Wayneo

That 'language' tab shows the standard informational/warning status messages. What kind of items are those 3 '?' marks? Are they (on your mod) labels, pictures, etc?

Did you get that firmware installed? Did the screen ever light up?

Hide (3 dots on the right) the duplicate posts, and tell me the current status.

Just checked on my 250C with the latest firmware, you're right. I could have sworn it was there. Go under 'Help' Backups, and load an early backup should fix it. Or, You might want to try an earlier firmware or two to see if it's there, update your mod, then re-install the latest. OR you can open a Help Desk ticket and wait for a fix.

Using escribe on your PC, For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacturer Then choose 'Mechanical' -> 'Screen Type' There are 3 choices. Change to a different one. Then 'upload settings to mod'. If that doesn't fix it, try the last option.

How did you make out @RogerMechMan? Didya ask nicely 😆 Did you get escribe installed? Did you update your mod(s)?

You would need to open up your mod and dismantle it in order to check. I don't know. You should still wipe it out (that 510 connector, the battery area, the batteries and battery connectors) with a cotton swab and Isopropyl alcohol. Do the batteries get hot? Failing all that you could open a Help Desk ticket and they will guide you. Link in my signature line.

So were they all simulated puffs? The only full printscreen (your first) showed it was an exact 2 seconds so I know that was simulated. Not weird at all. All this time wasted, except for seeing the live ohms touch. Now all those makes sense. When you puff, it pulls air over the mesh, juice back in to the mesh, all keeping/requiring more watts. And no comment on the above. Don't wanna try.

Sorry @Navi I have been of no help. I don't have that RTA but how high that mesh sits doesn't look right to me. I imagine it was as shitty as before. Too many moving parts for me. What I can say, is even if you do as suggested by @dwcraig1 I don't see anything changing for the quality of the puff. Look at your jagged red (temp) line. Your certainly reaching the temp, hella quickly and suffering the spiral of death on the watts (jagged green) line. While I'm here, not a single one of your puffs (in this entire thread) does it show your(purple lines) 'live ohms' line starting at the 'cold ohms' line. Which at least one should. If your main goal is to avoid the dreaded mesh dry hit, the 'Replay' option (using watts as the material type) should be a much easier option for you if you're willing to try it. Let me know and I can help with that.

When is this happening? While charging? Just sitting there, doing nothing and you're looking at some screen on your mod? Are the batteries getting hot? Did you have any leaking atty? Do you see any liquid in the battery area? Anything else relevant just before this started?

I only need DM screenshots after wicking and a bunch of puffs.

Welcome Roger 👋, as a long time Mac user I can safely say the Mac version is a simple install and relatively bug free. I'd suggest the latest INTL version. There's a link in my signature line.

No new suggestions from me. I'd like to see a couple puffs just like before, before you go changing your material profile a la dwcraig.

So that appears to be the correct depth for the mesh, and a similar routine to what I suggested. I still stand by my full way. And don't lock the ohms/resistance. Wotofo probably has no clue. As @dwcraig said, all SS are alloys (a chemical composition) with ranges instead of hard and fast rules for what SS316 or 'L' is. The 'L' for example just denotes low carbon.

What do you mean by 'somewhat better results'? Without even knowing your battery type in your initial post, especially with that vertical line, we being @dwcraig1 and I knew it was not an issue. That's so easy to spot we would have inquired. I don't know if Mooch ever tested those rewrapped cells for their Amp rating as they can be changed/swapped at any time. Even if they are only 15A batteries that is enough to support your shown watts as the load is shared between both batteries. Good to hear you validated my comment. Do you do that for every comment I make.

All batteries will sag when you're drawing current from them. That amount varies between both battery types and rating, how full they are, power requested, at rest voltage, etc. IMHO your batteries are not even in question at this point. IMHO, yes. Brief, low watts to see a dull and even glow a couple times till there's no machine or hand oils left on them. SS gets damaged from long high wattage burning bright like sun. Following my directions using your mod are better in this regard.

Themes can definitely fuck things up royally and on the sly. There are some real gems and some real shitty ones. Same thing for material profiles. And that is why I always talk/say 'stock evolv' and Device Monitor. In the future you might want to include a screenshot of the Profile used. Just ensure the 2 'Replay' checkboxes are not enabled.(I don't think they are enabled) AND I hope you did not lock your ohms on any of this It would be in your best interest to run everything stock for now. BTW every TC controllable coil fluctuates with Atomizer Analyzer. So for me that is like starting from scratch with everything. For the second time TEMP PROTECT AS SOON AS YOU PRESS THE FIRE BUTTON IS A SIGN OF RUNAWAY OHMS, MEANING FIX YOUR BUILD. One last thing for future screenshots, please uncheck those 2 down in the Statistics area, I never asked for them and it muddies the display 🙂

