Wayneo

Welcome 👋. First, you do not need to post your same issue 3 times. Your first 2 have been hidden. What material (wire) are you using in your atty? Run Atomizer Analyzer from within escribe and tell me how much the resistance is fluctuating. What do you mean by 'press the watt Fire'? What were you trying to do? Is this your first color DNA mod?

Great job @jinx'd 👍

Here are the specs on the connector you need for the 75C. Amphenol FCI SFVL 0.5mm Pitch 8 Way Right Angle SMT Male FPC Connector, ZIF Bottom Contact Mfr. Part No. 59453-081110EDHLF

I must be confused about the screens, but Isopropyl alcohol with a qtip. Just make sure the cable is straight, pushed in, and you hear/feel the click.

Pictures 1672 - 1675. Instructions 14-16. As far as wiping things down did you also wipe that zif connector connections? I think around 8-10 of them. Maybe there was juice on those also.

Did ya look at the pics? There's room under there (away from the fire button), it'll lay flat. We've been doing that for 5+ years 👍

@jinx'd 🤣I merged backwards, but all fixed up (just keep things clean) 😎

I merged this post into your original thread from earlier. It's all the same topic. If you followed that link I gave you, right there in the instructions it shows to bend the cable under the holder away from the fire button.

Yes, some have used colored film to change text on the black and white boards. Depending on the thickness, all your buttons and USB connector might be a smidgen more flush to the housing

Never ripped one apart so you'll just have to see. IMHO it's really there so it doesn't move during re-assembly, but it's not a requirement. You might find the thinnest double edged tape. Isopropyl alcohol with a qtip works for nooks and crannies. Wipe it all down. 👍

There are pictures in this link. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71319-how-to-change-a-screen-on-lostvape-paranormal/?tab=comments#comment-934609 The cover hinges at each side where the ribbon goes underneath the connector. Go to the opposite end, and lift/push the cover towards the ribbon. I think I've used a fingernail or tweezer at the edge of the cover. It will stand vertical to the board. Make sure to slide the new cable in straight and far enough. When you push that cover down, you'll hear/feel it click in.

The best way to find that answer would be to ask them. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=3 In my 5+ years with their products, they don't peddle in ghost/future announcements/rumors.

I see what you're saying luca. It could be so many things, from dirty threading or clamps on the goon or 510 positive pin or the wire or coil. Or just that resistance You could try the goon with a single coil first, or dual at higher Ω's Failing that, with this being used before you, you could go under File -> Save, and keep a copy of this entire setup, then reset defaults which resets everything back to the Evolv defaults and start from a known place. I do not believe there were any meaningful changes with that mod when new from the LV. About having to create a second ID. Why couldn't you log in?

Let your mod rest for 15 minutes, then measure the resistance of the coil and set it. Then; Using escribe -> Device Monitor, click (enable) on that checkbox called 'live ohms' (Over on the right) while taking a puff. Post a full printscreen afterward showing that line Edit: One last thing, are you in the profile called 'Replay'?

Go look at that Gauges theme, as shown on this site. See that image with like 17 little screens? If you look closely on the "USB" screen (middle row) it shows what options you have to show (just guessing). Maybe you want to enable more, on your mod. Now see how it's called USB, apparently that on your main menu, 4 options down (or 1 up from the bottom). Good luck.

No key sequence. The non color boards are always reading the live resistance. The easiest way I've found is to remove the atty, hit the fire button, replace atty. It's really a rare occasion I ever do that, except during a re-wick or new atty out of habit.

There is absolutely nothing special or unique to the Drones' button operations. All 250C boards operate the same across all manufacturers. The only thing odd about the Drone is that both batteries are inserted in the same direction.

Man, IIRC I just used Hohm life and the 'all' option. Shows 8, I left out the extension. Thought it was more earlier, might try hohm csv as well. Edit: Don't beat yourself up, I wish 'all' was the default, personally.

I did a quick search up there ↗️, and there are > 15 mentions for them. You can do the same and see if a csv was ever created. Failing that, you have the ability to run your own 'battery analyzer', guaranteed accurate for your pair. Your mod only uses it for display of the charge level, and does not affect the operation of your mod at all Good luck and welcome 👋

Go ask them 😂🤣

Sure, you can use Ni90 in wattage mode. Where have you heard evolv say otherwise❓ Same for Kanthal and Nichrome 80. All these 3 are straight watts and NO MATERIAL FILE REQUIRED.

There is no issue with your mod. It is the nature of the display. I have noticed that the colors and fonts used can affect it more or less.

No can do at this version. That toggle, like @skineedog mentioned will eventually timeout, but its usage would be to toggle on when charging, toggle off when done charigng. If you don't want to see the blue, delete that firing option. But seriously, if you can see the blue glow, you could learn to embrace the pulse while charging, and the green at the end. Useless commentary Do you really needs to "see and read" the input current and the voltage of each cell, or in reality just a casual glance? Or ask yourself, what would or do you do if you see the input current drop from 2A, to 1A, to .4A? or the same for battery voltages slightly imbalanced. I will admit that on my non color mods I glance at the lightning bolt, and rarely at any other field. Anyway, I hope that first paragraph helped.

My mistake on the checkboxes. I meant to add temp and temp set, but nevermind. Updated the pic now. You might have re-read your resistance before doing that printscreen because there was no power drop at all shown, or maybe you weren't actually taking a puff. Locking your cold resistance had nothing to do with fixing it. Enjoy your mod 👋

Post a picture of Device Monitor while firing. Post a printscreen/snap afterwards. On the left side, have the following 8 boxes ticked.