Spector NS5 RD

hey if they make you happy and more importantly, they work well in the device, then happy vaping. you might want to shoot Battery Mooch a PM over at ECF and ask him exactly what cell is underneath that pink wrapper. as for brillpower cells being made for specifically for vaping, that's just a marketing ploy. there are NO cells on the market today designed for vaping. most work fine in our mods but they were mainly intended for use inside cordless power tools and electric vehicles. Sony has already stated they don't want any of their cells being used for vaping and will refuse sale to a distributor if found they are selling them for that purpose.

welcome to the forum Thir13enthour. i'm guessing this is a non temperature control coil inside? you really wouldn't need a profile for it since you'll only be adjusting wattage, up to you. however, you can set up a profile for non TC tank that is set to a specific wattage. are you looking for a custom Limitless XL screen to make a profile? you can ask someone here to make you one or you can make your own using this piece of software. /topic/65710-topic/?do=findComment&comment=889880

i would stay away from rewraps. stick with LG, Samsung or Sony cells. at least you know you can trust the specs considering they actually made the cells. if you only vape between 40-60w, i would look at the LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q cells, both are 3000 mah and around 20a CDR. if you're willing to overpay for the Brillpower name (because that's all your paying extra for, is a name. the Brillpower pink 18650 2600 mah is most likely a LG or Samsung cell underneath the wrap), then i would suggest the Sony VTC6 cells, 3000 mah 20a CDR. i use the VTC6 cells in my Vt167.

You're unhappy with the battery life? What wattage so you usually run at? 13 wh will usually get me through to about the 6 hour mark at 75-80w. Is your device draining the cells while idle?

you may have a damaged screen. part of the W for watt is cut off. or you may have a loose screen ribbon connection to the board. evolv does sell replacement screens if it is the screen.

are you able to post a screenshot of Device Monitor with cells 1-2 and pack voltage checked?

Escribe cannot make your battery last longer. it can however, provide you with a more accurate battery meter. what kind of cells/lipo are you using and what is your watt hour set to in EScribe?

just a side note, if your SET wattage is equal to or exceeds your preheat power setting, all of your preheat settings (power, time, punch) become ineffective.

Post a screenshot of device monitor and your battery settings. Also, what size mag lipo are you using. Could be a couple things.

explain a little further. is the percentage going down while the device is sitting idle? if so, i would ask about a replacement. that could be an early defective board. or do you mean while using the device, the percentage falls quickly? just like the DNA 75/200/250 you can upload a battery CSV specific to the cell you are using. that should make your battery meter a little more accurate.

not really the same USB voltage, as you can see at 4.27v the black mod is limiting the current down to 1.3a. that .01v DOES make a difference. on all of my DNA 250 mods the USB voltage rarely goes below 4.65v. this insures enough head room and proper charging. i use USB cables that are charge only, when charging. this style USB cable allows more room for larger gauge charging wires. it could be a bad charging circuit on the silver mod but i would invest in a good USB cable that doesn't let the USB voltage sag so much. whenever you see the USB voltage sagging down to 4.2X, it's time to get a good USB cable or wall wart (USB power source). we need to provide the board enough USB voltage head room before condemning the board. here's what i use..... just an example. https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Specialised-3-3ft-20AWG-Charge/dp/B00RQ5AZ6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489955435&sr=8-1&keywords=portapow+usb+cable

RCM Vapes......you lipo settings look fine. your board temp seems OK. your cells appear to be balanced. however, your USB voltage is sagging severely down to 4.26v. when the DNA board sees the USB voltage drop down to 4.27v and below, it limits it's current draw. basically your not supplying enough power to the board. this can be a crappy USB cable, a USB port incapable of providing the necessary power. you should set, through EScribe, to see USB VOLTAGE on your DNA mod's screen and notice the voltage during charging. this will help you pick a good setup (charger + USB cable).

no, just take a pointed pair of tweezers (or anything pointy) and if you look closely you'll see a latch on both sides of the switch. just pry up on each side at a time being careful to not let the top portion go flying across the room when it does come loose from the bottom section.

can you post a screenshot of device monitor with the battery options and board temp boxes ticked? also a screenshot of your battery settings. what version firmware are you running?

contact the vendor about a replacement. what would be really great is if you can find out what cell 1-2 are reading in Device Monitor. that would tell us, for sure, if the board is gone. if one or both cells are reading incorrectly, which i'm guessing is the case, the board needs replacement. edit...evolv warranties the board for 1 year from the date of purchase. there is also a lostvape repair center. both links are in my signature.

