black lace

From a few days ago... /topic/65554-topic/?do=findComment&comment=885141 the turnigy flexi silicone seems to be very narrow compared to other brands, ive never had a problem with 22awg for switches and chargers 18 for batteries 18 for power out of pin holes and 16 & 14 off solder pads.

Yes i allso use the samsung chargers, (better the charger gets warm than mod) i bought a generic twin 1amp charger, i can only guess it must have shorted somehow and blew/burned somthing on the 200 board charger end, allso the only time i have ever blown a fuse is when using a cheap charger and vaped as a pass through and popped a fuse, twice over on different mods.

Doesnt that sound like a bad contact, (contact) being a word covering anything from a broken wire to simply fluf, grease, juice in/on a usb socket or male end.

I would allso change your cable and charger or alternative usp port, if your connecting it up and seeing intermitant charging, ive buggered a board up through using a bad charger.. also if you've resurected the mod after months of no use because of using all your other mods i cant see a problem with the battery just needing a freshen up charge and ballance, so no issue ..

i had a vicous ant clone that blew the coils, (thoes roundy roundy springy circuly things, lmfao) it was the posertive battery lead had shorted against the metal casing of the mod, so in effect, like you say above, acted like a faulty mechanical mod, its quite obvious you have suffered a short out and flashing up warranty means its beyond the repair of purchaser.. send it back, its knackerd.

Its pics of the board and back of fireing button you need! I've had one or two of the clone dna 30's self fire / self distruct, back in the early days, its allways been down to swarf or a particle causing a short at batteries or on the board and you can also identifie exactly where it happened because you will see the burnt up componant,,, flashing up warranty service is down to a componant failiure, there is info in the common problems section on this forum,,,, i wouldnt rule out being swamped with juice might cause an issue, but because the board does have a protective sprayed on coating and is flashing up warranty service i'm not convinced you have suffered a catastrofic on board fire/or catastrofic failiure, ifs and buts dont count for anything. i would suggest give it back to your supplier.

I can see that, fair comment, there is a lot of poor quality about these days and you just dont see the old style manual ajustable screw type centerpins (510 on mod) like on the mech mods available for swapping out.

Like you said on (f) at #3 a frail connection can also be at the coils or bad coil, good enough to take a reading as 'sound' but as soon as power is applied it starts failing at that point. Am puzzeled as to why a 510 mod spring would cause a problem, the board power out is connected to the 510 pin and not the spring that it floats on.

Although slightly differeng to the question, one of the things ive found with lipo over li-mn batteries is a shelved mod with 18650 or 26650 batteries do show the effects of a parasitic drain, when shelved for a few weeks, show a small percentage of loss on battery indicator, where the holding and volume of the lipo seems to go on and on with no loss indicated on the little battery icon on mod screen. Ive never bought a lipo that has taken moor than half hour to bring up to full ballance/charge. They are now using lipo batteries in the motor industry for their compact size, weight, superior holding and cranking power. But expensive.. not that i'm knocking the li-mn batteries though, all the mods i have with 18650 and 26650 have been running for at least two years and charged and drained hundreds of times like their capability claimed by the manufacturers and still running fine..

I have also broken one of thoes in the past, and also while removing the board, ,,they have a little copper winding inside and the black outer shell is very brittle, it will crush and chip very easily, evolv swapped mine for me,,,

I think it can get reall bad if he says it backwards while exhaling a straight lung hit, allsorts of things come through..

A mate of mine said he was vaping infront of the mirror at midnight and he saw a goblin run past..

I was thinking that if the fire button is jammed down and fiering the mod, will it not switch off after 15 seconds.. am not sure if there is an issue with the screen ribbon fold holding or snagging against the button and holding it.. other than that, I have had this happen with mods that have been opened up and swarf or a fieling or tiny piece of conductive material has logged against componant legs and shorted them out, across a mosfet legs will make it fire and also burn it up..

I can only suggest when buying anything of value allways try and get it as close to home as you possibly can and do a face to face transaction, then when things go wrong you can tackle it face to face...

I dont have this mod so forgive me if i'm suggesting what may sound like rubbish but for what you have described it sounds like you wont be reguly removing the batteries,, so why not strip out the sled and either convert to a lipo or tape together your batteries then solder and wire them together in series and either glue them in or place and pack them in, i remember when that mod came out and i think it was "xevape" put some shots of its innards up and said he was going to strip it out and convert to lipo.. and rewire because it didnt look duty enough, and i think you have confirmed that..