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Wayneo

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Everything posted by Wayneo

  1. Because LV's is just plain wrong and why I suggested this .... without naming names. From your excellent Printscreen's move your preheat punch value to 11, and work slowly backwards to the ramp up you prefer. And finally a complete Printscreen from 'Device Monitor' with Power, power set, cold ohms, live ohms, and the 2 temperature options, while firing. Finally follow @retird info to set your mod resistance
  2. What is the value for your mod resistance? If it zero, you should set that.
  3. Knowing that a lower more conservative value or 0 is better than a higher number than actual ...... That's quite high as far as most mods go, not saying it's wrong, just seems high. How did you come up with that value?
  4. With all respect, I vehemently disagree with this post. All USB devices draw the current/power they want/need from the charging source. A high quality charger and cable are the 2 most important factors. I personally trust chargers from higher end mobile devices such as Samsung and Apple, even the 4A chargers. Don't trust your end devices to some cheap no-name charger to save a few bucks.
  5. Before we start .......... MOD tab -> Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture Can you post a complete Printscreen of that mod tab ensuring you have scrolled to the bottom of the screen. Printscreen of the Profile you're using And finally a complete Printscreen from 'Device Monitor' with Power, power set, cold ohms, live ohms, and the 2 temperature options, while firing. Trash whatever 'material' files were on the mod, and download your own from steam-engine (like I believe you did). Couple things about DNA mods You should not lock your resistance unless you have a janky build or connection Your coils before vaping should be at the ambient temperature
  6. What options are acceptable to you? How's this one: Find a local modder via a FB group or ask at your local vape store if they can diagnose and repair.
  7. For TC you're talking, right? Your thoughts are correct, and luckily I've never had to lock. But, have you checked that your thermal values and mod resistance are set correctly? When you go and lock your ohms when it's working, you stop refinement. Could it be that your coils are made from different batches of SS (being an alloy) they're not all the same?
  8. Yes, for the most part, your settings are now current, and fine (except for your mod resistance which is not relevant for this). Much wiser to work with your vendor then manufacturer before opening it up.
  9. Make sure that bottom battery screw is firmly snug, not Superman tight.
  10. Sounds like a battery connection wiring or grounding issue. Can you check any external screws around the battery compartment Showing .2V yet, in an earlier post your battery showed ~4v?
  11. Then another printscreen of device monitor while firing. Lose the board temp tick, add the green 'power' tick.
  12. Follwed by, or also update your firmware. In your 1st screen shot in dark blue, it says to upload
  13. Whew baby. For starters change that 'cell soft cutoff' value to 2.8v, upload to device, and see how that helps
  14. I think there's a theme's thread you can browse with more than you can imagine. I'm just an old guy with none really. Straight stylized text. I have/use zero images except one for my name using wingdings font.
  15. Enjoy your 1st DNA, it's all good.
  16. Close. You set 100w on your mod, like every other mod. 1st it showed (fire button) 0. Like a car when you floor it, you don't hit top speed immediately
  17. Well, normal behaviour is to show the wattage you set, you hit the fire button, display goes to 0, shows an intermediary value or 2 while it's headed to your set value. Keep watching that display on the mod, does it go to 100?
  18. What made you think 63.4 watts only?
  19. You could also try Facebook, or even their phone number on their repair page
  20. @pr0naLd Pretty much correct there. The 75 is 6.2V, 60 and 75C is 9V no matter the amount of batteries. The 2xx boards with 3 cells are 9v and 9.3v output voltage limits.
  21. @wintergreen Is that the original .ecig file straight from Lost Vape, and before you checked your own mod resistance do you remember what it was set at. Not that it relates to your issue, but it's good for us to know if they're shipping these out with just the Evolv standard. It's not available on their website yet, so I couldn't check myself. Doing your own thermals will take around 3-4 hours, but it'll just run and you don't need to watch it.
  22. That weak battery issue was merely a warning that was fixed almost a year ago in its latest firmware 2016-06-05. That was not a 'board issue' IMHO, but more due to Battery sag, while vaping at high wattages. For a single battery 75, I personally use Sony VTC5A. For my 2 & 3 cell mods I also use those HG2's.
  23. Can you do a File - Save as, and post a copy of your ecig file. And what did you settle at for your mod resistance value?
  24. @retird While you were doing that, I was checking if I could just delete my comment with this new forum software, but got sidetracked.
  25. I have an OG Cleito. I use SS successfully. They are the .4ohm coils, with black rings/gaskets on the coil. Aspire uses orange bands for their clapton coils. What coils are you using? If you're saying that sometimes these same coils work, check for a clean 510, threads, coil on properly snug.
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