Im over it.

[DDolan]

It's been 3 months and hours and hours of serious time and effort. Im over it im so f***ing over temp control. The dna is so god damn temperamental and inconsistent all I do is spend my free time rebuilding and rewicking it's so rediculous. Something works well for a day then it changes it starts to burn or I do a build and then when I do that build again it doesn't work the same it did for the past week. And don't get me started on the ohms. The ohms change the slightest bit and it throws off ecerything. Im about ready to snap. I don't even know what questions to ask anymore to help me it's all so frustrating.

[JimzDogz]

I feel you. I've been using a Russian 91% on my HC VT200 and it is very finicky. A couple of times it has suddenly started acting up when I would fire it. Looking at the screen while firing, it would fire and come up to temp. setting then the watts would drop to zero then bounce around .2-.4 watts then stop firing. It turns out that it just wanted more juice, even though I could see some juice in the tank. Now, it won't come out of sleep mode unless I plug in the charging cord. But after plugging it in only for a second it starts working until  sit it down and it goes back to sleep. The only thing I can think of is I unplugged it from E-scribe without first hitting the disconnect button. Good luck I wish I could have been more help, but I' only a novice as well.

[bmclaurin]

Sorry to hear that, DDolan. My experience has been much more positive than yours. What TC wire material are you using? I've found working with nickel to be a bit tedious, but titanium OTOH has worked quite well for me. Also, have you tried a few different atty's? Or perhaps the atomizer analyzer? Regardless, I hear you on being frustrated. TC in general is great on the one hand, but sometimes I just prefer the simplicity of my VW or mechanical devices.

[DDolan]

Yeah Jim dogs that sucks man I would look into contacting them if it doesn't improve soon. But yeah otherwise I've been using different wire with different RDAs with different tanks with different CSV files that I've made and uploaded into escribe. Everything I use is authentic Aeolus v2 Kennedy v2 twisted messes vector etc. and over all my Exp has just been flaky and inconsistant. I don't even know what questions to ask anymore. I've been primarily using nickel/ nichrome coils cause I don't wanna just vape round wire I like doing claptons so I build TCRs to fix that. I tried g plat and no matter how I designed the Csv it didn't seem to work that well either burning or not reaching desired temp. I wanna try this new wire I've been hearing about nef30 or something like that heard good things. But over all my biggest issue is the inconsistency esp in the resistance. And ilike I said my RDAs are good and authentic and I've been building for a long time so I know it's not my work.

[blueridgedog]

Atomizers with variable resistance will be a nightmare.  I have six GT's.  Two are a PITA.   Four are solid.

I have moved to the Aromamizer...always solid. 

If your atomizer has variable resistance enough to through off the calculation, then use ohms lock after putting on a new build or replace it.  I and a good friend of mine have trashed at least 10 GTs and 5 GT2s because they can't work with TC mods.  

TLDR:  The chip requires a stable atomizer.  Get one.

[Millah]

Yep. It has everything to do with the atomizer. Your mods 510 connector also plays a factor. If there isn't a rock solid stable connection, then TC effectively won't work.

What I've found is that atomizers with overly adjustable 510's just don't have stable connections. If the 510 pin screws all the way down as far as it can go, and it still protrudes past the threads, then it should get a better connection. But atomizers where you can really screw the 510 pin down, to the point where it goes beyond the threads and no longer makes a connection, then I find that those kind don't really have the most solid connection. The 510 pin needs to be tightened down as far as it can go, and still protrude to make a connection.

Escribe comes with an atomizer analyzer tool for a reason. Use it. The Russian 91% is one of the atomizers I've found that doesn't have a stable connection. The KFL however does, due to non-adjustable 510.

I really feel like adjustable 510's are something that needs to be retired. There is no longer any purpose. Its not 2013 anymore with mods having fixed 510s. Every modern mod comes with a spring loaded connector. There's no need for the atomizer to have adjustments. The atomizer needs a solid connection.

