black lace

From a few days ago... /topic/65554-topic/?do=findComment&comment=885141 the turnigy flexi silicone seems to be very narrow compared to other brands, ive never had a problem with 22awg for switches and chargers 18 for batteries 18 for power out of pin holes and 16 & 14 off solder pads.

Yes i allso use the samsung chargers, (better the charger gets warm than mod) i bought a generic twin 1amp charger, i can only guess it must have shorted somehow and blew/burned somthing on the 200 board charger end, allso the only time i have ever blown a fuse is when using a cheap charger and vaped as a pass through and popped a fuse, twice over on different mods.

Doesnt that sound like a bad contact, (contact) being a word covering anything from a broken wire to simply fluf, grease, juice in/on a usb socket or male end.

I would allso change your cable and charger or alternative usp port, if your connecting it up and seeing intermitant charging, ive buggered a board up through using a bad charger.. also if you've resurected the mod after months of no use because of using all your other mods i cant see a problem with the battery just needing a freshen up charge and ballance, so no issue ..

i had a vicous ant clone that blew the coils, (thoes roundy roundy springy circuly things, lmfao) it was the posertive battery lead had shorted against the metal casing of the mod, so in effect, like you say above, acted like a faulty mechanical mod, its quite obvious you have suffered a short out and flashing up warranty means its beyond the repair of purchaser.. send it back, its knackerd.

Its pics of the board and back of fireing button you need! I've had one or two of the clone dna 30's self fire / self distruct, back in the early days, its allways been down to swarf or a particle causing a short at batteries or on the board and you can also identifie exactly where it happened because you will see the burnt up componant,,, flashing up warranty service is down to a componant failiure, there is info in the common problems section on this forum,,,, i wouldnt rule out being swamped with juice might cause an issue, but because the board does have a protective sprayed on coating and is flashing up warranty service i'm not convinced you have suffered a catastrofic on board fire/or catastrofic failiure, ifs and buts dont count for anything. i would suggest give it back to your supplier.

I can see that, fair comment, there is a lot of poor quality about these days and you just dont see the old style manual ajustable screw type centerpins (510 on mod) like on the mech mods available for swapping out.

Like you said on (f) at #3 a frail connection can also be at the coils or bad coil, good enough to take a reading as 'sound' but as soon as power is applied it starts failing at that point. Am puzzeled as to why a 510 mod spring would cause a problem, the board power out is connected to the 510 pin and not the spring that it floats on.

Although slightly differeng to the question, one of the things ive found with lipo over li-mn batteries is a shelved mod with 18650 or 26650 batteries do show the effects of a parasitic drain, when shelved for a few weeks, show a small percentage of loss on battery indicator, where the holding and volume of the lipo seems to go on and on with no loss indicated on the little battery icon on mod screen. Ive never bought a lipo that has taken moor than half hour to bring up to full ballance/charge. They are now using lipo batteries in the motor industry for their compact size, weight, superior holding and cranking power. But expensive.. not that i'm knocking the li-mn batteries though, all the mods i have with 18650 and 26650 have been running for at least two years and charged and drained hundreds of times like their capability claimed by the manufacturers and still running fine..

I have also broken one of thoes in the past, and also while removing the board, ,,they have a little copper winding inside and the black outer shell is very brittle, it will crush and chip very easily, evolv swapped mine for me,,,

I think it can get reall bad if he says it backwards while exhaling a straight lung hit, allsorts of things come through..

A mate of mine said he was vaping infront of the mirror at midnight and he saw a goblin run past..

I was thinking that if the fire button is jammed down and fiering the mod, will it not switch off after 15 seconds.. am not sure if there is an issue with the screen ribbon fold holding or snagging against the button and holding it.. other than that, I have had this happen with mods that have been opened up and swarf or a fieling or tiny piece of conductive material has logged against componant legs and shorted them out, across a mosfet legs will make it fire and also burn it up..

I can only suggest when buying anything of value allways try and get it as close to home as you possibly can and do a face to face transaction, then when things go wrong you can tackle it face to face...

I dont have this mod so forgive me if i'm suggesting what may sound like rubbish but for what you have described it sounds like you wont be reguly removing the batteries,, so why not strip out the sled and either convert to a lipo or tape together your batteries then solder and wire them together in series and either glue them in or place and pack them in, i remember when that mod came out and i think it was "xevape" put some shots of its innards up and said he was going to strip it out and convert to lipo.. and rewire because it didnt look duty enough, and i think you have confirmed that..

