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Ak89 last won the day on July 7 2018

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  1. @Gilbertrican90 I have no idea. My understanding is that Linux beta is a type of emulator, and because it is still considered to be in "beta" stage, it is not fully functional. Emulators are quirky things and it is hard to predict how they will function. I am not familiar with the implementation of Linux beta on the chromebook,but I know that Linux emulators on windows are terrible for anything more than simple bash commands. They don't have a full Linux kernel so dependencies usually get screwed up. I wish I could assist more, but documentation is scarce, and that Google
  2. @Gilbertrican90 Escribe is meant to connect to evolv dna boards, typically through USB. Therefore, a mod would be a usb device....
  3. @Gilbertrican90 You may be fighting a losing battle. Linux beta on chrome book may not support usb devices. See: https://support.google.com/chromebook/answer/9145439?hl=en @Podunk Steam Linux MX has a desktop environment so terminal may not be needed at all. Right click the escribe file. Look for a permissions tab, and check for a box (or something) referring to making it executable. My earlier post about chmod requires "+x" not "-x", I mistyped and didn't catch it until I posted. It was edited immediately, but you may not have been notified... The note
  4. As long as the file does have executable permission it should work to run it. If you are in the directory that the file was downloaded to, try "./SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT.run" (If that is what it is called: Linux is case-sensitive with everything. Not sure if your disto supports it, but tab-complete usually helps avoid simple typing mistakes) If that doesn't work, log out of the super user account. I know early on with the Linux releases there were issues and the script will error if it has superuser (or sudo) rights. As an alternative, if you are running a desktop
  5. It has been a while since I used escribe on Linux, but if I remember right the *.run file is a script to install. You wont use apt. (Unless something has massively changed) It can be used for any missing dependencies, but not for the actual install. Try using "chmod +x" on the file then running it as an executable. Edit: I used minus x instead of plus x.
  6. @bluegray Hmmm. You have me curious now... If this Behavior existed intentionally, I'd be interested to know the reasoning behind removing it. I know my 250c doesn't do it so I would assume there isn't an issue with yours. Please post what you manage to learn from evolv. I'm sure there would be others equally curious as well.
  7. @bluegray The 250c does a lot of math when calculating resistance and TCR. I assume in order to get replay to function. When resistance is set on a profile, the board also saves ambient temp readings from a built on sensor. The board then calculates "expected" resistance changes based on changing ambient Temps and Coil material saved in the profile. As far as I know, the older boards lacked the ambient (room) temp sensor. Meaning that they were making calculations based on live ohm changes instead of any form of baseline, which the resistance lock may have made up for. S
  8. @bluegray No "auto-correction". It would be counter-productive because of the multi-profile design of the board. (ie You can set a profile for each atomizer. Helpful if one rotates tanks regularly.) As for ohms lock, I find that it is helpful if I remove my rta/rda while the coils are warm. The DNA board will detect the absence, and when I screw it back on it assumes that I have provided "new" coils of a different resistance. A "new coil?" prompt can be annoying when it happens a lot. (I clean dust and stuff from my mod often. Hazards of work.) FYI, Ohms lock is per profile. Se
  9. I personally haven't had this issue. I do know that the larger pads dissipate heat more and may be contributing to your problems, however, I assume that your main problem is an absence of flux. Don't rely on the flux within the core of the solder to be sufficient, unless you melt tons of it directly onto a hot pad. (Which could cause board delamination and pads that peel off from the excessive temps---NOT recommended) Instead source standalone flux (Rosin, not the acid stuff for plumbing), preferably no-clean or alcohol cleanable. (Avoid "water" clean, for obvious reasons) To ma
  10. @engmia I vape almost exclusively in TC, although I do play around with replay one in a while. My go-to is a Vandy Vape Pyro at the moment. Dual coils of quad-twist 28g SS316L, 7 wraps, resistance of .175 ohm. Settings currently are TC, 460F, power set at 110W, preheat at 120W, and punch at 8. Even at those wattages I can easily vape all day with ~30% battery remaining when I plug it in at night to charge. I don't disagree that 20700/21700s are superior to 18650s for capacity and amperage ability, however, my experience is that they don't tolerate high drain very w
  11. @DJT All possibilities. I have had a couple chargers that acted strange. Not Nitecore though. One (Efest, I think) seemed to stop charging almost randomly, sometimes going beyond 4.2v. Another that routinely stopped at 4.15v. Coughed up for an Opus BT-C3100 and never looked back: it consistently charged to a perfect 4.2v. I don't use 18650s in my mod anymore, but I still use my Opus to charge flashlight and other batteries. (As well as capacity and health testing...) If you have a multimeter, check voltage of the cells once the charger says they are full. That should give you a good
  12. @DJT On a whim, try using the DNA to charge your batteries vs. the external charger.... Maybe the charger is stopping prematurely? Just another idea to try out.
  13. @DJT It appears from your screenshot that your batteries aren't balancing. If those cells truly are fully charged, "fresh off an external charger", then they are not matched very well. The voltages vary too much. The DNA board will show 100% once ALL batteries balance. Out of curiosity, what batteries are you using? I have found that "cheap" (Usually more expensive) re-wrapped cells sold at local vape shops tend to have quite a bit of variance. The quality control just doesn't seem to be as high as quality branded batteries. (ie. LG, Sony, Samsung) In fact, many re-wrapped batteries are a
  14. If the battery is new, I'd say return it. With the voltage on cell 3, it would not be safe to try to force a charge. It is permanently damaged. Be safe with LiPos. Chemical fires are scary...
  15. @DkPatriots I haven't used any other LiPo on my 250C. Just 1800mAh. Based on my experience, and remaining battery life at the end of the day, I'm sure I wouldn't have had any problems with 1600mAh. Also, to calculate total Watt-hours, you can use ohm's law (My profile pic). P = V times I (P = Power/Watts, V = Voltage, I = Current/Amps) Nominal voltage of the battery pack (14.8V for a 4s LiPo) times capacity (1800 mAh (milliamp-hour) in my case) equals approximate Watt-hours. So, 14.8x1.8=26.64. (1800mAh equals 1.8Ah) Connectors that I used are listed in my above-
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