[Jaquith]

Titanium and stable Atty's (RTA's, RDA's and Tanks) is the solution; most all RDA's are very stable. I use Titan Wires 24 gauge Titanium Grade 1 wire, I know it works so if I have a problem then it's the Atty. Pretty much any Mod with Titanium support does a decent job. The DNA 200 is setup for Ni200 with crazy preheat settings .. so that's where the DNA 200 isn't for everyone. However, if you're inquisitive and like to tinker it's an outstanding hobbyist board! :-)

[VapingBad]

Pre heat is an awesome feature, most important IMO is to max the punch rather than the watts (gets closer to the temp, smoother & more instant vape), though I have to turn the watts down with ss rope wicks or I can get archs (80-120 W), but always max it on cotton.
YMMV

[Jaquith]

Yeah if temperature accuracy doesn't matter crank up your Preheat. Aggressive Preheat is more like Overheat followed by cooling. The Preheat needs some tweaking and not exceed the set temperature which it easily does. Phil, I and others knows it does this and it's a bug or at the very least needs a setting to either over heat which it does now and another to correct heat which now is a matter of excessive tweaking.

[VapingBad]

Never had that issue and logically I don't see how it would exceed temp if everything was right, maybe you have hot spot issues, but I only use Ni200 as DNAs were designed for.

[Jaquith]

It's not my coiling or anything I'm doing incorrectly. If your senses as in mouth fail to tell the difference then Phil showed that problem in his 4 (3 with a 2 part) part video. It's especially noticeable in the 500° F and up temperature range, I'm a 520° F give or take guy. People vaping in the 420°~480° F, give or take, may not notice the difference. Obviously SS wire it's more obvious to everyone.

[VapingBad]

I don't think it is fair to call it "crazy preheat settings" they are brilliant for what they were designed to do. 

[Jaquith]

30W Ni200 coil with a 200W Preheat .. yeah that's crazy.

[VapingBad]

Jaquith said:

30W Ni200 coil with a 200W Preheat .. yeah that's crazy.

Why, it works great it is temp limited and unlikely to ever get to 200 W so you should think of it as "up to 200 W".  In over a year with DNA40s and over 3 months with DNA200 the only issue I have ever had with prehest is arching using ss rope wicks which is easily fixed.

[awsum140]

Jaquith, what atomizer(s) have you been using and have you tried more than one particular atomizer brand/model?  I use Fogger, FEV V3 and Aromamizer with no problems with the Aromamizer being the most "rock solid", the other two can vary .01 ohms or so occasionally.  Then again, my taste buds are shot from too many years of the real thing.

[Jaquith]

The easiest question is what I don't have in regards to Atty's. Keep in mind I have 6 DNA 200's. So if the question is that you're trying to ask me is if I have accurate Atty's then the obvious answer is yes. I'm the Temperature Control guy that has appeared on The vApe Team, Vape Miser, etc. I suggest you try other metals and purchase a Meter and Probe. It most certainly flies right past the set Temperature if you have a rediculous setting. I can taste / sense the difference between 520 and 540 F. Also I don't mindlessly set the the wattage, on every coil(s) I build I know the Heat Coefficient and set the Wattage accordingly; examples: SS316L http://i.imgur.com/WLM2vWd.png Ni200 http://i.imgur.com/ELEsdam.png Ti http://i.imgur.com/llHAIhT.png Most every early adopter knows how bad it use to be, it's better now, but it absolutely jumps past the set Temperature .. period. Undeniable fact.

[Spector NS5 RD]

if you want a rock solid atty you could drop off a roof and still be accurate to the milliohm, get rid of yer 510 connection and sweat (solder) leads directly from the atty 510 pin and threads to the board. then solder yer wire, ti, ni, nife, ss, etc  to the pos and neg posts of yer rda, rta etc. lol problem solved. i have a dna 40 device where i made it a solid, non spring loaded, 510 connection for added stability. connectivity and conductivity are key here. so many people think their builds are "solid" when in fact they are not. TC tips: periodically clean 510 connections, connectors with iso alc, make sure your post screws are snug; after every tank emptying if need be, also helps running spaced coils with any material; room temperature is yer friend when it comes to initial resistance readings/locking. these are most of the things i follow and worked thus far since owning a dna 40 back in oct 2014. tc aint perfect by far, but results can be repeatable if not accurate.
 

