistance issues with this kind of design. But it is still nice for a mod collection nonetheless. And sometimes you can get a nice vape off of it too. Yes I say set the wattage to 1 watt for safety, since in case the mod fires on its own or the user accidentally mashes down on the fire button. Otherwise it doesn't really matter what the wattage is set to. I say short it with a screwdriver since that is something virtually every vaper has available. Not everyone has one of those DNA200 Calibration tools to use, like some of us.

I just randomly grabbed three mods and three tanks @rcamarda and I played switcheroo. Zeus X Kanthal Mesh 0.224Ω Hyperion DNA100C 0.23Ω Geek Vape Original Aegis 0.223Ω Geek Vape Aegis X Cerberus (not sure of the non-TC coil in there right now) 0.302Ω Hyperion DNA100C 0.31Ω Geek Vape Original Aegis 0.298Ω Geek Vape Aegis X Aspire Atlantis Ni200 0.157Ω Hyperion DNA100C 0.17Ω Geek Vape Original Aegis 0.161Ω Geek Vape Aegis X Of course, I could keep making the list longer and longer all day. But I am not seeing anything out of line here. So what does your resistance reads on your DNA mods when you set the wattage to 1 watt (for safety), have the Atomizer Analyzer reading live and you stick a screwdriver to short the 510 pin to the threads without firing the mod read? Don't worry about that spark if you see one. It is harmless to you. If you're curious what the Aegis X reads shorted, it reads 0.000Ω and errored Atomizer Short.

You can do either. That was not the video I thought it was. Here's the fix video.