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If you watch p busardo, John was on the show for the 75c board and insinuated that a bigger "c" board is coming, but said he can't really talk about it.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that you watch This video. The important stuff starts between the 15-16min mark. As my guess is that you don't really understand how temp control works.

There is quite a bit of software r&d still going on with the 75c, so I would presume that they want to get things fairly well ironed out with it before they drop the 250c. The headaches of trying to rework programming for more boards simultaneously would be horrible

But some things have changing resistance like a motor. Load can change resistance.

In complete and utter boredom with a need to build something from stuff I have lying around. I'm trying to build some things that would make my day to day life more fun, and would like to use a dna instead of a mech. Is there any way to make a dna device (60, 75c, or 250) output a specific voltage instead of wattage, and it looking for resistance? I'm looking for <5v and maybe 2a at most. The 15-20 sec time limit is useable. You can already get a 510 flashlight. So why not make other things, mostly novelty, but I know of several things I could make that would be handy in the automotive business. any help would be appreciated

@VapingBad what do you recommend?

To figure amp draw from "c" rating take mah × c ÷ 1000 = amps. I don't have a triad, so I'm not familiar with the available space, but using a lipo in that mod would require removing the battery sled, and doing some soldering of connections on the board. Mostly I was clarifying the post above mine. Also, personally I'd stay away from MaxAmps batteries based on personally experience mixed with Mooch's tests of their batteries. They EXTREMELY overrate their cells

The idea is less voltage sag. Btw a 2000mah lipo with a true 25c rating would be good for 50A continuously.

Adjust the curve on the mod tab. One of my dna 250s is set this way cuz I'm too lazy to run battery analyzer on it. I adjust all of my dna's to reflect 4.16 as 100%

In a vaporflask clone with charge board and no daughter board

With 2 wires, can I run 20g-22g instead of 18g? Space is at a super premium w/o a daughter board

I always set my 100% point on my csv graph to 4.18 or 4.16, this gives me a couple less puffs, but can increase cycle life by quite a bit according to mooch

I assume that the chargeboard that comes with the 60 isn't supposed to show any charging data in device monitor?

going through pinout again, and noticed that B- and GND are connected internally

putting a dna 60 in a vapor flask clone, and I'm sure that I can just hook the B- and the GND together, but checking first. The daughter board was broken in the device when I got it, so it had to go by the wayside. Next question is, should I run a jumper from B- to GND, or run 2 separate wires from the solder tab on the 510? This mod uses the case as the B- Thanks in advance

My phone is stupid... Anyway my last reply was supposed to say that the dna 250 is 97% efficient because of no boost circuit. Boost circuits are 65%-85% efficient, which means that 15%-35% of you battery Wh is wasted as heat

The advantage of this boost is that it can not be used in

The dna250 doesn't have a boost circuit. You would have to make it into a 3cell mod to get the 9volt limit

I'm going to presume that you've tried different usb cables?

Have you either tried it on another mod, or hooking it up to escribe and check atomizer analyzer?

Thanks, I'm surprised that they offer a current meter when it should have had a charging, charging complete, and safety charging indicator or message

So, I'm waiting on my usb multimeter, but the reason that I ordered one is that my 75c reports .750 amps charging. I have tried 6 different cords, 4 charge heads, and 3 different computers (all usb 3.0). It takes a bit to charge my 20700, Plus the board is advertised as having 1A charging.