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Wayneo

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Everything posted by Wayneo

  1. Yes, some have used colored film to change text on the black and white boards. Depending on the thickness, all your buttons and USB connector might be a smidgen more flush to the housing
  2. Never ripped one apart so you'll just have to see. IMHO it's really there so it doesn't move during re-assembly, but it's not a requirement. You might find the thinnest double edged tape. Isopropyl alcohol with a qtip works for nooks and crannies. Wipe it all down. 👍
  3. There are pictures in this link. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71319-how-to-change-a-screen-on-lostvape-paranormal/?tab=comments#comment-934609 The cover hinges at each side where the ribbon goes underneath the connector. Go to the opposite end, and lift/push the cover towards the ribbon. I think I've used a fingernail or tweezer at the edge of the cover. It will stand vertical to the board. Make sure to slide the new cable in straight and far enough. When you push that cover down, you'll hear/feel it click in.
  4. The best way to find that answer would be to ask them. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=3 In my 5+ years with their products, they don't peddle in ghost/future announcements/rumors.
  5. I see what you're saying luca. It could be so many things, from dirty threading or clamps on the goon or 510 positive pin or the wire or coil. Or just that resistance You could try the goon with a single coil first, or dual at higher Ω's Failing that, with this being used before you, you could go under File -> Save, and keep a copy of this entire setup, then reset defaults which resets everything back to the Evolv defaults and start from a known place. I do not believe there were any meaningful changes with that mod when new from the LV. About having to create a second ID. Why couldn't you log in?
  6. Let your mod rest for 15 minutes, then measure the resistance of the coil and set it. Then; Using escribe -> Device Monitor, click (enable) on that checkbox called 'live ohms' (Over on the right) while taking a puff. Post a full printscreen afterward showing that line Edit: One last thing, are you in the profile called 'Replay'?
  7. Go look at that Gauges theme, as shown on this site. See that image with like 17 little screens? If you look closely on the "USB" screen (middle row) it shows what options you have to show (just guessing). Maybe you want to enable more, on your mod. Now see how it's called USB, apparently that on your main menu, 4 options down (or 1 up from the bottom). Good luck.
  8. No key sequence. The non color boards are always reading the live resistance. The easiest way I've found is to remove the atty, hit the fire button, replace atty. It's really a rare occasion I ever do that, except during a re-wick or new atty out of habit.
  9. There is absolutely nothing special or unique to the Drones' button operations. All 250C boards operate the same across all manufacturers. The only thing odd about the Drone is that both batteries are inserted in the same direction.
  10. Man, IIRC I just used Hohm life and the 'all' option. Shows 8, I left out the extension. Thought it was more earlier, might try hohm csv as well. Edit: Don't beat yourself up, I wish 'all' was the default, personally.
  11. I did a quick search up there ↗️, and there are > 15 mentions for them. You can do the same and see if a csv was ever created. Failing that, you have the ability to run your own 'battery analyzer', guaranteed accurate for your pair. Your mod only uses it for display of the charge level, and does not affect the operation of your mod at all Good luck and welcome 👋
  12. Sure, you can use Ni90 in wattage mode. Where have you heard evolv say otherwise❓ Same for Kanthal and Nichrome 80. All these 3 are straight watts and NO MATERIAL FILE REQUIRED.
  13. There is no issue with your mod. It is the nature of the display. I have noticed that the colors and fonts used can affect it more or less.
  14. No can do at this version. That toggle, like @skineedog mentioned will eventually timeout, but its usage would be to toggle on when charging, toggle off when done charigng. If you don't want to see the blue, delete that firing option. But seriously, if you can see the blue glow, you could learn to embrace the pulse while charging, and the green at the end. Useless commentary Do you really needs to "see and read" the input current and the voltage of each cell, or in reality just a casual glance? Or ask yourself, what would or do you do if you see the input current drop from 2A, to 1A, to .4A? or the same for battery voltages slightly imbalanced. I will admit that on my non color mods I glance at the lightning bolt, and rarely at any other field. Anyway, I hope that first paragraph helped.
  15. My mistake on the checkboxes. I meant to add temp and temp set, but nevermind. Updated the pic now. You might have re-read your resistance before doing that printscreen because there was no power drop at all shown, or maybe you weren't actually taking a puff. Locking your cold resistance had nothing to do with fixing it. Enjoy your mod 👋
  16. Post a picture of Device Monitor while firing. Post a printscreen/snap afterwards. On the left side, have the following 8 boxes ticked.
  17. Sure, a couple different ways. There's a whole page setup for pulsing the LED while charging in Theme Designer. Drill a tiny hole in your enclosure so you can see the on-board LED while charging, or use a clear fire button Create a toggle (or field) in Theme Designer. Look at the field below the highlighted one.
  18. Welcome, There are numerous youtube videos on the workings of these boards. DJLSB vapes has some good ones. Here's a link to the manual. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75.pdf 1. No, but there are different states of sleep. You can't turn them off, but they do power down to a very low draw, listening/waiting for a button press. 2 Also different ways/things to lock, like your fire button while in your backpack, but your screen will come on, then fade or go off, unless you're in stealth mode. All those (Brightness/Fading) are in escribe -> screen. Button presses in Theme Designer. Most features and operations are the same between board type (color and non color), with only a few differences such as display items while charging on the 75. AND the search feature works here 👋
  19. Read this post (below). Thatguyswain is/was an evolv employee. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/68884-therion-bf-always-hot-drains-batt
  20. Open an official help desk ticket and explain problem https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1 Point them here as it might be useful for them to see what has been tried. Here is this link. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71510-้how-to-fix-eeprom
  21. At this point I have NO CLUE what version(s) of escribe you have installed. Delete all copies drom your PC so you can start fresh. That was not for color mods Download and install the link below. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT_ServicePack.exe Make sure to open the proper folder for your mod board type.
  22. Just install SP19 (link in my sig) and then the most current for your mod. Edit: 'Punch' is a term used for both TC and non TC material (wire) For TC it's "how much" to preheat before quitting preheat parameters. For non-TC it's "how much" to Boost (increase) the wattage before dropping back to the set watts
  23. Great news. Now go make your changes one at a time, and after each change do an upload to mod. Although you can make many changes at a time, something is wrong. When you find the offending change, let us know. Personally, I'd do them in this order. Escribe/Firmware then mod/materials, then theme. 👍
  24. Under the 'Help' menu, down at the bottom, the mod has been creating backups for you. See if you can restore to a time before you attempted your changes.
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