Wayneo

Gents, couple things. You can actually include/show MORE vertical lines in Device Monitor. The 1st is just a click, subsequent (on a Mac) are a 'control' click. It's good showing a before puff. Sample below. What I didn't mention before is the battery used for my screenshot (.7v drop at 35 watts) is from heavily used Sony VTC5 with a dented positive (from this mod).

Gents, I do believe @James was hoping for a 'Device Monitor' from all 3 of you. Ideally it should look like below. The only addition I'll make is if you hover in the middle of a puff it will show details such as battery voltage at that time (see my mouse arrow). @Dieseljesus thanks for finally compairing to your blaze, and could you swap boro and battery again. Edit: And if you go to settings on your mod and click(fire button) at the top, it will show current puffs and firmware (also requested for all 3 of you).

I will assume you have an SXK BB and you said you wiped up the board. Now focus on that off-board external fire button. Clean that with IPO if you can. You could remove the wires from the board, and see if Device Monitor still thinks it is being pressed. If it still shows 'Fire' you know it's the button on the board itself.

What device do you have? Is your device using the on-board buttons or external buttons like the billet box? If you were to start 'Device Monitor" on the bottom line it will show (among other things) if it believes any buttons are pressed.

Alrighty, been thinking. At what point are you folks swapping your batteries? When the icon is getting low or when you're getting a 'weak battery' warning on your screen or when it no longer fires and displays 'check battery' on your screen? When you do go to charge that battery, what is the voltage at? It should be close to 3.0-3.2 volts if you vape till 'weak battery' except for @Dieseljesus (but it's long winded to explain, but I can if you want) While there is no 'stealth' option, you can turn the screen brightness down in the settings on the mod.

So if you swap the battery and boro from the San to the Blaze is it still 3 batteries for one tankful? And what batteries are you using?

For questions like these you'd need to open a 'Help Desk' ticket. There's a link in my signature line below.

So far everything looks really good. 👍 See how during your puff, they're pretty much all equal in the amount they drop. While you are using the latest firmware, the US version limits new features for you. The 'INTL' has no limitations.

Dude, can you post a Device Monitor screenshot. Don't take a puff or do anything. I'm looking at your 4 cells, and if they're relatively all the same voltage (batteries have zero clue about any %). After it's done charging, same thing except screenshot while taking a puff, and I wanna see the puff. Here I'm looking if one cell is noticeably weaker than the others.

You will always get better results using proper/consistent Replay usage using a TC capable material (wire, such as SS) in an RBA. I have used chunky N80 (non TC) clapton coils in Replay successfully. I have used those Vaporesso coils also. At a minimum you need a solid positive and negative connection. It could be down to even the flushnut you're using, or the boro(tank) itself not allowing a great connection.

In just under 9 years of using DNA mods with built in batteries I have never needed to tweak/crimp my USB outer casing. The mere thought of using an external charger, removing the power and JST connector just doesn't seem practical to me. The odd time I had a loose connection, it was at the cable end.

Can you post a link for that battery, please.

Good idea if you can swap the base. Just checking that when you installed the new Material file you did tick the box for temp sensing. Good luck.

Your English has been better than most. Many times when vendors make SS coils like what you have, they use Nickel legs on the coil, then SS for the actual coil. If you take an old coil apart and see a tiny solder bump where they attached Nickel for each leg (so 2 per coil) we can get it to work but the actual temps will be off. OR I can PM you material file to try in TC.

I have no idea what you mean by that. You had both a 316 AND a 316L material type and you're switching between the two? Well, you have 2 solid 30 watt puffs shown. If your mod shows "OFF", it did that because your coil is not TC controlable(even if it is SS the ohms are not rising enough), and so it fires at the power you set and your mod has turned TC off.

That looked like a TC puff (barely) to me. If you were to now click 'temp' and 'temp set' you should see the 2 red lines. I find it hard to believe you need that much power to get that coil to hit that max 425F. (actually it barely hit 300F when you ended the puff, but with your battery not being able to keep up). As your coil cools even more, that .313Ω (cold ohms) might drop even lower. I see what you mean about the amount of rubber, if anything you might want to let dotmod know these new coils are inferior.

Just checked on my own. My first is in watts mode and you can tell the rise but it's not as easy. The second while in TC mode shows the rise better. This is an SS coil.

Change to a TC (SS316) profile on your mod. Let the coil cool down (like 10 minutes) and ONLY enable 'Power' 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms'. Do another screenshot. Right now I saw no increase in the resistance between cold and live (and with all these different boards I believe 'live' always showed) but I could be wrong or it's not SS or it's not cold. Having said all that, Device Monitor says you've already done > 40K TC puffs?

And what would that be? No DNA mod detects material type at all. YOU have to change that. If you post a full 'device monitor' screenshot, showing 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms' during a puff it would be more helpful. EDIT: Click/enable 'cold ohms' and 'live ohms' for them to show.

You'd need to contact the manufacturer, or google if anyone makes aftermarket replacements.

There is a conformal coating on the board to help protect the components, but ejuice can deteriorate a connection at the solder joints/connectors. Did you meter out the connections identified by Dwcraig like he suggested.

What type of operating system? Windows, MacOS, or Linux? Try a reboot of your PC and try to plug in to your PC directly, not using a hub.

That seems to be a cable or charging issue. Here's a link of others and what they did/found https://bit.ly/4cf3AiT

I'd say contact your place of purchase, or the manufacturer of the external board. Good luck.

So many different things are possible. Try to plug in to your PC directly, not using a hub. Try different cables.