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Found 4 results

  1. Alright. So I 'read' the manual. And I googled around for a while hunting down others voltage issues but everything I find is battery related... I think my case might be a little more specific. So let me preface this by saying i like to tinker. So decisions were made to ensure that I could change things around often. This should take care of things liked "dude that is a-lot of wire" and "Why in the f**k do you need a terminal strip". Since I am also a fan of over-building everything we can avoid things like "Bro; but it's barely 4 amps!" or even the occasional "you can get cheaper better built ones online". It's just a simple passthrough box (screenshots attached) with a terminal strip to terminate all connections. Easy to take apart and put back together and modify. This is far from its final form, just a proof. I'm coming over from a GENE chip (the drag) because it's time to leave batteries behind. I got the 250c because I can't help myself, easy enough to justify with a "just in case" --right? I got the giant case because I have big clumsy hands and limited to moderate patience when the lower back starts to ache from hunching over to work on tiny things in smaller places. The power supply is a genuine Meanwell LRS-150. Will be connected to a LRS-350 for the full 30 amps when in final use. So that I can use all of 45 of those 350 watts... That out of the way lets talk about 9.38 volts. And why the DNA chip seems to think that's what its getting. * Plug in brand new chip. Apply 12.25v. * Plug in USB (5v). * Download and push latest firmware and reset * Generate custom material profile based on COMPLETELY TRUSTWORTHY(tm) Reddit information. (screenshot attached) --- TC/r value. To: 0.00240 --- Temp sensing (of course) * Set the custom values in the profile. (Screenshot attached) --- 45 watts --- No preheat --- Temp cap 525 --- No replay --- Locked resistance based on new coil 24 hours at room temp. * Push to device * Satisfaction (until i check the diagnostics) Wiring is 2 runs of 16 gauge for power and ground from the PSU to the block. I would love to have used 2 runs of 12 but the aviation connectors wouldn't have it. Speakon for V2 if this proof of concept works. 12 gauge for everything else. Seriously disappointed in the stock pad-soldering solution for a supposed 400 watts. That's it really. Thing performs flawlessly at these settings and feels exactly like my GENE chips at the same (converted) settings. I just don't understand why the chip is reading 9.38 volts. Doesn't behave like its under powered, still need to get my shunt and ammeter in the loop to see whats up in that regard. I understand every time you add a link in the chain, another connection, another length of wire, another terminal and so on you add resistance which can effect voltage at high power levels. I scuff-buff-n-clean all my connection points and solder joints. Clean all conformal coating off and pre-tin the pads and wires. I also fully admit I solder with the dexterity of a ham-fisted gorilla on methamphetamine. I have tested every link in the chain repeatedly with a multitude of multiple multi meters and displays of varying known offsets. I know beyond a shadow of the doubt I had the 3rd time I de-soldered EVERYTHING and re-soldered it; those pads are absolutely mechanically and electrically connected. Thanks in advance. Hope I just dun-goofd' a setting somewhere. I'm worried I cooked it during some of that professional soldering..... Had fun writing this up and getting the screen shots though ๐Ÿ˜‰ -Crit (bonus points for why it thinks it has 3 cells when i didn't even so much as solder on the connector)
  2. Greetings fellow vapers! I've been looking into building my own mod, woodwork powered by DNA250c, but with pretty much everything sorted, I've run into one major setback. Can't figure out wiring for a single battery device. The 250c data sheet has 2s, 3s, 4s wiring printed out, but no mention about single cell setup. Does the mean 250c can't run on a single battery? Or am I missing something? Cheers edit: typos
  3. jordanmartos

