Wayneo

NO NO NO. How did you ever use that other mod with way less information available for you to see or not see. Find a satisfying enjoyable vape using whatever temp or watts or preheat or not, and hit that power button. More watts = more energy used Longer puff = more energy used Higher temp achieved = more energy used More ml's vaped = more energy used Just enjoy your mod(s) and carry spare batteries if you need to. And if you're not getting gen S flavor ask me about Replay (much easier to dial in), no power spiral of death.

Absolutely, but yours was disabled. Great so with watts at 30, turn preheat on at 40w, punch 5. Still want quicker, try 7 or until it's quick enough for you. 18.47mWh ................. You're joking right.

Buddy I still don't understand, and there are so many different themes ......, escribe shows the facts. Your theme should correspond to escribe values. You might need to re-read what I've written. What I can tell you is (using your Device Monitor print), your mod never even hit the 60 watts you set before starting that power spiral of death. People post a lot of craziness. Both IMHO are dubious claims at best. Did you try turning the watts down to 30?

Was there any special reason you chose 220°C? Do you look at that temp set as a high limit that you don't want to exceed, OR you really like your juice flavors at that temp, OR you're just really looking for dry hit protection? Now I'll go look at your initial post again Once you've checked your coil for hotspots, etc. and it's at ambient temp you should remeasure for the 'cold ohm' value. You should only need to do that again if you change to a different profile. And you very very rarely ever should need to lock your ohms. didn't understand the majority of this, but 300°C is the limit on these mods. No idea what you mean for #1 #2. No, I don't think you need preheat at all. But if you do, the 'preheat power' (75W in your case BUT disabled) should be > 'power set' (60W in your case). And it's much easier to use the slider (1-11) compared to temp unless you know the temps that your specific juice components aerosolize at. That slider says how close your coil gets to that 'Temperature set' value (220°C in your case) before ending preheat

Perfect, and thank you. Well, you're certainly reaching that 220°C that you've set. Notice that solid horizontal red line, and that other red one that extends up to it (all 4 puffs). I believe you when you said 18-24W, because the final puff shows it was at 18.20W (value on the last puff, just below the squiggly green line) So I don't understand why you would set it at 60W. That is causing you to BLAST to that specific temp, and in case TC fails for some reason, you're in for a world of hurt. Depending on your juice, does it taste all right? You can easily blast through some flavors completely. IMHO you could easily drop the power to 30 watts and still reach that temp. Especially on an MTL setup, with straight wire, you shouldn't have a need for Preheat.

This sounds like it's your first DNA device. Here's a great video tutorial on the board and Theme Designer. The video lingo, or escribe will get you familiar with DNA words DJLSB vapes - Evolv DNA 75 C Full Review with eScribe and Theme Editor Tutorial - https://youtu.be/1dvBpTm-FQM And here's the datasheet for the 75C with more explanations. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75color.pdf Can you post 2 screenshots for me. The first being a Device Monitor while firing with the 'Power', 'Power Set', 'Cold Ohm' and 'Live Ohm' checkboxes enabled. The second being the Profile you're using. When you start escribe THAT profile # is shown as 'Current Profile'. When not using TC, so straight watts, how many watts are you using for an enjoyable vape?

Then you're good

Good to hear you're all sorted. Anecdotally, my 5 LiPo DNA mods all prefer being kept in use, or they'll go out of balance. Mind you, they are all ~4 years old and still have long life. I saw another user with a Plus, and if you have one you should go to Mod -> Battery page in escribe, and if the Battery Type says Lithium Polymer, you Change the battery type to Lithium Ion 18650. Then Upload settings to mod.

I should really have merged or deleted this post a year ago 😃 Yeah, One of those users who posted the same question twice. 🙃 Never came back to answer a question in his other duplicate post. #rageposting

Thank you for the screenshot 👍 Yeah, I know, I already said that. After seeing that green line I was saying I should have. Moving on, that's horrendous that SteamCrave would configure those parameters. Change the battery type from (Lipo) Lithium Polymer, to Lithium Ion 18650 Ideally, you should use your actual battery specs and run the analyzer yourself, or search for someone elses curve for your battery. Upload settings to mod.

It's right there below the 'Power' I asked you to post a screenshot of your Mod -> Battery page. I only asked if you had changed it.

