iambyrdman

So it will only pre heat with 100 watts? Not continuous? Again, not that it matters because I still can't get it apart....

Yeah, it's printed out on my work bench but as noted, does not give specifics about 1 cell. I've heard several people in the know say the board will do 100 watts per cell.

I don't think it's going to matter because I can't get it apart either. Dremel might work but might not be able to reverse it.

I was planning on sticking to the 1. My understanding is the 250c will 'do' 100w with 1 battry. Am I wrong?

I was thinking about taking apart my Thrtion 75 Watt and replacing the board with a 250 to get another 25 Watts. Thoughts. Something basic I'm forgetting about maybe? Other than DJLsB Vapes couldn't get it taken apart....

Never mind, found it in the build guide.

I’m Building a 4 battery pack (2S2P) but I don’t know where to connect the leads. One from positive, one from negative and one from between each two cells. (like the picture on the left? https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/lights-night-riding/1003861d1437632257-review-4-2s2p-6-cell-2s3p-hardshell-waterproof-bicycle-battery-packs-gb-lipowiring-1.jpg) Where does each go on the board? And correct me if I’m wrong and I guess this answers were negative goes, but the last 3 pins would be connected together as ground, right?

I got it to work out... My iron does get even Too hot and I am using lead free. I didn't try spot welding this time but the idea makes me want to try it next time. So wish me luck on a quick sale. I'll list it on eBay for $300.

I do it like "Analog Box Mods" on YouTube does but they don't stick. My iron is plenty hot. Maybe too hot at times.

I know how to Solder! But I have built 2 other devices and now I'm on a third I plan on selling am am having the same problem I did on the first two. The Evolv board just does not want to except solder properly. I get a little on the iron tip and drag it across and it looks like it's bonding. However just a touch of pressure a it pops right off. Nothing attached to the board. When I search for, "Cold Solder" I'm not the first person to bring it up, except the results are usually after the build is finished and they're having technical problems. What gives? Anyone else see this? It's frustrating. Fire button takes just fine and so does the balance. It's just the 4 primary flat connections. I just bought a spot welder, too bad that wouldn't work because I love how good it works on batteries! Actually, maybe tack a piece of nickle to the board. Those nickle strips Drink Solder! I wonder....

Seems even more out of hand than last try. Why isn't it stopping at set temperature?

I'm using SS316L. I usually build coils where I'll spin more than one wire together but I have found them to be less stable. However I get the same results out of simple round wire builds. At this point I'm wondering if I'm getting bad wire maybe. I should break out an out Uwell Crown and see if that changes anything. It's approved for Replay is why I'm thinking that.

I'm just having a bad luck run. Now this one I built isn't cutting off when it hits temperature...

This is a device I built so I think I know how it works...

I'm getting No Temperature Reading on a Peranormal 250C. Tried restoring defaults. I'm using 316L with this file ~SS316L~.csv . Any thoughts? Here's Device Monitor showing 3 puffs