Wayneo

I do not have a 75C so I could not plug in a device. Running 10.12.5 Sierra. Installed fine, no issues. General Observations Seems very Windows like. On the General tab I don't understand the purpose of the 'Current Profile' just above the Profiles. As I change to a different lower 'Profile' setting, that upper 'Current Profile' value stays the same. For preheat the time value has been removed BUT 'Punch' now gives us the option of 'Temperature' ... hmmmm. Also, the Max temperature of 600F was allowed to be changed to 700F and remained after changing other parameters. Perhaps checking that is set for a later stage. @James I've actually been compiling a list of wishes/enhancements needed IMHO, and can share either publicly or privately for your consideration, but I don't want to muddle this thread.

Yup. And it was predicted 4 months ago. Back in the pre-order days. Another area that might be of note to you is that while in 2S/166 watt mode, your Output Voltage max has also dropped to ~6V, so build accordingly. None of this is new or secret in any manner

Your 75 appears to give you better battery life (based on the screen) because it has much simpler battery management/display On you drone you have it set for ~13Wh, so the display will be off. Simple fix. Set your Wh's to say 22. When you get a check battery or you notice a weak vape, plug into escribe. Look at the Wh's it says you should have. Subtract that value (Around 3-6) from your 22. Your display will then be accurate. PS Your Therion 'mod resistance' has not been set.

Have you loaded the same battery curve, and set the same 'cell soft cutoff' on both? If you charge on an external charger, what resting voltage are they at when put on the charger?

Klingt wie Sie schlagen die 6 Volt Ausgangsspannungsgrenze. Verwenden Sie Dampf-Motor und ändern Sie Ihren Build (niedriger), wenn Sie höhere Watt wollen, wissen, dass Einschränkung Sounds like you are hitting the 6volt Output voltage limit. Use steam-engine and change your build (lower) if you want higher watts, knowing that constraint

Just what's posted in the last pic. I didn't notice it at first, or it was added after my comment. Very clean.

Hot damn, I like it, then again I'm a round button external fire button guy. Did you use a Mosmax sled? and can we see a pic of the innards

There is no single best. The way YOU vape and personal preferences will be YOUR best. If you're just talking about the battery setup, run the battery analyzer and use/save the values it outputs. About an hour of your time.

I'd follow the datasheet for wire sizes and type

I do apologize if this is a silly question ...................... What version of escribe do you have installed @schaub ?

In escribe do this Options -> User Interface -> Advanced so the 'Mod tab' shows

Single battery DNAs imho, I value resistance over mAh for less battery sag. Say a VTC4 or 5A, and carry a spare. Also suggest setting your cell soft cutoff in the 2.7-2.9 range.

Read my prior post.

I guess that must've been the wrong link, only showing the wire. In another thread it's mentioned to subtract the cold ohm value (.142) from the raw ohm value (.145), leaving a .003 which matches the copper plug. Sorry 'bout that.

3 things Have you updated your mod to the latest firmware? I don't own one, but I believe it's 2.0 SP4 In escribe, there's a value you can change the '% change' to trigger that message. Finally, it could be theme related.

@mstave With all due respect, I have found a copper tool is no longer an accurate tool for the 2xx series measurement ever since the Feb 2016 updates. With mine from smokefreemods.com, after Feb 2016, it would go to ~.006 then a ?. At the latest firmware, I'm also getting around the same (0.006 or 0.007) but no longer a '?'. I did retest my boards with the method below and get the same results as I already had before (0.002-0.006) while AA worked. Starting around here -> giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation (March 10 post)

LostVape has a 6 month warranty for their products. If your device is within that time period: LOST VAPE WARRANTY REPAIR - http://www.lostvaperepaircenter.com/ Located in the USA, Ohio.

Yes. There's a version 2 SP3, to accommodate the DNA75 Color, but no new enhancements for the any other board. I'd just stay right where you are.

Perfect. Every image shows that your mod is set up properly (not evolv defaults). Which would then lead me to ask if you've checked the build is still stable (since that Auto Fire) in Atomizer Analyzer (General Tab), bottom left. With those wires, you'll notice changes as it applies very low power intermittently). Apart from that, you've supplied enough info for other eyes. Would you mind, just telling us Escribe version and Firmware version for completeness

That burnt taste was because your mod was firing for that duration at the full 80 watts because of no TP. As to the 41297 value ....... can you make sure your 510 pin and all inside the 510 is clean and free of juice for starters. Can you post 2 more printscreens. Mod tab, better seeing the lower portion of the screen, not the upper. Material profile with SS316 selected in the right hand window. Edit: Your preheat time limit right now is set at 0. So you're not getting that at all. With some fancy coils, I'll use 2-3 seconds One last question - Do you remember that coil reading that same value 0.30?

Hey man, honest opinion here. Either way, it's a serial connection. I have never even seen one, but as a 2 cell, you're limited to 167 watts and 6V output voltage. I don't even know if the buttons line up. My suggestion would be to find a different enclosure. There are some nicer ones nowadays for if you want 2 cell, 3 cell or Lipo's

Well, the pics show that 1 cell is actually sagging a tiny little more than the other. See how that lower value on the vertical was red in pic1, then blue when you changed positions? So that looks decent. If you could have had that vertical at the very lowest point would have been perfect. Yes a Full printscreen is better. Why? Shows current firmware (but not needed here) Shows puffs, (eyeballing it, and if a wire issue suggest you contact LV. Shows the ending battery voltages (needed) Now over to the left Shows pack total, individual cell values, estimated wh remaining and %, board temp, room temp <- all used to help where to focus. Just from what I see, pic 2 could actually be the first vape, but I can't see the puff count, blah blah blah. Rambling, but I hope you can appreciate how excellent DM and a full printscreen is for troubleshooting. What is the actual error that flashes? or is it that .... Your battery says a certain high % and your screen flashes? Please post a Full printscreen of your 'Mod' tab And just 1 more Full printscreen while firing. Try to get that vertical line at the lowest point of the red or blue line like you did before Is it really just the battery display or % ? Does the mod fire even more (keeps working) after flashing? When you do take out the batteries to charge, what voltage are they usually at? (either on mod or charger)

Gents, not trying to rain on your parade here, but out of that group of the 3, which of them would you consider technical? If I wanted to take this approach, I'd approach one of the two trusted English technical reviewers.

No doubt you've already searched YouTube and used the Google with no results?

You're talking boutique companies. All choose the battery that will fit within the enclosure, or build/use the enclosure that will their battery of choice. Mooch has now published his Lipo testing results, and blown the lid off the hype and marketing. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/lipo-pack-safety-grades-and-performance-table.7807/ Quoting him "C ratings are useless. Some packs exaggerate them beyond comprehension with some actually rated above the point where 12AWG wire would melt. Melt! Even if we call that a "pulse" rating the wiring would reach several hundred degrees."