I think i had this discution beffor, you know when you gently break in a kanthal coil with a warn battery and gently puls burst it to get it to heat from the center outwards and you can actually whach it heat to a cherry red from centre outward,, well because when using stainless and say titanium one wouldnt be aiming for thoes temperatures and not many of us have thermal image cameras to see whats going on with power and heat moving through it, but i'm absolutly convinced that if the preheat and wattage is set too high and too long on initial start up (breakin) on a new coil, one can actualy blow a hot spot (week point) and permenantly damaged what would have been a deacent coil if had been done slowly to start with. that was the way i had read what jaqwith was on about with turning the preheat right down on stainless, as a rule of thumb, so it doesnt get boogerd up in its first few seconds.

I remember he said that aswell, Best tip i can give anyone is allways buy from a reputable supply like **stealth vape** so one can be confident that whats on the spool is as the label says.. there was great debate , lol, about how we all achive the same results, high or low watts to hit set temp, i stay low ish and never hit temp protected, just a shave below with nice steady ramp up, each to their own, but my view is if a coil material is causing so much headach, i would be questioning have i been sold garbadge... and looking at my coil building..

Am on mobile do having difficulty on a small screen, try this /topic/66167-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894494 and also ther is a further link in that thread.. at #2.. hope there are some idears there for ya..

Back to the original post, (((unstable coil))) i think it was waynio did a small write up a few weeks ago, on how to pre heat and tune stainless, beffor finaly setting it to work,, 100 degrees extra heat to get a decent draw is a text book example of an unstable coil material, because it hasnt been properly heat treated.. the board is proving that it works, its the coils that are haywire..and confusing the board, it only works on one programed csv file at a time, so the coil must be sound,,, ( stainless proves to be critical)

I wont look it up being on mobile but i would think that the soldering an end user / mod builder is concerned with is non critical, (tinned wires to pre tinned tabs) not componant legs to copper foil circuit boards. No disrespect to anyone in a pannic over soldering to the board but a competant person would get by with a copper clout nail sticking out of a wooden clothes peg, most of us have blow lamps left over or a cooker hob for heating and tuning kanthal wire and coils. If someones capable of assembling a mod but dont know how to solder i would guess it would take them 15 minuts to learn.. and have a little practice first... (You may find using liquid flux will capulate up fine stranded wire when tinning up) perhaps better used as a wipe on a damp cotton bud or deliverd through a flux pen.. personaly i think the most difficult thing about these boards is slotting in the screan tab, and that too is dead easy.. when i was building the dna40's i never even knew the locking bar could be pre lifted, i would just push the tab in and the bar flip up to indicate tab located and then lock it down..

Dont know mate, never heard anything like no clean flux.. but i have got a dirty girl friend and i did go through a faze of thinking that grub screws where made from caterpillars, it was a long time ago and i was small in thoes days..

I prefer 60/40 lead/tin flux cored 5mm onto a fine pointed tip and also use aditional flux because i get a nicer flow and a decent blob, silver seems too thin and washie for me and quickly becomes porouse on overheat. The silicon coated wire at 14awg, the silicon withstands heat better so doesnt need to be as thickly coated, so the whole thing would be say 2.5mm rather than 3mm plastic coated,,, you only have a very short run from board to 510 connector and only short seconds pulse bursting on fireing so will be ok,,,, i would also recomend the wire that retird has found you, its super flexible fine stranded and a pleasure to work with.. the stuff you have found is poor for this job, you wont see many decent electronic mods with that in them.. the last two mods i built using 1300mah 60c max burst lipos carried 14awg terminal wires that needed cutting down, so i used thoes off cuts to power the 510. (You will find that - that wire is the same as retird recomended) If your building your own mod and your not a noob as you put it, i would suggest you use a lipo as board is better for and unleash its true potential, why build something that is only going to run on half engin,,,

Your second paragraph, what ive done when i cant get device monitor to show temp in real time is disconnect the mod and check coil is secuerly clamped and also strumed it with a small screwdriver, ,, For all your info well described you dont say what atomiser your using.??

Should do, its about the wire not the power of the mod..

Thanx our mate, i'll put that in my little data bank, all the best to ya...