Wayneo

Ideally restart Mac and with a different cable plugged in directly (not with a hub) and a different port. Start escribe and try to upload firmware If it fails/doesn't work Tools -> Diagnostics -> Reboot -> Hard reboot -> Try upload firmware again Lemme know how it works out.

Well, voltages are a sorta tricky thing. See what you said here So after a puff when the cell has recovered (just sitting there) we'll call the standing/unloaded voltage, and cell 2 shows 3.1 volts, yes it drops power while increasing the amps, If that's what your cell soft cutoff value is. You should be getting a 'weak battery' or flashing depending on what you set in escribe. As soon as cell 2 hits the hard coded minimum volts the mod won't fire and you get a 'check battery'. I thought you were already at 3.98 volts this morning? I'd let it sit there and charge until it's balanced.

Yup, that's how balance charging works. Painfully slow. IIRC it'll raise 1&3 to like 4.21 then drop them to 4.19, raise 2 a bit. Rinse and repeat for a long time. From the top of my head, looking at the board battery negative pad, that 1st jst pin is a ground, then cell 1, 2, 3. But I'd wait for @dwcraig1 to validate that. It should show a lower voltage.

How did you do those 3 discharges down to 3.1volts? Did you look at cell voltages at that time, and do you remember what each voltage was? Being wired serially, IMHO only cell 2 would have been 3.1 volts. Cell 1 and 3 should have been that ~.4volts higher. Maybe use a multimeter and check each cells voltage manually (via the white jst connector) and report back. Is this all new wiring and connectors? Like @dwcraig1 already said, it could take days plugged in for the mod to rebalance, if at all. I really don't understand your apprehension with his idea. By using a proper 18650 charger it would follow the proper charging protocols and cut off for that 1 cell.

From back in 2014 with the DNA40 you did NOT need to lock resistance for TC. Actually there was not even the ability to lock. But with the other manufacturer implementations you did. You might want to lock if you have shitty build or atty, but the correct answer is to fix your build. I am guessing you believe your stomach issues and hiccups are directly related to the temperature of your vape, or you've been inhaling toxic chemicals according to dicodes. I wish you luck. So what temperature did they say that occurs so you know to stay below and safe? Right there in the Results section of that article, the very first sentence, it shows vaping is less harmful than smoking. There is a lot crap written by a lot of people out there. This site is owned by Evolv and if we volunteer moderators spewed shit to their customers they would replace us in a heartbeat. When I say stuff that does not jive with what you read elsewhere, you should also question those persons. And just as an add on to your question #2. The TCR of a material/wire does not change due to gauge, as even shown here at Zivipf (https://bit.ly/3EC3Mtp) every single material listed with a TCR value is the same regardless of gauge.

Go to Zivipf. Find their TCR value for your wire. Maybe it's the one that says 400. From my NiFe post I usually 12-15 watts. And do NOT block ohms on a DNA mod. You never need/should do that. After your pre-burn you should let the coil cool to ambient/room temp and re-measure the resistance. Like 15 minutes tops for your wire/material. Those can all be true depending on how you vape. But don't you already do that in VW? Turn the watts up/down so it's not burning and flavorful? Haven't heard or read that. Vaping damages more than cigarettes?

There is already SS316 on your mod. That is fine. Your NiFe48 from zivipf should say what the TCR value is. I have a post about NiFe here to match/help with the zivipf value https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/1570-6-nife-material-files-and-tcr-list-for-all-dna-mods/ Use that to create a custom TCR file for your mod. There is also an Inowire profile from someone else. I have no clue about authenticity or correctness. NOT TRUE at vaping temperatures. Notice I said low power. Whenever you see shit like that ask what temperature that occurs. May I ask why you are so against Replay? It's a much simpler way to get dry burn protection. MOST people don't even use TC the way it was intentioned. It has always been 'Temperature Protection', a limit your coil should not exceed. MOST think their coil should rise rapidly to the set temp and stay there.

