Wayneo

I don't know the part # for that actuators, but they're easy to take apart and clean. Metal housing, then rubber nipple, then like a washer, leaving only the soldered part. You might want to open a help desk ticket for the part #. The 250 gives you 2A charging (color and non color).

No extra keybindings that I'm aware of BUT you can get replacement drop in (same footprint) 250 boards at Protovapor for less than $50. https://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-dna-250d-retail-box/

Usually for a new coil, it will show the old and new coil values. If it did that, do you remember the values? When you remove the batteries or the atty from your mod, it forces the mod to re-read the Ω/temp pair.

@Yol Your english was very good in your posts. I cannot tell if you used a translator or not ..... it is that good. Keep us posted.

No, not for sure. But all is not lost. You can click on the "Help Desk" link in my signature line, create a ticket, and an actual Evolv employee will answer you. Let us know the answer, so I won't be as quick with replies. 👍 While we all wait, the search bar ↗️ works pretty good.

Merged into one topic. People will come along a year later and answer in the unanswered topic. Or you might end up with comments in both. Not a firmware problem. Sounds more like your positive pin on the 510 connector is pushed in a little to far. If you push on it with a screwdriver does it move in and out a little? Does this happen with all atty's? Did this just start happening?

This sounds like it's your first DNA device. Here's a great video tutorial on the board and Theme Designer. The video lingo, or escribe will get you familiar with DNA words. DJLSB vapes - Evolv DNA 75 C Full Review with eScribe and Theme Editor Tutorial - https://youtu.be/1dvBpTm-FQM And here's the datasheet for the 75C with more explanations. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75color.pdf

I do not believe your mod actively reads the resistance in standby because it's already stored in RAM. During that quiescent period it's waiting/checking for button presses, atty removals, etc. It does have to keep track of the resistance, especially with TC materials as they cool down and their resistance goes lower, but I don't know if that's the same as an actual 'read' as opposed to 'monitor'. On your 250C, with the latest firmware SP45, it powers down after 24 hours. Once your mod powers down/off it does re-read the Ω/temp pair, because it has no idea if an atty was replaced.

When you open a ticket, you should/could point them back to this post. And thanks for that initial screenshot, it's always very helpful. 😄

Not normal, BUT it's rather bold to immediately blame the mod. Have you seen the same behavior (battery icon) while plugged into an external wall adaptor, and with different cables? If you have, open a Help Desk ticket, and they will guide you. Link in my signature line. And welcome 👋

I NEVER said to do that. No need to. If you read my words, that was a question to the other dude, notice the '?'

Somehow I'd imagine there was also an unwritten 'Restore Defaults' added in there? Go read the post directly before yours and somehow I'd imagine there was also an unwritten 'Restore Defaults' added in there also.

NO NO NO. How did you ever use that other mod with way less information available for you to see or not see. Find a satisfying enjoyable vape using whatever temp or watts or preheat or not, and hit that power button. More watts = more energy used Longer puff = more energy used Higher temp achieved = more energy used More ml's vaped = more energy used Just enjoy your mod(s) and carry spare batteries if you need to. And if you're not getting gen S flavor ask me about Replay (much easier to dial in), no power spiral of death.

Absolutely, but yours was disabled. Great so with watts at 30, turn preheat on at 40w, punch 5. Still want quicker, try 7 or until it's quick enough for you. 18.47mWh ................. You're joking right.

Buddy I still don't understand, and there are so many different themes ......, escribe shows the facts. Your theme should correspond to escribe values. You might need to re-read what I've written. What I can tell you is (using your Device Monitor print), your mod never even hit the 60 watts you set before starting that power spiral of death. People post a lot of craziness. Both IMHO are dubious claims at best. Did you try turning the watts down to 30?

