Wayneo

@SaintVapingBad "I would advise people not to set watts much higher than you vape at (protects you if you fire with the wrong wire profile)" that was the fancy part I was talking about. Luckily I've never made that mistake. But continuing on, there's also been talk/suggestion of being able to have preheat changed to a % of wattage instead of a hard value, which imho would be better. Any thoughts on that, or would that require a multi page thread with conversation/arguing ala the temperature dominant display thread?

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@black lace. Oooh that thread. The user never did report back what worked and Viruk (low punch) had posted something completely opposite to me (high punch). Either way, I'd just say set up another profile with 'low' punch. What's also missing from there, is that after seeing the results for that type of coil, one can then fine tune/change all 3 parameters to their coil build if they wish (to get all fancy). Ramblings: I leave my settings high and let the board do its job, which it does. (That little 5F over temp (Karloz spike) at ramp up on an initial cold coil is not even worth typing about) Jaquith back in the old days, with the old algorithim, got better results with low punch for SS.

All I was really trying to show, was that two different wire types/gauges have different power requirements. So just because 16 watts in Kanthal works for you, to get the same from another wire type or coil would be different. There is no right or wrong 'hotness' of the vape, just what you prefer. I don't know of a conversion from the heat flux value and wattage to temperature, but at least you know if you like a hotter or cooler vape. The same temperature value of different wire types/gauges should be the same though. I've never used that wire. In Device monitor, do you actually come up to temp using such a low value, and high temp? A print screen of both the profile and firing with the 'temp' options checked works wonders.

Steam-engine. Have you checked the 'heat flux' of both builds in their 'coil wrapping' section for general equivalence?

@Smeef, I forgot to mention, just in case you didn't realize it. To test for 2A charging, you must use, say a half charged battery, and an external charger. On the mod one of the fields must be set to show charging current.

@Smeef Can you check if your board can do 2A charging?

@giz_60 ... so can't verify if it works on Apple or IOS devices. If someone can chime ......... Works just fine. Actually you can do that for any website on your browser. Steam-engine works well.

I'm just waiting on a few last parts before getting myself a new mod built and I'll need to run my own MFG settings. Luckily I have an old version 2016/02/23 which works.

Has anyone managed to retest with this latest EScribe 1.2 SP5.2 to see if this is working again? Or even better, is it on any official list for it to be fixed in the future, which should then show up in the notes for each new release.

@giz_60 Did you change your cell soft cutoff as suggested beforehand?

Speaking anecdotally, My brother in the Construction industry has 4 VS DNA40's, and now 1 VS200, for years. They look beat all to hell. They all still perform as good today, as when new. They've been dropped, run over, etc. are very battle scarred and none have had any issues. I'm now at 3 DNA200's, and 2 DNA75's, and none have required any sort of warranty repair. Mine come from mainstream China mod manufacturers and all are 18650 based. They all perform as new, for me. The only difference I can see from your posts and my usage is that you mention you use drippers (juice leakage) and neither of us do. We might be lucky that somehow you keep 'taking one for the team'. Back in the day for electronics manufacturing, with through hole components, once the product survived 'burn in' it was pretty much golden. Today with SMT I don't know if that still holds true with your comment on resistors falling off. Either way, you could open your VS to look for moisture and a resistor inside the housing before calling VS.

I've used those and they work with most atty's, except some have shorter 510's. Now I just use 26650 or 18650 replacement battery insulators that stick to the original 510. I've also ju triimed my own from the lid of a Pringles can, or any fine plastic.

@morphflow if you find it's not worth it after speaking with Madmodder, order yourself a replacement screen ($12 USD here), and try to do it yourself. Screen replacement, after getting to the board itself, is at most a generous 1 minute job. Lift tab, pull out old screen's wire, insert new cable, push tab down, reassemble mod. Or find a hobby/electronics repair that would do that for you locally.

It also appears that your Finder 133 has not had the different profiles setup for different wire types. Personally, If you're happy with the SKAR, I'd save the profiles that are on it individually, then I'd load those same profiles (don't forget materials) in the same order on your Finder. That way you don't need to relearn the way either mod is configured.

@Heavy Metal Machine Now that's how you make a first impression. Fantastic

WOW!! What a mess. Mod Res at 0, Lipo battery curve, non-optimal sc cutoff, definitely wrong Wh's set. All that with 62k puffs. Is this a used, but new to you mod that you've been 'playing' with?

Well, manufacturers should run a few of their units through testing to come up with the Mod Resistance for the units. The more accurate this is, helps with temp control, and other interpolated values. If YOU want, you could run it yourself for your specific mod, for the most accurate value. VS is a highly respected company, so I don't think you'd find much difference, so it's not a must do. All in all, I think you're good to go.

@arzhaq Yes for ALL DNA's that use escribe

How can you be at a loss. Your first Device Monitor shot showed you were in Profile 3, your second (which matches with your profile setting 5) shows it works. Edit: excellent screen captures. Makes helping so much quicker. Beautiful solid TC you got there

@darth vaper, with all respect to @stevef I'd suggest different changes. The beauty of the DNA is you can test and monitor both easily. I'd suggest 2 things. Using the profile you showed, I'd raise your punch to 11 and time to 2 seconds. It looks like a staggered fused clapton you have, so by increasing those 2 items, although you have 2 seconds, punch 11 will stop your pre-heat once you're within ~10F of your set temp. Try both and report back, please.

Yes @oddly.orangre.

Whoa, pictures with all that blur/jitter, but made it out. I see you're never even really coming up to temp. Can you do a print screen of your profile 7. With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer or (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload)

@Darth Can you post a Device monitor screenshot with at least the 2 temp boxes checked, and another of the profile, please.

It'a a standard data/charging cable. Buy the thickest one you can find. I assume your lost cable WAS working the last time you used it. I also assume, you've tested whatever you plug into still works with those other cables.