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Wayneo

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Everything posted by Wayneo

  1. I have no idea what you mean by that. You had both a 316 AND a 316L material type and you're switching between the two? Well, you have 2 solid 30 watt puffs shown. If your mod shows "OFF", it did that because your coil is not TC controlable(even if it is SS the ohms are not rising enough), and so it fires at the power you set and your mod has turned TC off.
  2. That looked like a TC puff (barely) to me. If you were to now click 'temp' and 'temp set' you should see the 2 red lines. I find it hard to believe you need that much power to get that coil to hit that max 425F. (actually it barely hit 300F when you ended the puff, but with your battery not being able to keep up). As your coil cools even more, that .313Ω (cold ohms) might drop even lower. I see what you mean about the amount of rubber, if anything you might want to let dotmod know these new coils are inferior.
  3. Just checked on my own. My first is in watts mode and you can tell the rise but it's not as easy. The second while in TC mode shows the rise better. This is an SS coil.
  4. Change to a TC (SS316) profile on your mod. Let the coil cool down (like 10 minutes) and ONLY enable 'Power' 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms'. Do another screenshot. Right now I saw no increase in the resistance between cold and live (and with all these different boards I believe 'live' always showed) but I could be wrong or it's not SS or it's not cold. Having said all that, Device Monitor says you've already done > 40K TC puffs?
  5. And what would that be? No DNA mod detects material type at all. YOU have to change that. If you post a full 'device monitor' screenshot, showing 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms' during a puff it would be more helpful. EDIT: Click/enable 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms' for them to show.
  6. You'd need to contact the manufacturer, or google if anyone makes aftermarket replacements.
  7. There is a conformal coating on the board to help protect the components, but ejuice can deteriorate a connection at the solder joints/connectors. Did you meter out the connections identified by Dwcraig like he suggested.
  8. What type of operating system? Windows, MacOS, or Linux? Try a reboot of your PC and try to plug in to your PC directly, not using a hub.
  9. That seems to be a cable or charging issue. Here's a link of others and what they did/found https://bit.ly/4cf3AiT
  10. I'd say contact your place of purchase, or the manufacturer of the external board. Good luck.
  11. So many different things are possible. Try to plug in to your PC directly, not using a hub. Try different cables.
  12. The 'max puff time' is in two places. First in the 'safety' tab, and the second in the 'mod' -> 'safety' tab.
  13. Just did a puff. Notice my cold ohms/live ohms. That's in Replay.
  14. Enabling every single checkbox only muddies the screenshot. At most power, power set, cold ohms, live ohms. 😃
  15. Live ohms never greater than cold. Not gonna work in Replay. I don't have either of those RBA's and also never encountered that issue in 6 months of using the 80C, even using Ni80 and Kanthal in Replay and about 6 different RBAs. I don't think it's a board issue, more a device issue. VC should definitely be interested to know or Evolv might figure out what's wrong and inform VC. One question, did you move 'warmth' to 5 or did it come like that?
  16. FYI, We can't see labels or filenames. And this answer should have been 'no'. The 'live ' ohms need to rise above cold. So my question is do you have any other rba's you can try? And what rba was that? Or, can you remove the boro, reboot device, put the boro back in, monitor some of your puffs and ONLY looking at live and cold ohms, do you ever see live > cold. If Yes, try to enable replay at that point.
  17. You're blazing the trail ! It makes sense so that as you change backround patterns/colours you can just leave your icons intact and choose a complimentary colour.
  18. Earlier, quickly, I used the replay icon and the fill and used them to overwrite my settings icon. Bottom right. I haven't created my own, but it worked for me.
  19. For the second time. Everything you can move or change is on that 'Display' tab. There is no dedicated 'theme designer'. You can change the texts, their placement, colors, backgrounds, warnings, logos, fonts. Maybe in the future they'll enhance the chip, but with a 'Replay' only board, even I don't see anything lacking/missing. If you don't like the feature set, as a long time user, you know you can open a Help Desk ticket with your suggestions.
  20. Can you not open the theme in the escribe 'display' tab with your mod plugged in? Everything you can move or change is on that 'Display' tab To answer your question direbtly, there is no feature lock in any theme for any board. If you give more details like type of system, someone might test it and reply.
  21. Boro devices can be so finicky between devices and some boro/rba combinations just do not work well together, It could be flushnut, integrated drip tip, your coil having some little skarf that touches, length of rba, connection to the positive, etc. Having only 1 rba limits any sort of testing. You could search around other forums for known problems but it's way too early to consider this a board issue. Unfortunately, neither of us own that device or rba. Or, you can open an official 'Help Desk' ticket. Link below in my signature line.
  22. Do you have any other rba's you can try? Or, check your coil connections. I don't believe it's firmware. Because your mod does not believe it's SS, so it's blasting you at the 60 watts you set. If I look back at your atomizer analyzer, your .27 ohm coil was reading like .37. How much does that value fluctuate say, over a minute when running atomizer analyzer?
  23. Locking ohms should not help, and the crazy hot hits are because of how YOU set the parameters. When you checked on the 100, did you check with the rba all put together, but not in the boro? Turn down the power to 30 watts, start device monitor (click/enable cold ohms and live ohms) and take a puff. Post a printscreen of that here. I believe it'll be the same as you have already described except no crazy hot hits.
  24. That's a helluva jump from a Vuse to a Hadron Pro! Buy some high mass inefficient coils like 2x24/32 fused claptons that will heat up very quickly with all that power on tap (especially with boost:punch), and cool down slowly carmelizing on your coils and cotton. There are some RTA's and RDA's for sure capable of high watt vaping, but they're not my style, so I can't offer any recommendations. Many customizations available with escribe Theme Designer or ready made themes available here. Colours yes, wallpapers, what's shown on each screen, yes, but no animations or games or points. The search bar works, so you could just search Pokemon as an example.
  25. Wayneo

    Mod resistance

    I'd at least move it 0.004 like Evolv sets as the starting point for all other boards. Changing or not changing it won't hurt anything. Random number 30 watts should feel closer moving an atty from the 100 to the 60.
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