Spector NS5 RD

i would contact the vendor you purchased the mod from before taking anything apart. ask for a return or exchange.

strange. it could be a poor lipo battery connection. make sure the JST-XH balance connector is secure as well as the main -/+ connection. i would connect it to EScribe and watch device monitor when the device displays shorted. hopefully it cleared up by itself.

in EScribe, Atomizer Analyzer what does it say (in ohms) for the build that gives you the "shorted" message? also what is you "mod resistance" set to?

it's a connection problem, onel0ck. somewhere between the board and your build. anything from a bad 510 solder joint, loose broken 510 wiring, to loose atty post screws, contact coils etc.

first time i've ever seen anything like this. it appears cell 1 and 2 voltage take turns sky rocketing up then slowly fall back down and vise versa (does this correspond to the rise and fall of the USB current?). whereas, cell 3 seems to be steady. make sure nothing came loose. I.E. the balance tap JST-XH connector (make sure it's snug and snapped into place also the two main +/- bullet connectors). if they're tight and good, then try a hard reboot a few times from EScribe. if that still doesn't clear the issue up, try and re-flash the SP firmware you're running. what firmware are you running? what wattage did you run BA at? and into what ohm load?

what does it look like inside the USB port, itself? any bent or missing pins? what i gather from your first post, USB charging DID work before? then you fiddled around in EScribe and now it doesn't?

@sams......if you watch your battery line, in Escribe's device monitor, you should see the voltage "blip" (move slightly up, around 0.01v's) if you click between "enable and disable USB charging." this should tell you whether or not the charging IC is activating or not. or find and inline USB meter like i have. that's a sure fire way to tell if you're drawing any current. if you select this option this will also turn OFF you USB charging capabilities.

if i had to guess, i would say the hardest part of your build is going to be the soldering of tiny enamel coated wires to the USB data -/+ pinouts of the micro USB socket. hard but def doable. if you have any problems, just post em or shoot me a PM. Good Luck!

i did, i routed around my old circuit board collection and found one. they're a fairly common value resistor. the 10k res gets connected from #15 on the DNA 60 to the incoming 5v USB. so anywhere you can find 5v USB on either of your sandwhiched daughter boards.

back many years ago i kept running into into fuel cut on my 97 eclipse GSX. happened when i went with front mount IC and ripped out the stock T-25 turbo for a td05 18g, 3 inch full back,GReddy BOV etc etc. i eventually had to upgrade the injectors, fuel pump, rework the MAF and send out the MCU for reprogramming. only to shatter the rear diff with all that 5k rpm launching!

that USB charger you bought will not work with the DNA 200 board. The DNA 200's USB is installed directly onto the main PCB. It's not a separate board. What you have looks to be a 500mah micro USB charging board that was used for the DNA 20 / 30 /40. Open a repair ticket with Lost Vape's warranty repair center. the link is in the bottom of my signature>>>>>>> if it still connects to EScribe, you can post a screenshot of device monitor with the battery option boxes ticked.

does the board connect to escribe? what are both cell voltages and pack volatge in device monitor? do you have the balance tap wired correctly for 2 cell config?

one board has the RBP buzzer and one of the two charging IC's. the other board, on top of that board, has the second charging IC and the battery leads soldered to it. you would need to de-solder these two boards from each other and take a look at the USB pin out. you're going to have to do what i did when i decided to keep my VS DNA 40 daughter board. here's a photo of what i had to do to the USB (your USB socket will look similar to mine, our daughter boards are different but that is irrelevant). i will also personally help you through this if you decide to go this route.

i would contact the vendor you purchased the mod from if it's still within their warranty. if not, open a help ticket with Evolv. the link is in my sig at the bottom. i don't think up/downgrading the firmware is what causes the board to fail and read the cells incorrectly. it's something else.

most likely one is the charging board, and one for the buzzer (does it have a RBP / buzzer?) and the other is the DNA 40 board. you'll have to most likely do what i did and solder small enamel coated wire directly to the USB pinouts.

there are ways around having to use evolv's charging/data board. it's not an absolute must have. you can use the USB that is already inside the VS Vaporflask. the data pins might not be connected, but i guarantee you they are there. it all depends on your soldering skills and if you want to take the time to do it.

what's your "cell soft cutoff" set to in EScribe? i have mine set to 2.65v - 2.7v for the DNA 75 when using 18650/26650 cells. if you want, you can post a screenshot of device monitor firing the build that is giving you the "weak battery" message. just know, 26650 cells aren't the greatest for vaping (EDIT : high wattage vaping). they have a higher internal resistance than the 18650. the only 26650 that is a true 30 amp cell is the Ijoy 26650, so far.

i prefer silicone wire. both the teflon and silicone stand up, pretty well, to high temps and soldering, but the teflon wins the heat battle (insulation doesn't get soft if heated). i will say the teflon wire i received, was more stiff than silicone insulated, like PVC. that's why i prefer the silicone, easier to work with.

What brand of cell are you using? "weak battery" means the voltage sag is so great during firing, you're reaching your "cell soft cutoff" value. this can indicate a poor choice of cell (battery) or a poor connection (dirty battery contacts, loose battery contacts, poor solder joint for battery wares)

they can be brought back to life but their capacity will severely hurt. post a screenshot of DM with the all the battery option boxes ticked. also is there any juice on, around or inside the USB port area? and welcome to forum!

basically what @retird said - try a few more USB cable and restart your PC and open only EScribe, disconnect all USB hubs that's used with the PC, if any. if it still doesn't come to life you can take it to bits, check out the soldering and if that's good, de-solder the board and open a help ticket with Evolv. i'm guessing you got it as a "doesn't work, so here ya go" freebie. am i right?

here's one option........... http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPGRADE-LIPO-BATTERY-1300mAh-3S-11-1V-EFUSION-VAPECIGE-CUSTOM-EVOLV-DNA-200-250-/272517143930?var=&hash=item3f73499d7a:m:maVwXKjZiS5g_nUNSbq71Sw

if you're going to use it as power wires and not as signal wires (up/down/fire buttons), make sure it's the correct thickness. too thin and bye bye enamel coating, hello short city. also don't forget the positive wire from the board to the 510 moves with the 510's center spring loaded pin (if you are using a spring loaded 510), be sure to account for that back and forth movement of putting on and taking off atty's.

i keep finding myself looking at 3D printers. well, looking for a decent, reasonably priced one that i can learn with and not break. be sure to post your sled results.

i can't see nuttin.....