I hope all these comments relate to the screenshot you posted. If you look at my screenshot (3) you'll see my cold ohm raised from the live ohms (from .363 to .430). Yours are a flat line. So long as your coil is SS your live ohms should rise no matter what based on your answers. You can try swapping atty's, and the current on working on your Plus should work on the Pro. During the swap, check the positive connection on your atty's are tight, and wipe down the threads on your mod and atty with a qtip and some ISO or windex. Edit: I didn't ask you to click on the Power Set option, but if you looked at the screen you might've seen the 'low battery' warning based on your green line. And there are no values shown like in my screenshot (3). Edit 2: And can you post a screenshot of your Mod -> Battery page. Did you change the battery curve on that Plus?

So, I can recreate what you're saying. If I change profile, take a few puffs, pull the batteries, wait 10 minutes, put batteries back in, the mod does restart using the previous profile. This is what you're saying. If I change profile, take many puffs, let the mod idle (I dunno I didn't set a timer) pull the batteries, wait till after dinner, put batteries back in, it restarts to that changed profile (not the prior). I had never noticed before because that's not how I vape. I rarely change profiles once I have an atty setup, usually. I will notify @JacobEvolv here, but really the best way would be for you to open an official trouble ticket at the Help Desk.

Glad to hear you're enjoying your mod. 👋 No, there is no custom wattage or temperature curve based on seconds. But you can open a Help Desk ticket and give them your suggestion. Link in my signature line. I have never seen this or heard of this before. What settings change?

This can be one of the most difficult issues to find due to so many different reasons. Was this a new coil or new wire or a new atty? Was the coil checked for any hotspots before using, and screws were still a tight connection? Was the coil installed at room temperature? Describe the coil and Ω's. Using Atomizer Analyzer tell me how much the coil fluctuates over a minute. While taking a puff using Device Monitor (and the same 3 fields as below(1)), pause the screen (2), hover your mouse over near the end of the puff (3) and click for that vertical line, and post the full screenshot like I did.

Watch that video on DNAs, as some terminology will be new to you. Are you in a non TC profile such as 'watts' ? If you are, do what you'd normally do -> turn the watts down. The answer to that is No.⬇

80 watts all day on a single battery is a tall order. 🤔 The best way to estimate would be to use this. Put in your battery specs. https://www.steam-engine.org/batt

No idea about the puff count issue as it's useless to me, but not all Fire button presses are puffs, and those get cleaned up when plugged into your PC that also has escribe. (But I have heard this before) Here's a thought, what theme are you running? How can you tell when this happens and when does it happen? TC requires your coil and atty to be room temp when you start. By removing the battery 2 things happen. It allows the coil to cool more and it also forces your mod to reread the Ω's. But YOU should also re-measure the Ω's so it's written into the mod.

There is no wattage curve. But, in a Profile where a NON TC material has been selected you can do a BOOST PUNCH. It's a set 1 second slider. Effectively a hard normal soft like other mods, to give a coil that extra to start vaping quicker. You might want to turn your watts down a bit, with Punch at 5, and work the punch up or down. That might delay burning your coil. EDIT: What kind of mod? You've posted this in the 'Reflex' area

This is a 5 year old post. On all boards except the OG DNA200, no trickery is needed. Just use the Boost Punch feature for a 1 second proportional watts increase

Thanks for that @BlackFireDragon 👍 Up near the top left you'll see the voltages for each cell. Cell 1 and cell 2 are both discharged to such a low state that the board will not recover them (charge). IMHO you need a new battery. Cell 3 and 4 look like the standard shipping voltages before ever being fully charged and that low puff count and mWh usage (bottom right) and seconds would say it was like this when you got it. I'll just briefly address your last post as you directed it to @retird. The maximum charge rate on ALL 250C boards is 2A, no matter what you read. Batteries don't know %'s. Most Lipo's consider each cell at 3V as their fully discharged value and part of the built in board protections just will not charge a battery as shown.

I get the jist of what you are saying. Can you start escribe, then Device Monitor and a full screenprint with your mod plugged in. It should look like this.

If it's only the colors Start escribe with mod plugged in. Go to mod -> Mechanical -> screen type and try the other 2 options. Always Click Upload settings to mod after any changes. OR Start escribe with mod plugged in. Go to Help, Backups, and restore from a time before you did restore defaults. Always Click Upload settings to mod after any changes.