Spector NS5 RD

If the menu is freezing try re-flashing the firmware. What FW is the board running? If that doesn't work and you know your connections are sound, open a help ticket from Evolv's website.

Off the top of head, I'm pretty sure the Billet Box 60w comes with the DNA 60. If the description says "Evolv DNA 60" then it would come with the DNA 60 board. If you're unsure, just email Billet and ask them.

Hard to tell from the pics but everything "seems" to be OK. No components tombstoned or knocked off. I do see one resistor, (maybe a pulldown?) circled in red, that either has a hole in it or it's just the conformal coating messing with the picture. No idea if it has anything to do with voltage monitoring. Try cleaning off the flux residue left over from your soldering with some iso alc. More than likely, you'll just end up RMA'ing the board in the end. Evolv's warranty/customer service is the best around PERIOD. Good luck!

For the board to consistently read the same difference between all three PSU voltage inputs, i would venture a guess as to a hardware issue. Possibly a knocked off res or cap or damaged. Nick answers the help tickets, he'll get it sorted out. I know, it's a bummer. At least your design is modular, though. One last thing. If you open EScribe, Click "Help" at the top of EScribe........"About EScribe" then click the word "EVOLV" 7 times then open up Device Monitor. You should now have a Debug menu. What does the "Bandgap" read? EDIT.........Never mind, I guess James took out bandgap from debug . 🤔 huh, weird. In the older 200/250 monochrome boards bandgap readout is a voltage reference.

I joke around, if something i type sounds snarky, just laugh it off. Ya, you seem you have the correct settings in EScribe now. What happens if you toggle a different input voltage? does that change the pack reading? Just trying to figure out if this is a board problem. Can you get you DMM probes on the actual input pads on the 250board? Make absolute suer your getting the full 12v. Also make sure you're getting the full 12v UNDER LOAD. If all else fails, take the board out and look around for missing components .......knocked off resistors, caps, IC's etc. Then just RMA the board back to Evolv for replacement. You running the latest FW?

"Bro, whats with the terminal bus?" "total overkill brah." 😁 One question and forgive me if i missed reading it in your 3 page description, do you have the board set to "power supply" ? Then you select the input voltage 9-12-15 volts. This drop down menu is in EScribe under the Mod section - Battery tab. EDIT......yep i missed it. OK you do have it set to PS and 12v did you upload the settings? what happens if you select 9 or 15 volts, then upload? the pack voltage change?

This is a curve for 3 Sony VTC5A cells >>>>>>> https://forum.evolvapor.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=233534 Cell Soft Cutoff >> 3.0v Wh capacity >> 26.219

You need to apply power to the board before EScibe will see it. (4.20v to batt neg and batt pos pinouts ~ 10 and 9, respectively). You have the data part covered corretcly now you just need to wake the board up with some juice. Once the board is powered on, then connect the USB cable to EScribe.

If the cells are removeable, you can select "removeable battery" from the drop down menu in the "mod-battery" tab of EScribe. This replaces the CSV, gas gauging style of predicting battery life to simply looking at battery voltage. This way you don't have to worry about running battery analyzer or having the correct CSV.

I would love to own something like that, very nice.

Unless you want to make the enclosure yourself, you would be relying on either a Hammond / Alpinetech style enclosure or a 3D printed style. Once you pick out the enclosure, then you can start gathering parts..... squonk compatible 510 squonk bottles silicone wiring for baord dual 21700 sled (make sure enclosure allows for this size) board mounting hardware, sled, screws, button actuators Where to get various bits and bobs....... Shapeways, Ebay, Varitube, Fat Daddy Vapes, Modcrate, Protovapor, Creme De Vape, Stealth Vape...... are a few good sites for parts. Basically just Google the parts you're looking for. You'll find all of the pieces eventually.

If you've tried multiple USB cables and power sources, yes, i would say the USB port has failed. You could look inside the USB port and look for bent or misaligned pins.

