jrfhoutx

So I got my first print of your DNA75 (the rounded, single battery, non-squonk version), very nice design. I'm excited to build this out, but I do have questions. How are the battery contacts attached? I thought that maybe there was a slot that I was missing and that was why you used the contacts you did, but after printing, I see no way of attaching the contacts to the case unless I epoxy them in place. Am I missing something? I wanted to test out the printer I'm using, so I printed PLA, 200 micron, 15% infill, in vertical (except for the faceplate, I didn't think the screen opening would do to well without supports, and the software I was using didn't add any there when it modeled the print so I printed the faceplate laying face down). I may make a second print at 150 micron and a higher infill percentage, so that I can see what difference it will make, and to make it a bicolor mod. Here's my print after I cleaned it up a little bit.

Here's one of mine, started collecting parts a long time ago, just never got around to assembling this one until last week. Black Alpinetech 1590G+ (From before they started pre-cutting boxes), Mamu faceplate/screenholder, 12mm Mitec switch, Varitube 510, EC3 connector, ThunderPower 1350mAh (cause I had it laying around and the 1800mAh I had was a really tight fit that rubbed up against the 510).

How difficult was rewiring the 3S? I've been thinking about doing that for one of my batteries, just had no idea how hard it would be...

That single battery one is pretty sleek looking. I may have to find someplace to print that out. Nice work.

Not sure if this would be the right place to ask this, so if it's not, admins feel free to move it. I've seen some builds where the battery butts up against the threaded portion of the 510 connector, is this an issue or not? I ask because I'm finishing up one of my builds and the battery I'm using butts up against and touches this portion of the 510, and I wasn't sure if it's a problem I should be concerned about or not. I guess my concern initially was heat on the 510 up against the battery, but I see squonkers with plastic parts connected to the 510 and they don't seem to have melting issues or anything, so I figured I'd ask around here before I button everything up.

Exactly what I was thinking of doing. If it were a Marantz that's what I'd do, but those aren't exactly running high voltages or amperages, so thought I'd ask around here before I followed through...

So I finally had some time off of work to finish up my DNA200 and I was so close to completing it, all I had left to do was connect the battery and screw the lid in place. As I was going to connect the battery, the battery positive pad ripped clean off the board and took the fuse with it... Do I need a new board or is there any chance of fixing this? even something temporary just to get it up and running until I can get a new board in?

I have some #0-80 1/2" stand offs and some nylon #0-80 screws to fit them, you still have to cut them down to be the right length but they work fairly well, just JBWeld or epoxy them in place... @Willy - Nice work. Man, I wish I could cut a USB cutout that clean, always end up a bit too big... @blueridgedog - There are quite a few batteries that will fit a G box I have a 1350mah 25c that fits pretty well...

They're very similar, as is the 1590G+, the G+ is only slightly larger than the SnowWolf. sorry I don't have a regular CNC G box to compare, but I do have a G+ to compare against, here are a few shots for you...

Yeah didn't see the clone bit until after I had already posted. I suppose it would be a little easier than starting from scratch, but is drilling a switch and 510 and painting a box really that difficult? I mean spring another $10-20 and you can get slutlab's 3D printed case from shapeways, and then you don't even need to cut the window...

Not unless you did it with a clone, authentics run around $125-150, not exactly cheap...