BillW50

Some Odin DNA250C and DNA75C, the 510 mounting screws on the inside can come loose. Thus the resistance starts reading higher and higher in time.

What mods are these DNA in? Would the DNA75C be in an Odin Mini perhaps?

Of course we are interested. 😀

Point well taken @rcamarda. Although I don't know if it would make a difference for most DNA users. What I mean is I believe most DNA users would change how their DNAs came anyway. I, like many others change it to our liking with EScribe when we first get them. And that might be the first and last time we connect them to EScribe. And the manufactures of DNA mods also share responsibility. They should tweak the DNA settings to their mod and to the best user experience. After all, you would think manufactures would want their mods to be ahead of the competition, right? And some high end manufactures does in fact do this. They add custom themes and more useful wire types. But most don't. They just wire up the board and shove it out the door unfortunately. And yes, I could see how a settable TCR profile could be useful. But not having access to the schematics and to the firmware source code, I'm not sure if the current hardware this would be possible. It might require more board memory or something. Another problem facing Evolv about making any changes whatsoever, is for the US market they have to submit a whole new PMTA application. Which is very time consuming and expensive to prepare. And the way things are going at the FDA, it would most likely be denied anyway. Until the government accepts innovation, users are kind of stuck with what we already had before Aug 8, 2016 unfortunately. 😟

I also forgot to mention what is the version of firmware on each 250C? You can see the version on the bottom right on the Device Manager. Starts with SP something.

I've seen this on DNA75C, 100C, and 250C boards. Can't recall seeing it on non color boards, but it might be there too. Some chargers stop charging briefly because it is the only way to get an accurate battery reading. I never measured it on how often it does it, but every few minutes sounds about right. It will also stop charging if you fire the mod. As it is hard on the charger if you are firing and charging at the same time. But that one won't charge batteries at all? Or it does, but takes forever?

Those only have been around less than a year and are still covered under Evolv's one year warranty. It's those Abyss Stormtrooper DNA60, right? https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Rebel probably does checkout each mod before shipping. Apparently something happened between them to you, unfortunately. Sending it to Evolv is another option if Rebel gives you any trouble. Hopefully I am not mistaken, but I believe Evolv has someone in the UK to handle warranty claims. So if you are in the UK, that would be easier, no? https://www.evolvapor.com/warranty

Oh... it isn't using an early beta firmware that had that same problem. Does it putout say 20w if it is set at 20w? I am wondering how low you have to set it before it puts out the correct wattage. The battery is fabulous, firmware is fine (SP45.1 INT)... the only thing left is the board.

The bottom right, it says what firmware version you are running. I can't read it, what does it say?

What is the make and model of the battery that you are using? Under EScribe's Device Manager, does the cell voltage drop like a rock when you fire it?

Sounds like soldering flux. You use soldering flux with heat and solder as it cleans the connection while soldering. Although once the solder cools, it should be removed with alcohol or electronic cleaner. Leaving it on can eat away at the connection with time. Most solder has a small amount of flux too. Still should be cleaned afterwards.

I saw this error once just recently. Which mod did yours happen on? Anyway, I pressed the up button and it disappeared.

Yes, the Sony VTC5D will work fine.

Take your pick. You're looking for 25A or better. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/

Mooch rates SONY VTC6 cells at 15A, not Sony's 30A rating. Thus they are good for about 45 watts each. So two of them, that is 90 watts. If they have been recharged many times and/or are years old, of course then even less than 45 watts each. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/bench-retest-results-sony-vtc6-15a-3000mah-18650…a-fantastic-15a-20a-battery.846895/

Very common problem among high wattage vapers. Either one or both batteries can't supply enough current for the dialed in wattage. Thus the board only allows the wattage that the batteries are capable of.

You didn't mention what kind of wire you are using. Looks like some SS type to me, maybe SS316L. Higher resistance cold than hot sounds like you are using contact coils (non-spaced). If true, the wraps (some) are likely shorting when warm. Some use spaced coils to avoid such hotspots. The higher room temperature reading is due to the thermals (Case Analyzer) are not calibrated. Which isn't surprising since Dovpo and some other manufactures don't bother doing them and just use Evolv's default values. You might find someone who has done it for the Odin Mini already and just use those values. Another thing to consider, while I haven't heard anything about the Juggerknot MR, but some atomizers are not stable enough to do TC well. For example Kayfun recommends do not to use resistance under 0.4Ω (according to PBusardo). But many do it anyway. If an atomizer uses gold plating for electrical contact, there is a good chance it is likely just fine.

Yes, many of us noticed this. The atomizer analyzer on the DNA100C won't read less than 0.10Ω. Evolv knows about it, but never gave a reason why that is.

https://www.protovapor.com/product/replacement-dna-screen/

I didn't know you had a hot air station. You could try to heat it up until the solder melts and then let it cool and give that a shot. If an internal layer is fractured, the heat might mend it too. But the latter usually doesn't work for long.

Well @thomasck, I would measure on the board with batteries installed and measure the voltage between B- and B+. That's both cells in series. Then measure B- to that one point alone around of center of the balance connector (orange wire in the drawing). That reads one cell only. Then measure from the same point on the balance connector to B+. That reads the voltage on the other cell. I'm guessing they will all read correctly, but you have to rule it out. Now if the above reads fine, then it is the board. I would guess the surface mounted BMIC (Battery Management IC) BQ76925 has a connection loose or has failed internally (probably a fractured layer). Without the equipment to deal with it and without experience using it, either hope Evolv will take pity on you or you need another replacement board is my suggestion. I wish I had better news.

I don't know why you heard it isn't recommended to jumper those two points. Since they came from the same spots on the battery. And many DNA mods are wired just that way anyway (I'd be surprised if the Triade isn't wired that way). And those four connections between the B+ and B- is known as the balance connector (lipos usually has a balance plug on them). If you add the jumper (bridged) for the B- and the closest balance connector connection and do the same on the B+ side, which also has two closest pins bridged (jumpered) for a two cell DNA200/250 mod. If you bridged both ends, you don't need the wires on each end of the balance connector contacts. Since they are the same points as B- and B+ respectfully anyway. Nor does the balance connections need be be heavy gauge wiring either. Since they don't carry much current. If you bridge them like you did for the Triades, it really shouldn't fix or correct anything since your wiring does the same thing. Unless the one or more of the balance wiring had a break somewhere. Then bridging would correct (fix) it. Do you have an ohm meter? If you do, those two spots you want to bridge should be 0Ω (shorted) to B- and B+ respectfully. If they are not, there is a break in the wiring going back to the battery.

I might be mistaken Mark, but I believe if Evolv changes anything, they have to submit a whole new PMTA. I too noticed this with flat wire and with flat mesh too. Although to me, everyone vapes too hot. So I vape at lower wattages and temperatures and even round wire lasts a very long time. Sometimes I vape my Reflex a lot and sometimes I vape something else. But I had the same pod in mine since August of 2021. I vaped 4038 puffs and went through 20.6ml of juice since then and the pod is still fine. I just turned the boost off and the wattage down.

Wow! Nobody said anything yet? You can try installing older and newer firmware for the DNA200 (Tools -> Apply Service Pack). Some may be all ready on your computer. But I don't think it will help at all. Don't install anything except for the DNA200. Also what model is this mod? As some have an extra board like the HCigar VT133. Also what kind of batteries does the mod use? Lipo, two 18650, three 18650, etc.