Wayneo

With all that info, I'd start by using steam-engine, ohms law, and see if you're banging off the 6V output voltage limit,

Original wire profiles from steam-engine .......... none officially, but you can set and see that 'word' as one of your small display options.

Unlike when you floor the gas pedal, and immediately breaking the speed limit, or turning on your electric stove on high and it immediately glows bright red Display is 'live'. It's all good

Up to 600F or 300C. Try 'em out yourself for any juice. Different temps can mute, accentuate, or even burn certain flavors.

Lock mod (5 quick fire button clicks OR whatever number if you changed that. THEN hold 'fire' and 'up' button. That's a toggle for lock/unlock.

@MacVap Finally an official answer from @John The question musta gotten lost in all the excitement.

The displayed value is the 'cold ohms' value at 70F and will NOT change on your mod display like you imagine. Device Monitor will show you it's changing, or vaping in regular wattage mode will show it. Perfectly normal.

@EDMKEV Looks great. I think your Stabwood is from BDC like mine. What size battery is in it?

@Fabian9988 Yes, that liitle jump is Evolv's doing. Glad you got it sorted. @Lowbytes Other than the odd spelling error in your last post, I would never have guessed that you weren't fluid in English

Please let us know the results.

@Fabian9988 I applaud all your efforts, and if you will validate your VS is actually .007, then your Rebel value would also be correct. @Lowbytes No offense my good man, I was merely saying you could run with this ......... you know the old "Too many cooks can spoil the broth" saying, or something like that. We're all here to learn and assist each other. Here's the post I promised, and notice he used a straight 75.

Seems very high compared to the mods I own. Your VS was probably just populated from the values obtained from a batch, but you can test it using this method to validate, after setting it to 0 and then uploading. AA has not worked for me with the copper shorting tool since Feb 2016 on any 2xx series board, first going down to .006 followed by a ?. Now with the latest escribe v1.2 sp5.2, it goes down to .005 IIRC, without ever a ? Wondering what you'll look at here? Aren't your thoughts backwards here? You can bottom out the VS, but you cannot on the Rebel, meaning you're guaranteed a stronger connection on the Rebel. I'll defer to @Lowbytes who has the entire German community behind him, and even @LeeWB3 here, the creator of those 4 fine calibration videos. My last comment .......... a lower than actual value, or 0, is better than an incorrect high value

If your bedroom wall is still intact ......... I'm voting safe

So your Rebel has not been setup. Search the forum for giz_method mod resistance and hopefully you'll find it. Otherwise I'll find it and send you a link tomorrow. It'll take about 15 minutes tops to find and set (10 of 'em to make sure your coil is back at ambient temperature. Your still perfectly fine to use your mod. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) without pictures A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of TC wire across an RDA build decks posts. (like a baseball shape, not a coil) In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device ... attach deck with coil or wire to mod ...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes) Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms The difference will be the Mod Resistance..

Fire up escribe. For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture Go to 'Mod' tab. What is the 'Mod Resistance' value for each mod?

Are you sure, or perhaps missing an extra '0' in there for mod resistance. On ALL my mods in use (7), I think my highest for mod resistance is .007 checked 2 different ways.

I also use Ti01, but only when I can get at the screws easily as mine tend to loosen quickly. Although I prefer SS430 for quicker ramp up, I'm thinking of sticking to 316 only because of availability in different gauges, and not having to remember what material type is in each atty. I find SS a cleaner taste or should I say tasteless. Well, that magic number, according to evolv IIRC is 470F, before 'bad' starts occurring.

No worries, and I'm glad you went and proved it for yourself. TC is NOT the panacea some might think. I'll usually vape a new juice in Wattage mode before moving to TC. I have a minty watermelon juice that in TC I totally lose the mint at 420F. And a peanut butter vape, where at certain temps the peanuts will taste burnt, not the whole juice, just the peanuts. But overall, TC will give you a consistent experience and no dry hits. Enjoy your mod and TC.

That ^^ is correct That ^^ is wrong. But who am I? So don't believe me. Go simulate build 2 different coils of your same wire type in Wire wizard, look at the res factor at different temps for each and compare, then come back and apologize.

Leaking or liquid inside the enclosure?

TC is material specific. NOT number of cores, build, or gauge. Just wire type. There's no value/need to complicate matters. Looking at the material profile of the wire, and the resistance change from base/cold ohms to 'while firing' you should be able to do some math gymnastics to find the answer.

Advice - Link it up to escribe. Run Atomizer Analyzer to validate your build is stable. Make sure you're using a TC Profile. Monitor vape in Device Monitor.

Themes -> No Custom Screens can be setup for each different profile definitely for non C devices. And YOU will need to change the Profile.

This sounds like it could be battery/connection issue you're experiencing. Is your battery new/used, on Mooch's recommended list?

How about post 1 right here