Wayneo

Are my battery stats normal? I would say probably Yes. I don't know the standing battery voltage (before firing), so when it drops to 3.88V while firing is anybody's guess. Using all the values in the 'current puff' area and simple ohm's law, it looks good to me. What kind of tests would you want to run? Before leaving the factory there are only a few functional tests done. A firing test at about 70% max power, where they look at voltage drop AND a battery test that your mod will charge. You can see that yourself. If you look at your Total Puffs there's 218. Looking to the left you see 'Since Reset' which shows 211. Over on the right hand side, just above the firmware version you'll see 'Resets' 1. Those missing 7 puffs were during testing.

That is the current latest. Look at escribe suite SP45.

M1 running 13.0 and SP50 INT started up just fine. She'll upgrade within 24 hours. Plugged in via a single USB A to micro.

@NavyChiefRetired My daughter has an M1, I'll see if she'll let me borrow it. Did it ever work on that Air, or was this a first time try? I'm going to load the latest SP50 INTL version.

I have no clue what that value is denoted by 'T' but if it's supposed to be TCR then it's Kanthal. NOT controllable. The minimum controllable material TCR is ~0.0008. Those 'cold ohms' also seems wonky. You're showing ~50% difference just on cold ohms, before heating. Thinking about how TC works, a increase from .31Ω to .70Ω is a whole lot different from .46Ω to .70Ω Here's what I'd like you to do WITH A COLD (ambient) SETUP. Start escribe. Find (left hand side) where it says 'Current Profile' Just below, click the Profile number from above. Scroll to the bottom of the page. Start 'atomizer analyzer'. Take a screenshot (link in my signature) Watch that for about a minute, and tell me the low and high values. Close that screen. Start 'Device Monitor'. On the left hand side enable/click these four (4)boxes Voltage, Power, Cold Ohms, Live Ohms. Find where that Pause icon is on the right hand side, just below the graph. Take a puff then pause the screen. Take another screenshot Post those 2 screenshots. Your 1st screenshot should look exactly like this.

Does this happen with all your battery sets? If yes, clean the battery contacts in your mod with isopropyl alcohol, as well as the top and bottom of each battery. The next time you use your external charger, You can put a piece of tape on the low one, or a dot from a sharpie. That's just to identify them Right now, using escribe -> device monitor, you can check/enable 'cell 1' and 'cell 2' then take a puff. Do those 2 lines show very similar behavior, or does 1 drop more? Now, unplug your mod, swap the same batteries around. Plug mod back in, and take a puff. If that 'low' followed the swap, it's the battery.

Yes, it is OK to use the USB to charge, especially with a single battery device. I charge mine at 1.5A, not 3A. In the grand scheme, using an external charger let's you see if you have any leaking into the battery area, and allows you to easily charge a spare battery.

Stealthvape (UK) has everything you'll need, including the Engineering diagram showing the solder points if you want to use any external buttons. Your fire button should be fine. The plastic holder over the top is probably what broke. https://www.stealthvape.co.uk/product/evolv-dna100c/ Analogboxmods has build videos on youtube and a website, but no 100C enclosures

Here is the theme I used. There are a few variations. I am not sure if the words are russian or ukranian. https://bit.ly/42uxCcN Here is another https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/554-roman_finder250c_rusecigtheme/ I would say there are at least 5 or 6 russian themes. You could try a search in russian while in the theme park. Good luck.

Seems to work for me. You'll understand. Your picture didn't identify the English that should have been russian, but there's the 'no atomizer' in russian.

That 'language' tab shows the standard informational/warning status messages. What kind of items are those 3 '?' marks? Are they (on your mod) labels, pictures, etc?

Did you get that firmware installed? Did the screen ever light up?

Hide (3 dots on the right) the duplicate posts, and tell me the current status.

Just checked on my 250C with the latest firmware, you're right. I could have sworn it was there. Go under 'Help' Backups, and load an early backup should fix it. Or, You might want to try an earlier firmware or two to see if it's there, update your mod, then re-install the latest. OR you can open a Help Desk ticket and wait for a fix.

Using escribe on your PC, For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacturer Then choose 'Mechanical' -> 'Screen Type' There are 3 choices. Change to a different one. Then 'upload settings to mod'. If that doesn't fix it, try the last option.

How did you make out @RogerMechMan? Didya ask nicely 😆 Did you get escribe installed? Did you update your mod(s)?

You would need to open up your mod and dismantle it in order to check. I don't know. You should still wipe it out (that 510 connector, the battery area, the batteries and battery connectors) with a cotton swab and Isopropyl alcohol. Do the batteries get hot? Failing all that you could open a Help Desk ticket and they will guide you. Link in my signature line.

So were they all simulated puffs? The only full printscreen (your first) showed it was an exact 2 seconds so I know that was simulated. Not weird at all. All this time wasted, except for seeing the live ohms touch. Now all those makes sense. When you puff, it pulls air over the mesh, juice back in to the mesh, all keeping/requiring more watts. And no comment on the above. Don't wanna try.

Sorry @Navi I have been of no help. I don't have that RTA but how high that mesh sits doesn't look right to me. I imagine it was as shitty as before. Too many moving parts for me. What I can say, is even if you do as suggested by @dwcraig1 I don't see anything changing for the quality of the puff. Look at your jagged red (temp) line. Your certainly reaching the temp, hella quickly and suffering the spiral of death on the watts (jagged green) line. While I'm here, not a single one of your puffs (in this entire thread) does it show your(purple lines) 'live ohms' line starting at the 'cold ohms' line. Which at least one should. If your main goal is to avoid the dreaded mesh dry hit, the 'Replay' option (using watts as the material type) should be a much easier option for you if you're willing to try it. Let me know and I can help with that.

When is this happening? While charging? Just sitting there, doing nothing and you're looking at some screen on your mod? Are the batteries getting hot? Did you have any leaking atty? Do you see any liquid in the battery area? Anything else relevant just before this started?

I only need DM screenshots after wicking and a bunch of puffs.

Welcome Roger 👋, as a long time Mac user I can safely say the Mac version is a simple install and relatively bug free. I'd suggest the latest INTL version. There's a link in my signature line.

No new suggestions from me. I'd like to see a couple puffs just like before, before you go changing your material profile a la dwcraig.

So that appears to be the correct depth for the mesh, and a similar routine to what I suggested. I still stand by my full way. And don't lock the ohms/resistance. Wotofo probably has no clue. As @dwcraig said, all SS are alloys (a chemical composition) with ranges instead of hard and fast rules for what SS316 or 'L' is. The 'L' for example just denotes low carbon.

What do you mean by 'somewhat better results'? Without even knowing your battery type in your initial post, especially with that vertical line, we being @dwcraig1 and I knew it was not an issue. That's so easy to spot we would have inquired. I don't know if Mooch ever tested those rewrapped cells for their Amp rating as they can be changed/swapped at any time. Even if they are only 15A batteries that is enough to support your shown watts as the load is shared between both batteries. Good to hear you validated my comment. Do you do that for every comment I make.