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Wayneo

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Everything posted by Wayneo

  1. Contact Vaporshark while it's still within warranty. "All Vapor Shark manufactured devices are covered by a 120 day limited warranty."
  2. I'd open the mod and check the charging cable is plugged in properly while apart, and that it will charge. I do believe you're now into recovery charge mode territory. Are you now on your 2nd battery with only 5K puffs?
  3. Couple things. Look at your voltages now, I'd stop using the mod till you get this sorted. What version of escribe? If it were charging, that 'Mode' (bottom left would say charging). You might wanna check that
  4. @shehabismail In escribe v2.x there's a clear disable/enable USB charging. Can you post a FULL printscreen please. Does the mod display show a charging icon, after say 1 minute? Apart from the thicker +/- battery connector, did you plug in the smaller one (usually white) with 4 thinner wires?
  5. .... could (should?) tweak .... safer <- Yes, but IMHO they're good as is. .... a counterfeit battery that's only 10amps <- Mod will catch it with weak/check battery. .... Maybe changing the battery cutoff <- Really conseravtive default of 3.09V. 'Soft' (transient sag at firing) is the keyword. My Lipo's sag ~.1-.2v per cell@>130w, but round cells more ~.2-.3v, so I'll lower that 3.09v to 2.7-2.9v depending on mod and battery. Take that as impending 'time to change' warning. I never use % as it's just based on Wh's you input, and prefer pack voltage instead. Welcome
  6. Did you read the post just before yours? Worth a try.
  7. I'd suggest you open a trouble ticket with Evolv for the Micro USB. They will guide you. Ideally, they'll offer to replace the board. EVOLV HELP DESK - https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/?a=add
  8. If the spare you ordered has the same connector(s) as the original in there, YES, it should be a simple plug in. NO to the mini USB.
  9. G'day. Maybe someone else can chime in. Enjoy your mod
  10. OK, just put my .18 Ti coil to 220F at 70watts, no preheat. Similar to you it dropped to 4 watts, no vape. Back up to ~400F, and there it was ....... vapor.
  11. YES!! Clean it as best as you can ........... everywhere. Isopropyl alchol. If you're brave enough to open it up, even the buttons come apart to clean. Blow it out with compressed air if you have it and even lay it flat (vent slats down on one side) while blowing in the other side.
  12. If it was a one off, I wouldn't worry about it. And like you mentioned, that printscreen looks fine. Using Ti, with my single battery DNA's I'll turn off all preheat settings, but with multi battery I can blast it full and not encounter this 1 watt issue. Where do you keep seeing 1 watt? If you move your pointer over any area of Device Monitor, it will display the values at that time (like over on the right at the end of the puff) As far as your .ecig file 'watts' is showing you have it set as tc sensing with full blown curves. You shouldn't need multiple profiles for Ti like .1, .2, .3, as TC is wire specific. Your printscreen (Profile 6) you 'lock' the ohms (is that because it's that Smok atty) ?
  13. I've found Titanium coils loosen up in some atty's, so you ought to check for loose coonections (no comment on Smok). This 200 and 300, is that °F or °C? I don't understand this at all. Did you see this in 'Device Monitor', and Max temp is the temp you set it for? A printscreen of Device Monitor while firing would help. OK, looks like you're talking °F, and I don't usually get any vapor at that low temp. So now you're just using straight watts with that Titanium wire? I DO NOT have this understanding.
  14. Choose your battery from Mooch's reccommended list based on your preferences. mAh for more energy, more sag OR amps for less energy, less sag (which effectively increases run time compared to to the published mAh number).
  15. @denniz One final comment on mod res. I also have and use that Copper Plug. Mine all range from .002 - .007 I never commented because I totally felt that could be a valid value. Believe me, I get enough flak bringing up that feature around here. Ho! Ho! Ho!
  16. Have a Merry Christmas all, and enjoy your mods. Maybe I'll see ya's next year. 🍪 🥛 🎅 🎄 ⛄ ❄🎄
  17. @Jo Kuhl Did you measure yours with a copper plug? And you do realize every mod can be different.
  18. Sorry, but your numbers don't make sense, at all. Here's a much easier way, using your initial 230C printscreen, with your values quoted. 230C=446F 230+3=233C=451F 230+5=235C=455F 230+10=240C=464F Things are not as dismal as you may have thought. Your 3c was only 5f difference (similar to ours), and the worst case was 18F difference You probably saw the 3C difference after a vape or two.
  19. Device Monitor -> View -> Set Time to like 5 seconds, the screen will be screaming fast. Take Vape. Pause screen and scroll backwards. Move your pointer around the vaping characteristics and it will show values.
  20. Dunno, but it's very quick, and that's a pretty tiny screen. You should trust the hard numbers. Here's an alternate printscreen with the bump shown. Mod set for 440F, hit 444F.
  21. And you're going backwards by doing this KEYWORD is 'soft'
  22. Usually as it ramps up, and then drops to your set temp. Usually due to a high punch ... say 11, and on a subsequent vape, will get lower. Also known as the Karloz bump. That 215.5C for temp is the average of your vape which would include the ramp UP to your set temp.
  23. Hotay, I only use a fan half the time anyway, but that doesn't matter. I looked at csv, and it showed 100% at 4.21 volts. You can change that to 4.20 and your icon will then show 100%. Don't know what your 'cell soft cutoff' is set at, but 2.7-2.9v or even a bit lower, will give you more run time. Authentic 5A's are a solid battery with less sag than a VTC6.
  24. An accurate Battery Profile only affects your Icon. BUT you can run your own Battery Analyzer which will be guaranteed accurate for your mod and pair of batteries. All you need is an RDA, 4 loops of wire, fan, and an hour. Welcome
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