Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'led switch'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Resources
    • Themes and Custom Screens
    • EScribe, Software and Firmware
    • Manuals, Instructions, and Tutorials
    • Replay and Atomizers
  • DNA 250 Color
    • General Discussion
    • Modders' Forum
  • DNA 200 and 250
    • General Discussion
    • Installation and Assembly
  • DNA 75 Color
    • General Discussion
    • Modders' Forum
  • DNA 75
    • General Discussion
    • Installation and Assembly
  • DNA 60
    • General Discussion
    • Modders' Forum
  • DNA Go
    • General Discussion
  • Technical
    • Batteries and Charging
    • Connectors, Components, and Accessories
    • Report a Bug
    • Researcher Forum

Categories

  • Theme Park
    • DNA 60 Small Screen
    • DNA 60, 75, 200, 250
    • DNA 75 Color, 250 Color
  • EScribe
    • Atomizer Profiles
    • Settings
    • Translations
  • Custom Materials

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Found 1 result

  1. ATI B box ONPOW 16mm RGB momentary pushbutton (Common Anode, WITHOUT Resistor) GFORCE 1800 mAh 4s "Elite Series" 40C LiPo Varitube V2 510 Connection 12 AWG Silicone Wire (Battery and Output) "Deans" T-Connectors JST-PH Right Angle Balance Connector Custom JST-PH to JST-XH Adapter ...And LOTS OF DIE GRINDING!!!! I ground a 16mm cutout downward from the original 12mm CNC'd hole. Moving it as far as possible from the 510 without leaving a gap that wouldn't be covered by the switch bezel. However, there was still a clearance and shorting issue. So.... More grinding on the switch. I wanted the largest possible battery I could fit in the box, but that left concerns with the balance connector. I went with a right angle "PH" header on the board, and adapted that to the "XH" that comes standard on most batteries. I was already going big on this build and decided to push the limits running 12AWG wire throughout. (I know, beyond datasheet spec.... but I made it work.) Aluminum sinks heat very well, hence the ugly 510 ground. Just couldn't get things hot enough. I attached directly to the brass nut. Wiring the switch was tricky. ******************I don't recommend anyone try this unless you are VERY confident in your skills at soldering tiny points.****************** Black (ish) wire to the right is common positive (+) voltage (3.6v regulated). Gold/Copper wire is "blue" LED ground point. Red and Green wires are the ground points for their respective color. ***NOTE: Solder points are chosen to avoid using the onboard resistors. (ie. Attached to the side opposite the LED) I run my own "external" resistors at the switch... Resistor Values that I used: (A bit higher might be desired, since these values put the LED current beyond spec and a bit too bright, and probably affecting overall lifespan of the diode(s).) 62 ohm - RED 22 ohm - GREEN and BLUE And the battery ended up being larger than stated on the website by a mm or two in all directions, which required even more grinding to allow for clearance. Primarily on the lid. Not pretty, but necessary. But everything fit. Not much space remaining.... In case someone asks: Yes, I partially unwrapped the battery to slide the reinforcing shrink tube down the wire. I needed the additional bend radius.... I apologize for the quality of some pics. Build happened over numerous days, different lighting conditions, and a couple phones/cameras.