[retird]

Interesting reading....  I've no problem with overshooting temp.  It is just a matter of fine tuning temp, wattage, pre-heat, and punch.  Just because you have 200 watts pre-heat there is no need to leave it set at 200 watts and adjusting punch also can help. 

[Wo0d643]

I haven't had any luck at all.  I'm vaping kanthal claptons in my clone Haze dripper tank thingy.  I cant take it anymore.  I had a few good experinces with the DNA40 but most of the time it was "god damnit where is the kanthal".  The only authentic stuff I use is the subtanks, I also have some stuff from fasttech.  None of it works.  Legit or not temp control is a finicky bitch.  

Last attempt was with sweet spot vapors Ti.  It doesn't work.  I loaded the csv and all that.  Right at first it was great then I put my kid down for bed and came back to hot legs and burnt.  Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs, Hot legs.  I gave up. 

[Wo0d643]

@millah

I'm with you on the adjustable 510.  Its a silly thing that has always been shotty.  It shouldn't matter.  I have a few attties ive been working with and they suck with TC.  They move but they are tight.  I checked everything that I use with escribe.  They are all consistent when I tighten them down then unscrew them from my lava box.  Always the same reading as I went tight and loose. Yet, I still cannot use TC. 

Its a problem with the whole system.  The 510, the wiring, the mods negative part, THE BUILD!, the CSV file, wicking, <the screws in the atty, <post holes.  Something I think everyone neglects to consider is the way we connect our wire to the atty.  The chain is only as stonrg as the weakest link.

[Podunk Steam]

The atomizers names have not been mentioned in this thread to protect the innocent 

Bum de bump bump

[VapingBad]

Jaquith said:

Most every early adopter knows how bad it use to be, it's better now, but it absolutely jumps past the set Temperature .. period. Undeniable fact.

Never had that and not seen a significant number of posts here or anywhere else about it.

[awsum140]

I was just trying to clarify some of the variables.

I only have three DNA200's running at the moment and have yet to experience overshoot that is significant, more than maybe 10 degrees for a graph tick.  Then again I don't monitor constantly while vaping with them, that can interfere seriously with driving, and like I said my taste buds are probably shot anyway.

[CloudChaser]

The atomizer is key here. And tanks with intermediate pin connections are the worst for any temp control mod. I have used Nickel and the resistance varies too much for me. Besides it has a funky taste. I use Ti Surgical grade 1 and my atty of choice is the Steam Crave Aromamizer. The post screw connections are solid. 0.01 ohm variation is the maximum I ever see with the Steam Crave tank. I have spent a too much money on tanks trying to find one that would work well on the DNA 200 and Steam Crave has it and the they run out of stock quick! I have NOT had ONE DNA 200, 40 issue since I started using the Aromamizer.

The Kanger Sub Tank is the worst. I had to change my 510 connector spring to get them to work half way decent. IT's THE TANK!!!

[mactavish]

Thought this message I left in an ECF forum pertains to the preheat settings. I have not figured out how to tame the hot legs I get when doing a build where the lead legs are long and exposed. I'm a newb in building. Turning off all preheat settings was the only current solution I could find to tame the hot legs and actual cotton fire issues I've had, on these squonker type atomizers. No issues with preheat in my normal STM builds. PASTED POST: Well I just spent an hour building a dual coil for the Skyfall, which is a pump tank below, that feeds the RDA, that sits above it, basically a tank squonker. Annealed the 28 gauge titanium, then made the two coils, slow pulsed them on the mod. Wicked with KGD. Test firing at my normal STM setting of 470f, at 25 watts, with the top cap off I could see red hot legs that are long going into the posts. Just on two, not all four. This is the same issue I had with similar build on the Fountain, which is a similar tank squonker, it uses a squeeze bottle, like a Reo. These red hot legs can and will catch the cotton on fire, as I've seen it, and of course makes for a nasty vape. I spent so much time making this build, I did not want to give up. I had a feeling the normal preheat of 100 watts on my Vaporshark DNA200, may be the cause, as that's when the leads go hot, on first button fire. Went into Escribe, and turned OFF all preheat settings. No more red hot legs! Seems to be working. I did have to lower my temperature from my normal Ti of 470f, to 350f, and increased my wattage from 25 to 35. BUILD: Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread. According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts. I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!