Great first post @Navi and those screenshots are always helpful/key. 👍 Just a few questions and comments. I can tell you've been lurking by your inclusion of that extra vertical line on the first 2 puffs. Normally we like to see it near the beginning, lowest voltage point (like you did) for battery sag, and in the middle of an puff for abnormal working conditions. Usually with mesh, ensuring both sides are evenly and fully inserted are vital. Following that, a low glowing (10-15 watts to burn oils off, and ensuring it's heating properly), then sitting for 10-15 minutes so everything cools to ambient temp. After all that it is time to remeasure the coil ohms before or after wicking. You should 99% of the time answer 'yes' if the mod asks if it's a new coil if prompted. You mentioned 'support' twice. Was that Evolv support? You should never hard set the ohms. That value is what the mod has read. I think you meant .22Ω and .24Ω I have always vaped a tank or two in straight watts profile, (no boost) to get a feeling for what/how to setup my TC parameters. Can you do that and tell me what's a great watts for you? One last comment for the future. Can you drop/uncheck those last 2 boxes down in the Statistics area as it muddies the display.

Thanks again for those screenshots. So I asked; #1 is the KFX in watts - were you actually puffing? I see 2 puffs. In the first (in the first, left puff) do you see how the 'live ohms' crosses below the 'cold ohms' line. Off the bat that says the coil was still a bit warm. But based on the numbers shown, you were still around the ~250F range. I can see that maybe if you have a tight airflow or possibly super high nic so you're pulling gently. #2 and #3 I believe you did the TC puff #3 actually before the straight watts of #2 by the Total puff count of each. So for #3 is the KFL19 in TC - now the temp is ~360F using the stock evolv material profile. 17 watts was not to get to the 'temp set' so midway you relaxed the puff as shown in that red line dropping, as well as the live ohms, and the 17 watt limit never dropped. Puff #2 is KFL19 in Watts - Clearly shows ~360F using the stock evolv material profile. After saying all that you're no closer really to 420F. Can you tell me why you're dead set at vaping at 420F? You must realize that's the limit, hence the 'protected' from going over your limit. Although you can vape at the limit, it was never Evolv's thought, as you get a ramp down in watts and a weaker puff once at the limit. Looks like coil/atty issue to me, but you say it's all perfect on two attys. There is also Replay, whereby you using your SS or unknown wire can reach a puff you like using watts and 'watts' material, then enable/set Replay. That offers dry hit protection, but no temperature shown. Much simpler to get as good if not better results than TC. Let me know if you at least want to try that and I can help you.

OK. Thanks for that screenshot. Just perfect. Something does not jive. Are you sure you're using Stainless Steel? Still spaced, and did you do a dry (low glow)/burn to ensure it's heating up from the middle to outer edges? TC should not be hard or difficult to setup and get working. instantly temp-protected is also a sign of runaway ohms from your coil. In escribe, in that profile, down at the bottom you'll see 'Atomizer Analyzer'. With a cold coil can you tell me how much it fluctuates over a minute. It should only be a few thousandths. That 1st puff showed that your cold ohms are actually lower than measured, but at less than 200°F you should not even get vapor, much less 'insanely hot', so I agree with you on that point. Can you go to just your straight Watts profile, re-measure the ohms, and vaping in straight watts, find the value that feels good to you. Then post another screenshot like before, using straight watts. No boost. Do you by any chance have another atty that you can use, to test in TC?

Luckily for you, you don't need escribe to get it out of stealth mode. Here's the link for a downloadble pdf with all the non color key combos. Once you're out of stealth, you can check it all. Escribe not required. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71559-cheat-sheet-key-combos-for-non-color-mods/ I can only think of 1 DNA250 that allowed 2/3 batteries, so yeah, you're stuck with what you've been using unless you have a friend or library nearby.

There are very few things you need escribe for with these color chipsets/boards. There are some full featured themes that have just about all the options, mind you they are 20+ screens. You really only need any special 'material' files like NiFeXX or other TC capable that are not already on your mod. And the latest software update. Some have friends that will allow them to use their PC/Mac, or even a library. As far as a sideloadable app, WE might allow a link but doubt we'd allow the app itself. We'd need to have Evolv's blessing. Good luck in your quest. 👋

Welcome 👋 I'll start by saying you should watch a video or two about DNA mods (longer DJLSB Vapes) so you get a better understanding overall of these mods and lingo. I'd prefer to see a Device Monitor screenshot, please. Start Device Monitor. On the left, click these checkboxes only. Power, power set, temperature, temperature set, cold ohms, live ohms. Take a puff or two, pause Device Monitor. Post screenshot of full screen (link in my signature line)

So by using the datasheet wiring diagram, yes you'd solder in a 5 pin JST XH connector AND do your jumper for the missing cell 4. Here's a good photo https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69730-places-to-buy-dna-250c-enclosures-for-custom-builds/?do=findComment&comment=925064

No. That has never been a feature of any DNA board. 3rd time moving your posts out of the Reflex area.