Wayneo

So if you swap the battery and boro from the San to the Blaze is it still 3 batteries for one tankful? And what batteries are you using?

For questions like these you'd need to open a 'Help Desk' ticket. There's a link in my signature line below.

So far everything looks really good. 👍 See how during your puff, they're pretty much all equal in the amount they drop. While you are using the latest firmware, the US version limits new features for you. The 'INTL' has no limitations.

Dude, can you post a Device Monitor screenshot. Don't take a puff or do anything. I'm looking at your 4 cells, and if they're relatively all the same voltage (batteries have zero clue about any %). After it's done charging, same thing except screenshot while taking a puff, and I wanna see the puff. Here I'm looking if one cell is noticeably weaker than the others.

You will always get better results using proper/consistent Replay usage using a TC capable material (wire, such as SS) in an RBA. I have used chunky N80 (non TC) clapton coils in Replay successfully. I have used those Vaporesso coils also. At a minimum you need a solid positive and negative connection. It could be down to even the flushnut you're using, or the boro(tank) itself not allowing a great connection.

In just under 9 years of using DNA mods with built in batteries I have never needed to tweak/crimp my USB outer casing. The mere thought of using an external charger, removing the power and JST connector just doesn't seem practical to me. The odd time I had a loose connection, it was at the cable end.

Can you post a link for that battery, please.

Good idea if you can swap the base. Just checking that when you installed the new Material file you did tick the box for temp sensing. Good luck.

Your English has been better than most. Many times when vendors make SS coils like what you have, they use Nickel legs on the coil, then SS for the actual coil. If you take an old coil apart and see a tiny solder bump where they attached Nickel for each leg (so 2 per coil) we can get it to work but the actual temps will be off. OR I can PM you material file to try in TC.

I have no idea what you mean by that. You had both a 316 AND a 316L material type and you're switching between the two? Well, you have 2 solid 30 watt puffs shown. If your mod shows "OFF", it did that because your coil is not TC controlable(even if it is SS the ohms are not rising enough), and so it fires at the power you set and your mod has turned TC off.

That looked like a TC puff (barely) to me. If you were to now click 'temp' and 'temp set' you should see the 2 red lines. I find it hard to believe you need that much power to get that coil to hit that max 425F. (actually it barely hit 300F when you ended the puff, but with your battery not being able to keep up). As your coil cools even more, that .313Ω (cold ohms) might drop even lower. I see what you mean about the amount of rubber, if anything you might want to let dotmod know these new coils are inferior.

Just checked on my own. My first is in watts mode and you can tell the rise but it's not as easy. The second while in TC mode shows the rise better. This is an SS coil.

Change to a TC (SS316) profile on your mod. Let the coil cool down (like 10 minutes) and ONLY enable 'Power' 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms'. Do another screenshot. Right now I saw no increase in the resistance between cold and live (and with all these different boards I believe 'live' always showed) but I could be wrong or it's not SS or it's not cold. Having said all that, Device Monitor says you've already done > 40K TC puffs?

And what would that be? No DNA mod detects material type at all. YOU have to change that. If you post a full 'device monitor' screenshot, showing 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms' during a puff it would be more helpful. EDIT: Click/enable 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms' for them to show.

You'd need to contact the manufacturer, or google if anyone makes aftermarket replacements.

There is a conformal coating on the board to help protect the components, but ejuice can deteriorate a connection at the solder joints/connectors. Did you meter out the connections identified by Dwcraig like he suggested.

What type of operating system? Windows, MacOS, or Linux? Try a reboot of your PC and try to plug in to your PC directly, not using a hub.

That seems to be a cable or charging issue. Here's a link of others and what they did/found https://bit.ly/4cf3AiT

I'd say contact your place of purchase, or the manufacturer of the external board. Good luck.

So many different things are possible. Try to plug in to your PC directly, not using a hub. Try different cables.

The 'max puff time' is in two places. First in the 'safety' tab, and the second in the 'mod' -> 'safety' tab.

Just did a puff. Notice my cold ohms/live ohms. That's in Replay.

Enabling every single checkbox only muddies the screenshot. At most power, power set, cold ohms, live ohms. 😃

Live ohms never greater than cold. Not gonna work in Replay. I don't have either of those RBA's and also never encountered that issue in 6 months of using the 80C, even using Ni80 and Kanthal in Replay and about 6 different RBAs. I don't think it's a board issue, more a device issue. VC should definitely be interested to know or Evolv might figure out what's wrong and inform VC. One question, did you move 'warmth' to 5 or did it come like that?

FYI, We can't see labels or filenames. And this answer should have been 'no'. The 'live ' ohms need to rise above cold. So my question is do you have any other rba's you can try? And what rba was that? Or, can you remove the boro, reboot device, put the boro back in, monitor some of your puffs and ONLY looking at live and cold ohms, do you ever see live > cold. If Yes, try to enable replay at that point.