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Ak89 last won the day on July 7

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  1. Ak89

    Full Color RGB LED switch: Success!

    @engmia I vape almost exclusively in TC, although I do play around with replay one in a while. My go-to is a Vandy Vape Pyro at the moment. Dual coils of quad-twist 28g SS316L, 7 wraps, resistance of .175 ohm. Settings currently are TC, 460F, power set at 110W, preheat at 120W, and punch at 8. Even at those wattages I can easily vape all day with ~30% battery remaining when I plug it in at night to charge. I don't disagree that 20700/21700s are superior to 18650s for capacity and amperage ability, however, my experience is that they don't tolerate high drain very well. Internal resistance comes into play.... My preferred vape works MUCH better with a Li-Po. Higher wattage abilities without voltage sag or parasitic loss due to excess battery heating.
  2. @DJT All possibilities. I have had a couple chargers that acted strange. Not Nitecore though. One (Efest, I think) seemed to stop charging almost randomly, sometimes going beyond 4.2v. Another that routinely stopped at 4.15v. Coughed up for an Opus BT-C3100 and never looked back: it consistently charged to a perfect 4.2v. I don't use 18650s in my mod anymore, but I still use my Opus to charge flashlight and other batteries. (As well as capacity and health testing...) If you have a multimeter, check voltage of the cells once the charger says they are full. That should give you a good idea of where it is stopping.
  3. @DJT On a whim, try using the DNA to charge your batteries vs. the external charger.... Maybe the charger is stopping prematurely? Just another idea to try out.
  4. @DJT It appears from your screenshot that your batteries aren't balancing. If those cells truly are fully charged, "fresh off an external charger", then they are not matched very well. The voltages vary too much. The DNA board will show 100% once ALL batteries balance. Out of curiosity, what batteries are you using? I have found that "cheap" (Usually more expensive) re-wrapped cells sold at local vape shops tend to have quite a bit of variance. The quality control just doesn't seem to be as high as quality branded batteries. (ie. LG, Sony, Samsung) In fact, many re-wrapped batteries are actually cast-offs from such branded companies; cells that did not perform to specifications and quality requirements demanded by the company.
  5. Ak89

    Check battery problem.

    If the battery is new, I'd say return it. With the voltage on cell 3, it would not be safe to try to force a charge. It is permanently damaged. Be safe with LiPos. Chemical fires are scary...
  6. @DkPatriots I haven't used any other LiPo on my 250C. Just 1800mAh. Based on my experience, and remaining battery life at the end of the day, I'm sure I wouldn't have had any problems with 1600mAh. Also, to calculate total Watt-hours, you can use ohm's law (My profile pic). P = V times I (P = Power/Watts, V = Voltage, I = Current/Amps) Nominal voltage of the battery pack (14.8V for a 4s LiPo) times capacity (1800 mAh (milliamp-hour) in my case) equals approximate Watt-hours. So, 14.8x1.8=26.64. (1800mAh equals 1.8Ah) Connectors that I used are listed in my above-linked post. (I built custom adapters to save space) However, in most cases, you could just use the JST connector that comes with the DNA250C board and plug the battery balance connector into it... Finally, just to clarify, the image you linked of a GXL box was not posted by me. I used a "B" box, which is a bit bigger. I thought about getting an "N1" box, but the overall dimensions were too bulky for an all-day carry type vape that I was going for. My B-box fits nicely in a back pocket.... Ultimately it becomes a trade-off that only you can decide on.
  7. @DkPatriots I used a different 1800mAh 4s battery. Dimensions were a little larger than the turnigy, but I got it to fit with quite a bit more grinding. A little creativity allowed me to use all four magnets as well... Check out my build HERE. The focus isn't on the battery, but it is included.
  8. Ak89

    Halogen Bulb Atomizer

    The DNA board doesn't have any TCR values for Tungsten by default. (Halogen uses tungsten filaments, which have an odd resistive curve if I remember correctly) Plus, it sounds like you are trying to get the bulb glowing hot? If that's the case you might need to fiddle with Escribe to see if you can manipulate things in the "safety" tab, like "Max Output Temperature". This is just my theory. Not sure if the board will even tolerate such a load. Good luck, hopefully you can figure something out.
  9. Ak89

    250c 3s lipo problems

    Have you tried checking voltage of the graphene cells individually with a multimeter? That would determine if the board is misreading voltage. To me, it would appear that the LiPo is excessively discharged, or damaged in some other way. Try a different battery...
  10. Ak89

    Full Color RGB LED switch: Success!

    @engmia Yes it is CNC cut. THIS is the one I used. Could not find anything pre-cut with 16mm fire button hole in this box size. I wanted something I could carry all day, every day. Not a coffee table mod. And it is working amazing for that purpose. Battery life is great too. I easily vape from 6am to midnight, or later, and usually have around 20% remaining when I put it on charge. Approx. 25mL per day. Once, I had it down to 9%, but that was after another 5-10mL. Previously, using 18650s, I was halfway through my third pair by the time I put everything to charge. 4s LiPo is MUCH more efficient at the higher wattage, comparatively.
  11. Looking forward to this. Any attempt to rearrange things causes the program to crash. Annoying, and makes the software unusable....
  12. Ak89

    Stainless Steel 316L and Replay

    My guess would be that you don't have the mod's internal resistance set accurately. A small deviation unaccounted for can affect how the board measures resistance and cause various issues with temp control and replay. I use SS316L exclusively and haven't had any issues with temp or replay. Use a copper plug/bolt that threads into the 510, or in a pinch an RDA/RTA with heavy gauge copper wire in place of a coil, to dead-short the mod. Run EScribe, and go to "Mod", "Electrical". Set "Mod Resistance" to zero ohms. Upload Settings. Then, under the "General" tab, click "Atomizer Analyzer" at the bottom of the screen. Since the atomizer is effectively shorted, whatever the mod reports as "Raw" resistance is a good estimate of the internal resistance. Use approx. 80% of the "Raw" number, and input that as your "new" Mod Resistance. Upload. Hopefully things start acting right.
  13. Ak89

    Mirage 75C info

    Download and install Escribe International version. Should give the option to update firmware. Link: https://www.evolvapor.com/escribe
  14. Ak89

    Full Color RGB LED switch: Success!

    Thanks! Yes, I like stepping out and doing things that haven't been done before. Not seeing anything posted on these forums about anyone actually doing the switch was all the inspiration I needed. Challenge Accepted! 😁
  15. Ak89

    Full Color RGB LED switch: Success!

    As far as the door lip: I went wild with the dremel and removed a lot of it. I still used a piece of folded cardboard though to push the battery far enough from the wall of the case that it didn't interfere with the magnets. Don't have any pictures right now, but could post some later if anyone is interested....