dwcraig1

So I just happen to have been getting ready to do a dry burn on the coil of my Insider that I'm using in an SXK BB last night before work (as I was reading your post). I used AA with the BB to check resistance while cold. I then screwed the Insider onto my SDNA75, it makes an excellent connection on the 510's center pin. I then checked it with AA and it was almost the same, just a fuzz higher. The SDNA75 uses a ground wire from the board to the 510.

I'm confused a bit, your first post you stated 0.093 - 0.094 ohms but later AA shows 0.812 ohms

Take a look at the top of the Boro and note if your chimney is protruding from the top ever so slightly. There have been some cases where it is not at the top ox the box resulting in a poor ground.

I use SS430 but note there are 3 different values shown for resistance. My screen shows .51 ohm., the top number is current resistance. When atomizer analyzer is active it applies a very small amount of current to the coil. If you are using Kanthal or Nichrome the nominal value is for that. But for setting mod resistance use that top number.

Just to be sure, here is the procedure for checking mod resistance and setting it. First you set mod resistance to 0 and upload settings. Next with mod attached with shorting plug open Atomizer Analyzer and read resistance. Enter resistance in mod resistance box and upload settings.

Did you measure the mod resistance at 0.006 ohms or did you simply just set it to that. Mine both measured at 0.011.

Please provide a screen of Device Monitor when it's showing 4% (or similar).

My next reply would have been to try the cables on another device that uses data such as a cell phone. Your certainly not the first to post of such problem.

Does your computer indicate via tone or Device Manager that it is connecting to computer? You might try removing the batteries for 5 minutes.

Buy a meter for $5

Here's how it looks Edit: need to change maximum puffs to maximum recharges, I forgot that very important detail....duh

I have adjusted the battery curve with this CSV, this is for charging to stop at 4.1 volts per cell. It is adjusted to show 100% charge at 4.1 volts per cell. This is how I do all my Lipo powered DNAs, the battery will have a much longer life. Save your battery CSV first and give this one a try, you can always go back. Remember to upload the settings each time that you make a change and want it to stick. Edit: Be sure to change "Maximum Puffs" to "Maximum Recharges and upload settings. DNA250C 4 cells at max recharges.csv

You should still be able to apply service pack even though it's not connected to EScribe, it does still need to be detected by Windows though. Just apply the firmware update just as you normally would. Check in Window's Device Manager to see if Windows detects it. Then again maybe that's what your already saying that is not happening. There are some USB 3.0 controllers out there that seem to not get along with DNA boards.

Nope, probably because it doesn't need one.

Looking at Element Vape's site it says OLED, but on Dovpos' official site it is listed as TFT. Must be an error. As far as I know they are all the same but come from various manufacturers. https://dovpo.com/products/riva-dna250c-box-mod?variant=32168983101482

Are you having a problem using yours in TC mode?

Mine measured 0.008 ohms

Try asking here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

Take a really good look at the battery door, make sure it closes tight enough against the cells.

I removed the batteries from my 250C and plugged in the USB and got the "check clock" message. Next unlocked it and fired and got the "check battery" message. Started EScribe and Device Monitor showed 0 voltage for the cells (as expected). So I then proceed to look at some Youtube reviews for the ThinkVape 250C and notice they use a very large diameter positive contact for the batteries. I'm thinking that may very well be the problem here. Take a really good look at the positive end of the batteries to see if this might be the case. A bad connection on just one would do it. Another set of cells really needs to be tried here as it appears to me to be a battery connection problem and not a board problem. Edit: The positive battery contact is so large that in some cases it may rest on battery insulator ring and wrapper instead of on battery positive.

I paid $9.29 with free shipping on eBay for this one.

Well I had to go here: https://www.pcmag.com/news/thunderbolt-3-vs-usb-c-whats-the-difference

Use 18650 setting for round cells.

If pressing the fire button 5 times puts it in to lock mode and it then says "Locked, Clicked 5 times" and you can see that OK then the mod is in stealth mode. Stealth mode is turned on/off by first locking fire button by pressing 5 times. When locked hold fire button and down button at the same time to turn stealth mode on/off.