LOL, good to hear it's finally working out in the DNA's favor. think of it like trying to drink a milkshake through one of those tiny coffee stir straws (milkshake being the current, stir straw being the wire and you are the DNA 167).

if you don't have a warranty to void, you can open the device and clean the fire button with some iso alcohol. the button comes apart exposing the contacts. the contacts is what you would clean with a little bit of alc on a qtip or the corner of a piece of cloth. if i find a pic of the button in pieces, i will update this post. edit....here's what the DNA 40's button looks like disassembled, similar to the 75's

upgrade, as in bigger? not a chance, VS designed the mod to barely fit the Fullymax 900. the replacement would have to be the exact measurements of the Fullymax one.

welcome to forum alkokristian. can you post a screenshot of EScribe's Device Monitor with cells 1-3, USB Current, USB Voltage, boxes ticked?

brand new authentic HB6's, although small in capacity, should handle anything the DNA 250 asks from them. i'm tellin ya, it's all about connection and the ability to flow that current from the cells to board. start from the cells and work back to the board (with a set plan, you're less likely to miss something). contacts pushing hard and flush against the ends of the cells. you want firm pressing contacts with a large surface area to mate with the cell. good quality sleds can be hard to find. correct battery wire awg. wires (including tap wire) soldered solidly to contacts. solid main + and - batt wire to board pads soldering....tap too. other than that, i'm outta ideas.

LOL i think i misunderstood your question and YOU misunderstood my answer. no problem tho, i'll re-explain. you worded your question in such a way that hinted to you having a 60 and i thought you were wondering how to run CA. so far, there is no way to run the CA program with the 60, as of yet. i agree FULLY, CA is very useful for TC. re-read my original response. albeit it is somewhat technical but i think still understandable.

at 3.43v the regular charging cycle should take over, as long as the cells are somewhat balanced. if not, VS does sell the Fullymax 900mah lipo with all of the necessary connectors already installed. however, if you're still withing the 120 day warranty, i would send it to them and spend nothing.

wait for response first from evolv. they may have you send in the entire device. either way, they'll get you back up and running.

great question, Kiss V.! i haven't yet delved into the DNA 60 case analyzer yet. my guess is evolv may work out a way to run it with the 60 board. you have to consider the DNA 60 has NO communication with the charging circuitry. the DNA 60 cannot tell the charging IC to stop or start charging, increase or decrease USB current draw. that renders case analyzer almost useless. BUT, there may be a simplified way of getting CA to work with the 60. just a simple temp rise analysis during the charge cycle. in the meantime, pick a DNA 75 that has a similar shape and input those numbers if you want. same charging IC as the one on the satellite board for the 60.

the mosfet circled in red is the reverse batt protection. the 2 circled in white are switching mosfets responsible for converting the battery voltage into usable atty voltage. looking at your pic, it's a synchronous buck topology. same as the DNA 200/250. except the DNA has 2 inductors (coil thingies) and 4 switching mosfets. this is what gives the DNA 200/250 a 97% efficiency rating and lets the board run cooler at high wattage. it's super hard to see your solder joints in you DIY 250 from those pics. i'm not expecting you to rip it apart, but it you may want to closely inspect your joints to make sure they're solid. i always double check my joints with a lighted magnifying glass. you'd be surprised at a joint you thought looked fine with just your eyeball holes, only to find out it's super sketch up close and under magnification. obviously the way you wired it is fine, it IS working. when you get a chance, post a screenshot of DM with the batt sag (make sure only cell 1-2 boxes are ticked. DM tends to run faster with less boxes ticked. at least on my garbage PC.). here are a couple shots of DM using my DNA 167 using 2 yr old sony vtc4 (3.8v resting) cells at around 120 watts. here's with charged vtc5a's at the full 167w