dwcraig1

Here's mine firing at 65 watts

The wire type needs to be something other than kanthal or nichrome and be in a profile for temp wire for temp vaping to be activated. Use the appropriate profile. Example Watts profile with Watts selected for material, no temperature control there. Does your voltage drop change a lot after it get warm? Where does the heat appear to come from?

So if your able to get 80 watts out of your other mod with that cell then it is most likely a poor connection between the battery and it's contacts. That cell is at best a 20 amp cell but should do more than 40 watts.

Hoover your mouse over the area indicated by red arrow. That is the voltage drop on your cell when firing. Report back to us what that voltage is.

Both my desktop and notebook are running Windows 11 Pro with the latest updates with no problem connecting DNA devices.

Look in Windows Device Manager when connected to the non C. If it looks like this Windows sees it but doesn't know what to do with it, no drivers, ect. If it isn't showing up then the device isn't communicating with Windows for what ever reason.

Is it the same RBA in the different box?

By "box", do you mean Boro box?

I am also out of ideas. Maybe someone else will have some.

I'm a fan of the non color boards. They have a feature called refinement where the board fine tunes the cold resistance when the mod sits idle. Color boards don't refine. Try letting your atty cool and remeasure ohms again, does it change?

Is that before or after posting your problem? Did anything change?

Use Atomizer Analyzer to make sure the two 510 connections are more than just contacting. Note number of turns it take to lose good connection. Set mod resistance yourself using 510 shorting tool. I made mine from an old cartomizer with it's end soldered over, a 510 to 510 adapter could have same done to it. If you make any changes to mod resistance be sure to upload settings.

the I believe that you are wanting to change TCR directly on the mod but it can be changed for various wire type in EScribe under the Materials/Action tab. (Just incase that you weren't aware of it)

Ask here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Personally I wouldn't buy a DNA60 mod that wasn't EScribe capable.

It seems that you already know the answer.

Is it a weak puff just for the first puff when mod comes out of sleep or is it weak every puff? A screen shot like this one will be most helpful.

Here is my DNA250C with two 18650 Samsung 20S cells @ 67%, 3.8 volts per cell standing at start, firing at 120 watts. Cell Soft Cutoff is set at 2.75 volts so no throttling should occur till cell voltage drops below that. Battery sled contacts are clean. Here throttling would start at voltage drop of 5.5 volts and it's only dropping to 6.57 volts.

Just how many watts are you vaping at?

Jumping the balance connector to B+ and B- is how I wire a 2 cell 200/250 EDIT: It appears that I grabbed the wrong image as this is a DNA 250C but just disregard pin out #4

Make sure that the threads are clean on the top of the box (both parts). Check all connections related to coil.

I'd start with using a phone or some other device that uses data to verify the cable does data. Earlier versions, EScribe 1.2 will not work with the color boards, it must be 2.0 https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP30_INT.exe https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP31_INT_ServicePack.exe

LOL

Yes, one is 0.011 and the other is 0.012 ohms.

With the Insider removed from the Boro box I am able to screw it into the 510 of the SDNA75. The center pin on the SDNA75 travels up farther than most other mods. It will start reading resistance before the first thread catches. The Insider makes a good connection on it. The values between the BB and the DNA75 were almost identical.