Why do you say that? TC without Replay is the normal way. TC with Replay is a hybrid only few should ever use and brings complexity. Replay with no material curve is the normal way. Do you own those wires right now? Download the proper material curves into your mod, and use them in your profiles. 1. You can simulate a build in steam-engine. There is nothing special OR a spaced build the span of the connectors OR build to an ohm range. 2. None whatsoever. A thicker wire (lower awg) might be easier to coil. A thinner wire will heat up quicker. 3. Absolutely yes. Low power to burn off oils and make sure it's heating from the center out. Plus you get to see if it's got hot legs. 4. Snug through the coil. 5. No. Internally some things are different. The temp on any DNA should be the same. 6. Out of your 3, the NiFe so long as you use the proper TFR/TCR. Are you a new vaper? Are you new to DNA mods?

How long did they last when not using Replay? Why do you think Replay is causing them to burn quickly? Is this a new ejuice?

1 of these with a 3mm ID is .6. 2 would be .3

I primarily use SS in TC or Replay, and I could swear mine are all dark gray, my oldest in use since June 2020. Because coils heat from the center ... out, I/you can get caramel at the edges. And what's this supposed to mean -> 'or maxW/#B~>#Watt/2/3.09/.95' All I can say is these DNA boards have built in safety mechanisms and published specs (https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf) and the last 2 (I think I know what they are, and if I'm correct are wrong by your definition. That's why I ask 😉)

We haven't seen your settings, but we do know your reaching the watts you set quickly. From your title and initial post you inferred you were an old pro. It's your cotton that's singing/burning. Did it come with coils, and what were their ID? Maybe watch/read a review and follow their wicking and coiling. Even that can imply wicking. That's juice that needs to flow through that long tiny coil, and the more room for cotton the better. I'd say bigger coil, fewer wraps. Much fewer wraps would ramp up quicker and I'd suggest spaced coils until you get the hang of it. Dry burn them once built, like 20 watts to ensure they glow from the center out, and it'll burn off any machinig oils as well

All your mod, or ANY mod can do is apply power to a coil. That's it, that's all. In your DM screenprints, you have 2 Green lines. The 'power set' and just plain 'power'. Without boost, or preheat (your 1st puff of each type) you can really only tell when you start your puff due to the battery voltage starting to drop. Otherwise, it's a near vertical line. Near instantaneous reaching the watts you set. If I look at your title ".... slow ramp up times with any rebuildable coil in rda, rta, or rdta's" I don't see it from a mod perspective, do you? And no, 510 positive pins should always be snug. I think your problems are with that atty and coil. 10 1/2 wraps (21 total) and you're hoping your wicking's going to keep up. And with what .... a 2.5mm ID? IT'S NOT YOUR MOD.

Unplug your mod. Restart your PC and try again.

If you look at your 4 cell voltages when it 'cuts off' at least 1 of them is at 3 volts. You should also get a 'check battery' message at that time

Thanks for that. Changing the 'curve' in any way does NOT affect your working mod, at all. The curve will not give you extra battery life. It will only give you an accurate icon. Like I mentioned earlier, run the 'battery analyzer' once your battery is fully charged and all 4 cells are balanced. Lipo's usually have a long relatively flattish slope, then fall of a cliff. You can vape it right down to 'weak battery', knowing the 'check battery' is not far behind.

Can you post a full Device Monitor printscreen for starters. Also, at the end of the day, you ought to run the 'battery analyzer' to get a valid curve for it

I said a lot more than that. I will quote myself. You are certainly free to change anything you want, whenever you want. You should understand why you make a change. You can quite easily make unwise changes

You can use Boost - Punch for extra watts at start of puff. Punch is 1-11. Higher numbers mean more power, start at 5 and work your way up for more.

The Yihi SXmini delivers power (watts) in a different manner to DNA chips. The DNA's are straight line DC-DC while the Yihi chips pulse their power, called pulse width modulation (PWM). It might seem more powerful to you. Describe what you mean by more powerful for the SXmini. You should not be changing things you do not understand, and the change you made did NOT make it more powerful. You should watch a video or two to get a better understanding before making anymore changes.

So you straight up refuse to answer MY questions, and this will be my last post to you. But I will answer your question. You cannot do anything with mod 1 and mod 2.

And what are these mods? #1, #2, and #3