Wayneo

I have 2 leather mods. A lost vape efusion duo, and a Triade. Every couple months, I'll use some waterproof boot/shoe protector on them. They're now both a year old, and have aged like a well worn leather jacket. They have a warmth in my hand or when resting against my leg. Still very happy with both. I'm a round button kinda guy, but the Evolv reference are square so I don't have one.

What makes you think this? Don't know if I'd even suggest you check your build, cuz steam-engine closely agrees with your mod also

Strictly ICON DISPLAYED. Does NOT affect your mod or batteries. You're overanalyzing. You can still use any battery with any curve. Some of my battery analyzer results show a complete discharge at anywhere from 2.9v-3.19v. P.S All good questions. Welcome.

Amen brother!

Super HIGH. As expected from that HIGH cutoff. Default is 3.09V - and usually meant for LiPO batteries. Still HIGH in my opinion. I lower mine to the 2.7-2.9V range for more battery life. Wherever you feel comfortable.

@John Knowing that constraint, could you start thinking about % change solutions. So 2 options essentially. The straight wattage value is 1, but for the %, If I set my watts to 'x' (in either wattage, or TC) let me (preheat or boost) to 50%, x% more. Sorta like how you let us ride/straddle the output voltage limit.

I'd say @retird gave you solid advice

Have you tried another set of batteries in it, or verified those voltages on a charger? What kind of batteries? Like @retird mentioned, Cell 1 is only .57V, Cell 2 @ 2.27V. For most 18650's, the manufacturer has a 2.5V value for a completely discharged battery. Once it hit's 2V bad things start to happen internally (battery), so if those numbers are correct, those batteries are toast.

How does it vape in straight power/wattage mode? What # of watts do you like with it? Those parameters look fine, but you can fine tune them after you answer the first question. No, not really ........... just tweaking. Welcome to the forum.

Hey man, shit happens ............. don't be so hard on yourself. I'm pretty sure an experienced 75C user will be along soon.

@giz_60 Yeah, that's probably cuz he's locked the ohms while hot/warm, the coil has not quite cooled, so it drops to it's resting ohms, then starts rising (or I could just be having some crazy delusional thoughts)

Hmmmm, have you leaked or spilled juice? I'd try removing your atty and cleaning the 510 threading on the mod and the atty. Questions: Why does pic 1 (SS) show you locking the ohms AND pic 2 (kanthal) show it NOT locked. Ideally, that's backwards for each. Kanthal preheat is a non standard cheat. With its own dedicated thread. So I won't make any more comments on that one

Escribe Screen tab. Very easy and possible to do. 4 device states to choose from (regular while in use OR just charging) and (Temp sensing while in use or just charging). Remember to upload changes to the device after you make changes. Welcome! Enjoy your mod.

Hardware limitation of 6v in 2 cell mode. Buck design, no boost.

2nd post in this thread is probably the issue. Definitely English in there

So 233 words later, and you never did mention what mod it is. I'm thinking this was Evolv with your autocorrect having fun.

File -> Save As (I usually name it mod-whats been changed) YES!

Yo Grumpy, SS is an alloy so that TCR value is close/correct for your current spool of wire. You ought to do that burn or water test or check it with a thermoprobe with every new spool you purchase. There is no specific recipe for any grade, more like minimums and maximums.

I don't have a 75C so take these with a grain of salt. I believe there's both a firmware and software update that you should load. We're up to at least v2. When you say 'restart' you mean a complete reboot of the mod, where it goes back to the initial screen? That would probably be causing your lock. As to why 'firing' would cause a reboot, check if still occurs after updates, but that sounds like the main issue. Did it just start? Drop the mod, leak juice, or did something happen before that started occurring?

The display shows live values. Absolutely normal while it's drawing current on it's way to your requested wattage. Your batteries are always read perfectly fine. Only that little display might be wrong. You can either search for your battery type here and use someone elses results, with their (new/used) batteries, and their mod OR run your own by running 'battery analyzer'. By using 2 different mAh sets, it will only ever be right for the Wh's you choose (LG2's vs rewrapped 25R's). Cell soft cutoff is most important for you. 2.7-2.9V works well (based on what you feel comfortable with)

I can vouch for that SS430 from Unkamen also. IIRC it was $10 for 100 feet. Even after a quick drill spin before twisting two pieces it was still quite springy and would deform easily. I ended up making 2x28 with 40g fused claptons. Great tiny coils that last a long time. Curve from Steam-engine. The 420F from my SS430, SS316, and Ti01 coils all feel to be the same heat to my lungs.

djlsb vapes on youtube has a video. Theme issues are probably best handled when you direct your concern to the theme creator if you don't want to troubleshoot it yourself (plus it might make it into their next iteration. Escribe stuff is common to everyone.

After working with @giz_60, if it's still no joy, (no vendor or mfgr warranty) open a ticket with Evolv. EVOLV HELP DESK - https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/?a=add

Whatever you want that makes you feel safe. Many of us will use 2.7-2.9 volts for round cells

Have you taken the button apart, cleaned or look at the insides, then put it back together? The light green actuator is held in place by the outer metal frame. You can lift it (metal tab only) slowly by one edge, and it'll come off at like a 45 degree angle, then just lift the rubber part up. Check and clean, put it back together.