    DNA 75C Replacement Screen

    Hello all, My DNA 75C recently developed a black spot on it and I'm looking into getting a replacement screen. I can't seem to find any video anywhere that shows how to replace it though. I'm currently deployed and don't have access to many tools. So I'm debating on whether I should send it off or do it myself. Could someone post a link or video or something so I can determine whether I can do it or if I need to send it? Thanks!
  4. Hi,I'm a DIY enthusiast especially in electronics. I'm actually building a portable Playstation 2 Slim with an IPS display, so that it would look like a Wii U controller. It's my first large electronic endeavor. However, being portable, I'd need it to be powered by rechargeable batteries. I'm very confused on how to approach the power part of this project. I'll try my best to be detailed as possible! I look forward towards your answers! โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€” Some Details Looking around, I concluded that a battery pack of 18650s (3S) would do a good job, it seemed straight forward too. Connecting three of them in series will produce a maximum of 12.6V. It's also a bit common, therefore a lot of information about the batteries can be found, and even be salvaged from laptop battery packs. I have some details on the electronics included in the project so far: Sony Playstation 2 Slim (Model 75003) Operational Voltage: 8.5V Power Consumption: 6 A Maximum Innolux N070IDG (Yeh, I love nice screens :D) Type: IPS LCD Resolution: 1280x800 Size: 7 Inch Diagonal Operating Voltage: 9-12V (Best at 12V) Consumption: 190-210mA (full brightness) (Indicated from Bench power supply) Display Interface: Includes Interface board of HDMI, VGA, 2 x AV. PAM8403 Audio Amplifier( 2 Channel Output: 3W output per channel at 4 Ohms. Voltage: 5V โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€” The Batteries I managed to obtain 6 x 18650 Batteries from an old laptop. After some searching, it seems to be Sony SF US18650GR 2400mAH Li-Ion batteries. So I concluded that this seems good enough as a start, three of them. โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€” The Problem I wanted to use this 3S battery pack with a BMS. After I got the BMS, just as I was about to assemble the pack, i researched some more. It seems that BMS's do NOT balance cells. I thought, since it has an under and overcharge protection, it will all charge the cells at 4.2V each, when the cell is full but the others are not, it will stop charging for that particular cell and continues on the cells that aren't full. But I seem to be wrong, and it can still be out of balance. I was wondering.. most consumer devices we use, simply use a DC power charger/supply to re-charge devices, such as laptops or portable speakers, etc. For sure, they must've designed a balancing circuit inside the battery pack or in the device - or they aren't balance charging neither? Most tutorials mention, that the use of a balance charger with a balance connector is the only way to maintain its performance. I find it rather inconvenient to carry around a balance charger and remove the battery pack from the device to re-charge it. My question is .. is it possible to design a battery pack, that has necessary protection features such as under/over voltage and over current protection, and design it in a way that it charges through a simple DC barrel charger? Or is balance charging.. something not completely necessary? I'm just really scared about using lithium batteries. I don't want to put myself or anyone in harm. โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€” My Possible Solutions Since I'm not very experienced about lithium batteries, and to me, it seems balancing is so critical. I thought of a few solutions that I hope will be ok to do, I welcome your feed back on them! Solution A - Use only a 1S3P (or more in parallel) Pack instead and use a TP4056-based USB 5V Charger. Pairing with 3 BOOST converters to power the LCD, PS2 and other electronics at their own voltages, WITH a 1S BMS. (My worry, is that my battery may not be able to handle the current draw.) I'm aware that I'll have to do calculations based on the efficiency of the boost converters as well, to get an accurate current draw from the batteries. Solution B - My initially decided method, I think the diagram is self explanatory. But I'm hesitant to use this method as I discovered is does not balance the cells (and ruin its life) and can be dangerous. Solution C - Individually Protect Each CELL with a 1S BMS, AND use a 3S BMS together. It sounds ridiculous, I guess. But somehow I think it will work, but not as great or wouldn't be recommended. Solution D - The Proper Balanced Method , which would need a use a of bulky balance charger and the inability to use the device while charging (removal of the pack needed to charge). It's really inconvenient, in my opinion. โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”โ€” Well, thanks for reading, i hope that wasn't too lengthy. I really hope i get an answer out of this once and for all. Because I don't usually ask, I just research. Now I really need help as it can be dangerous if this goes wrong. Please let me know what you think and what solution is best! I'll try to answer back with the best of my ability. I'm also eager to know, about what mistakes there could be in my 'possible solutions'! So that I could avoid or correct them in the future. Once again, Thank you very much.