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Let's see your 200's!


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that is sharp,seeing the screen in there with no holder gives me hope i can do something similar with my next squonk build.what is it thats between the board and screen?the white i see poking out is what im talking about.im waiting on my template so i can start drilling and cutting.i really dont like the box from FDV,its a lil wide but it will gimme plenty of room to work,thats for sure.67mm in width is maybe 10 - 15 mm to much.not a super comfy fit in the hand,for me anyways.may have to put velcro on the outside and wear a glove when vaping...lol.new fad.nahh not a micheal jackson fan. i do like the lil place for the bf feeding deal FDV came up with,it only works with his bottles though,so all my other 10ml bottles are a no go.also the door slides up and down so no magnets.but getting the 3/4 in opening cutout is gonna be super hard for a beginner like me.so idk if im gonna attempt to do that.since all the holes for firing,and up/down dont have to be super exact i think i can make it look pretty good just drilling the holes.still dont know if ima try to wire a diff fire button and not use the one on the board yet.IMG_20160430_100356.jpg although the other button placement does feel really nice up there.

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I epoxi resin my screens to the inside of mod then bring the wiered up board to the box clamped to the bench and then connect it in place like that. I hold the board in place with stand off rails bought from stealthvape, i have nothing but the loop of exess screen ribbon between board and back of screen.. if you havnt allready, check stealthvape.co.uk for small parts, allso modmaker.co.uk, both do overseas.. also wireing a seperate firing button may be adventagouse, because of the length of the screen ribbon looped over it will hit a pushrod button if you dont put a consiteener bend in it, a lot of people come unstuck and fracture the robbon, tightly folding it rathere than bending.

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i havent done anything to this yet,the other build i did the loop with the ribbon and just made sure it wasnt in the way of the fire button.idk what it looks like now,i havent had the chip out since i got the build done.i did order a chip holder from mamu and the ss buttons for it also.lotsa options for buttons out there,specially homemade stuff ive seen folks do.some stuff really nice and some....functional to say the least.but hey whatever works for whoever is doing it is ok by me.consiteener  bend? ...idk what word thats supossed to be but spell check didnt work...lol.i was real leary of even touching the ribbon from all the nitemares i heard from the dna 40 boards.

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Ok, urm swan neck..or "S" bend. when i was building 30s and 40s i realy mangeled screen ribbons up and never had any problems, its only been when building on the 200s and clearing that firing button it starts looking precariouse, still havent had an issue just cracked a glass to be different. Lol

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mc0676 said:

My last one.
It mount a Nanotech 0.95 mah 3s 25-50C.
It's printed in ABS with a Z-M200.
Size are: 48x94x25.
Totale space for lipo is: 32x76x21.
Here mine project: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1530128

Here some shots:













Very Nice! Love how you used Magnets for the Battery door and Faceplate!!
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The last one (3x 18650), here mine project: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1556748

I used this wiring scheme: https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67414-topic/?do=findComment&comment=906611

It's a like a wismec clone (LOL).

DSC_9088.jpg DSC_9090.jpg DSC_9091.jpg DSC_9092.jpg DSC_9093.jpg 

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Here's one of mine, started collecting parts a long time ago, just never got around to assembling this one until last week. Black Alpinetech 1590G+ (From before they started pre-cutting boxes), Mamu faceplate/screenholder, 12mm Mitec switch, Varitube 510, EC3 connector, ThunderPower 1350mAh (cause I had it laying around and the 1800mAh I had was a really tight fit that rubbed up against the 510).

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xLeGeNDx said:

Just picked this guy up yesterday.
Vaporshark DNA200


IMG_20160527_102239.jpg 

Start screen:

IMG_20160527_102504.jpg 

Using it with my 0.25 ohm SS Uwell Crown and my Octuple Clapton coil TFV4 mini.

nice. i like the mod and the band on the vape band. i noticed VS are making the screen cut outs without tinted plastic anymore. what's the build date inside the battery door?

edit......get a shark skin if you want to keep that rubberized coating on the mod.
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  • 1 month later...

So I got two Dna200's this week. The blue one is a Modcrate 1550P+V2 kit that I built, set up as a 133w with two LG HG2's soldered in series and direct to the board for USB only charging. Red one is a Hana V200 which I have wanted since day 1 they released em and just was able to do it.


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My very first DNA 200 and I love it! I'll never go back!
Orange Modcrate 1550p v2 box (love this box)
45c 1300 Glacier lipo
Fatdaddy's low profile copper 510
With a Zombie theme!
Using a Griffin tank single coil .38 ohm SS 316L at 40-45w. Still playing with settings trying to find my sweet spot. I replaced the board screws with headless screws and had to put 2 screws in the lid because the lipo fit so tight mags would not hold it shut.


Main welcome1.jpg Welcome secondary  2.jpg 
IMG_2597.jpg IMG_2601.jpg   


IMG_2597.jpg

IMG_2597.jpg

2a.jpg

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djvanlandingham said:

My very first DNA 200 and I love it! I'll never go back!
Orange Modcrate 1550p v2 box (love this box)
45c 1300 Glacier lipo
Fatdaddy's low profile copper 510
With a Zombie theme!
Using a Griffin tank single coil .38 ohm SS 316L at 40-45w. Still playing with settings trying to find my sweet spot. I replaced the board screws with headless screws and had to put 2 screws in the lid because the lipo fit so tight mags would not hold it shut.


Main welcome1.jpg Welcome secondary  2.jpg 
IMG_2597.jpg IMG_2601.jpg   




Looks great......I had a 1300mah lipo for mine but it was too thick. I went with two HG2's and its working pretty good. The Dna200 is a seriously nice board and the options is has are fantastic.
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djvanlandingham said:

Just built my second DNA 200 in the last 2 days again with ModCrate parts. ModCrate green Silo 1300 box with ModCrate HCP 510, Glacier 1300 lipo. Hats off to ModCrate for there service, shipping and prices. This whole building a DNA box mod is addicting! 


IMG_2602.jpg  IMG_2603.jpgIMG_2606.jpg 

looks real good. on the silo 1300 where you able to keep the jst plug and xt connector? or did you have to hard wire the lipo to the board to get it to fit?
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The Silo 1300 I had to hard wire it, not ideal but I couldn't find a way to mount and keep the connector it was a tight fit. I sized down the wire I don't know what gage it was but it was massive on the lipo so I mated 18g to the end to fit to the board not pretty but it is working. The orange 1550p+ everything fit fine with connectors but was tight I had to put screws in the lid to keep it closed. I used the same battery in both the Glacier 1300 specs 70x33x20 http://www.buddyrc.com/glacier-45c-1300mah-3s-11-1v-lipo-battery.html I will probably run this battery out in the Silo and find a more suitable size so I can go back to plug and play. I like that everything fit in the 1550p+ but I like the Silo 1300 because it's a little thinner so they both have +'s. Right now just trying to figure out why my battery's in both mods seem to lose charge while just setting? Still learning the DNA 200. I have only charged on computer and I think I read that even tho the mod reads 100% it really isn't because of the limitations of a computer charge. ?
 Trying to get use to the heft of them also and the no burnt/dry hits too. I came from a Kbox and CoolFire IV and Kanthal but I'm thinking I should have got on this wagon a long time ago!! LOL!

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