I know my Xvostick DNA 40 uses the chassis as the Batt-GND connection to board. I would say poor connection or corrosion between board and cell.Unless Chel changed the way they wired the Xvostick's, i'm 80% sure the Batt-GND is made by relying on the 510's GND connection. What happens if you clean the battery cap threads and the brass positive pin at the bottom of the cell cavity? Don't be afraid to snug the batt cap on nice and tight. Doing all that i just mentioned, does that lessen (even a little) the voltage drop? If not, It would require opening up the mod to find the culprit.

what device and what type of cell?

@Ak89 Very nice job. Props to you for putting on your thinking cap and accomplishing what you set out to do. Feels good when the completed project is functional.

@Bousefield1 Yes the up and down buttons are pull down and use a common ground, any GND on the board or batt negative. Fire switch is.......pull-up to batt + voltage (at least on the 200-250-75 boards)

@georgii_ your easiest option is to go with what @retird posted. The other option would be to use something along the lines of this : https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-24pin-USB-Type-C-Male-Female-Plug-Socket-Connector-SMT-Type-w-PCB-1-Set-/311630199174 You would have to tap into the USB +5v, GND, Data + and Data - traces on the charger PCB. Lost Vape rolled their own 2 amp charging board, they didn't use the Evolv version. You would also have to make room for the USB C breakout board and widen the USB socket hole for the larger C socket. A lot of work for little to no gain, IMO. Why do you want a USB C connector instead of the micro USB?

@Ryan Brooks main thing is battery config (2,3,4 cell?) / removable? non-removable? / lipo? cylindrical? non critical things i tweak are : mod resistance / battery capacity / profile setup / case thermals.

The 100w applies only as a 1 second pre-heat boost feature. 75w is max continuous output of the board.

@kwfranklin88 The mileage with a fully charged lipo is as expected for a 4s 1500 mAh lipo, not as long as you'd think with a lipo that size but my main reason for getting such a high C discharge rated lipo was so i wasn't stressing the lipo, regardless of my set wattage. I'm sacrificing vape time for a higher discharge. There's barely any voltage sag even at a 300w preheat. I figured overkill on the lipo so i never have to replace it.

@NMEones I have no idea of the screw size needed to mount the board. It depends what you're mounting the to......plastic? metal? wood? I honestly never bought screws for mounting the board. I always had screws left over from other mods or various other projects. I just used what fit for the project, never measured them. In the PDF It lists the screw hole size and suggested screw size.; try there first. If you're still doubtful, open a help ticket or if someone happens to read this and they know for sure, maybe they can chime in.

Silicone wire is so much nicer to work with. Most if not all regulated mods use silicone, so you're golden. Just make sure you have the correct gauge. Each board has it's own recommended wire sizes. Be sure to look at what gauge is recommended for your model. You can get that info from the PDF's available on the Evolv website. Each board has it's own PDF manual.

Hey, @Paul828 have you tried to contact Ginger Vaper for just the body, contacts, wiring and 510? I'm not a huge fan of their battery contacts but it's better than nothing. Another option is to look around on Shapeways for an enclosure. As for the 510, wiring and batt contacts Ebay, Varitube, Fatdaddy Vapes etc. sells em. HERE>>>>> https://www.shapeways.com/product/RY6ERZSDM/dna200-mixnmatch?optionId=57859449&li=marketplace https://www.shapeways.com/product/PAPSL9SKK/dna200-mixnmatch-easymount-oled-n-battery-sled?li=shareProduct

I actually had to throw out a bad USB cable today because it threw up "warranty service" on every single DNA 200/250 i own. Kinda suckz because it is (was) a good quality 18awg charge only cable. Somewhere either in the cable itself or the connectors there's an intermittent short.

I always wanted an ePetite or even a Coral. I'm a sucker for anything small sized and feature packed. Good luck with your repair, be sure to post back on how things are going.