Was there any special reason you chose 220°C? Do you look at that temp set as a high limit that you don't want to exceed, OR you really like your juice flavors at that temp, OR you're just really looking for dry hit protection? Now I'll go look at your initial post again Once you've checked your coil for hotspots, etc. and it's at ambient temp you should remeasure for the 'cold ohm' value. You should only need to do that again if you change to a different profile. And you very very rarely ever should need to lock your ohms. didn't understand the majority of this, but 300°C is the limit on these mods. No idea what you mean for #1 #2. No, I don't think you need preheat at all. But if you do, the 'preheat power' (75W in your case BUT disabled) should be > 'power set' (60W in your case). And it's much easier to use the slider (1-11) compared to temp unless you know the temps that your specific juice components aerosolize at. That slider says how close your coil gets to that 'Temperature set' value (220°C in your case) before ending preheat

Perfect, and thank you. Well, you're certainly reaching that 220°C that you've set. Notice that solid horizontal red line, and that other red one that extends up to it (all 4 puffs). I believe you when you said 18-24W, because the final puff shows it was at 18.20W (value on the last puff, just below the squiggly green line) So I don't understand why you would set it at 60W. That is causing you to BLAST to that specific temp, and in case TC fails for some reason, you're in for a world of hurt. Depending on your juice, does it taste all right? You can easily blast through some flavors completely. IMHO you could easily drop the power to 30 watts and still reach that temp. Especially on an MTL setup, with straight wire, you shouldn't have a need for Preheat.

This sounds like it's your first DNA device. Here's a great video tutorial on the board and Theme Designer. The video lingo, or escribe will get you familiar with DNA words DJLSB vapes - Evolv DNA 75 C Full Review with eScribe and Theme Editor Tutorial - https://youtu.be/1dvBpTm-FQM And here's the datasheet for the 75C with more explanations. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75color.pdf Can you post 2 screenshots for me. The first being a Device Monitor while firing with the 'Power', 'Power Set', 'Cold Ohm' and 'Live Ohm' checkboxes enabled. The second being the Profile you're using. When you start escribe THAT profile # is shown as 'Current Profile'. When not using TC, so straight watts, how many watts are you using for an enjoyable vape?

Then you're good

Good to hear you're all sorted. Anecdotally, my 5 LiPo DNA mods all prefer being kept in use, or they'll go out of balance. Mind you, they are all ~4 years old and still have long life. I saw another user with a Plus, and if you have one you should go to Mod -> Battery page in escribe, and if the Battery Type says Lithium Polymer, you Change the battery type to Lithium Ion 18650. Then Upload settings to mod.

I should really have merged or deleted this post a year ago 😃 Yeah, One of those users who posted the same question twice. 🙃 Never came back to answer a question in his other duplicate post. #rageposting

Thank you for the screenshot 👍 Yeah, I know, I already said that. After seeing that green line I was saying I should have. Moving on, that's horrendous that SteamCrave would configure those parameters. Change the battery type from (Lipo) Lithium Polymer, to Lithium Ion 18650 Ideally, you should use your actual battery specs and run the analyzer yourself, or search for someone elses curve for your battery. Upload settings to mod.

It's right there below the 'Power' I asked you to post a screenshot of your Mod -> Battery page. I only asked if you had changed it.

I hope all these comments relate to the screenshot you posted. If you look at my screenshot (3) you'll see my cold ohm raised from the live ohms (from .363 to .430). Yours are a flat line. So long as your coil is SS your live ohms should rise no matter what based on your answers. You can try swapping atty's, and the current on working on your Plus should work on the Pro. During the swap, check the positive connection on your atty's are tight, and wipe down the threads on your mod and atty with a qtip and some ISO or windex. Edit: I didn't ask you to click on the Power Set option, but if you looked at the screen you might've seen the 'low battery' warning based on your green line. And there are no values shown like in my screenshot (3). Edit 2: And can you post a screenshot of your Mod -> Battery page. Did you change the battery curve on that Plus?

So, I can recreate what you're saying. If I change profile, take a few puffs, pull the batteries, wait 10 minutes, put batteries back in, the mod does restart using the previous profile. This is what you're saying. If I change profile, take many puffs, let the mod idle (I dunno I didn't set a timer) pull the batteries, wait till after dinner, put batteries back in, it restarts to that changed profile (not the prior). I had never noticed before because that's not how I vape. I rarely change profiles once I have an atty setup, usually. I will notify @JacobEvolv here, but really the best way would be for you to open an official trouble ticket at the Help Desk.