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The fill cap will work on the plus pods, and the buttons still work, but that's it now. The new unscrewing tip to hold the coil in really hinders the drip tip thing. I ruined 2 pods trying to get the tips apart to make something work.

I'm currently building my 4th 250c, and thought about wireless charging. My enclosure has more spare room than any mod that I've built so far, so I've been thinking of useful features that I haven't used yet. It will have a 4s 1600mah Turnigy nano-tech. The battery fills my vertical space, but leaves about 10mm between it and the door, and 18mm between it and the chipset. I've also contemplated a fast charge port via external bms, but not sure how well either would play with the dna. In the next day or two I'll try to upload some pics as I'm still waiting for the 250c to actually arrive.

@JaI Haze, I know on the dna 60 when you switch from small screen to large screen firmware or vis versa, it completely resets all stats on the chip. IDK if any of the other chips do the same when you swap firmware say to or from the International firmware.

It's definitely a bad board. Unfortunately I must have stressed the ribbon cable in the change over, as it doesn't work. The mod I took the board from was a small screen. Flashed to regular firmware before hooking up the large screen, but it still doesn't work. The mod fires correctly at 50w, which is higher than I vape. Also, unless the board totally resets to like brand new when you do the change from small to large, this mod was never used?????

I found a 60 out of a plastic mod that got broken that still works. I'm going to swap it, and see what I get.

SeeYes, I do. Also here are 2 pics from last night, I got busy and didn't get a chance to post

That was my 1st test with the meter, I just figured it more relevant that the the connection between the wire and the solder holes was good. All power wires are 18g silicone wire. When I get home tonight, I'll take a some pics of the wiring.

I've been messing around with my dvom, it has min-max capture. I'm starting to suspect the board. When device manager is showing input voltage is dropping to 3.11v, the dvom shows 3.744v at the opposite side of the solder holes as the wires are soldered. I used to have either an extra 40 or 60 in a box of stuff somewhere, I'm going to try and find it and see if it works better.

Just adding another, less cluttered device monitor pic

@Retird, good catch. I haven't looked at the 60 pinout for a couple years

The fire switch is a grounding switch, so you may be able to supply b+ to the hot side, and use the external switch signal pad to ground the led.

So a couple years ago I swapped a dna 60 into a Hana v4. I got about 10k hit count and it started cutting out and making weird buzzing sound when firing. I stuck it in a drawer and ran my silo 75c. Fast forward to Saturday and my silo either got lost or stolen while we were in town getting groceries. I'll try posting a short video of device monitor while firing. I resoldered the power in and out connections, tried 3 different batteries that work well in other devices. I haven't Vaped over 45 watts for years, usually 37-40.

Implemented. I made it a smidge to tight on the I'd, and it will probably have to be printed with a .2 nozzle @ .1 instead of a .4 @ .1

@ArminF Are these what you were thinking? It's printing now

I probably should try to sell these, but with a full time job, plus a small vending company, plus a family I only have limited time to design parts. I've learned to be quick and dirty on the design to fit in my time frame or I forget about it if I try to drag it out over several sessions. I suffer from A.D.D. and C.R.S. Ooh shiny, I forgot what we were doing Kremit

AFC tip O v4.step

@ArminF This is what I came up with based on your design. I narrowed it up to make it more uniform with the fill cap, and not to impede removal of the cap. Your tip is the last 2 pics

Never shipped to Europe, but with a trinket of little to no monetary value, it shouldn't cost much. I could probably ship a small box or padded mailer full for $10 or so. I do use fusion 360, I was able to download the step file that you attached

I'll try printing it out tonight. It would be a pain to adjust airflow, but I leave it wide open anyway. My long tip is 15mm tall and 10mm diameter.

Yes, the tank caps seal, I designed them to use the factory oring. As far as using the drip tip for the AFC, not something thats very easy to do because of it's design. There's knurling above the AFC that holds the drip tip on.

Your iPad charger is probably only charging the mod a .5amp, need to use a meter to know for sure. I know that some of my chargers definitely take longer than others, even though they are all rated between 2.1a to 3.4a. I actually have a cheapo Walmart charge pack that charges it the fastest, but the mod runs warmer than I like when hooked to it.

Is anyone doing/interested in custom buttons, tips, fill caps for the Orions? All parts shown are using Form Futura Gold HDGlass (petg)

Who else thinks we need replay on the 60?

The battery that I used in my gxl2 build that I posted on the 1st page 4s 1600 is available in US stock, and Global stock for those across the pond

@DkPatriots Top right corner of the second pic you quoted, and then the back lip on the door. Don't have any pics on my phone, and away from home for the weekend. Only thing I would do differently is to use 3 screws instead of the magnets to hold the door on. On a side note, I get better battery life on a 2000mah 2s venom lipo than I do from 2 30Qs