bmclaurin

Ok thanks. Anyone know why this field is omitted for the 75’s?

I’m running escribe 2.0 with my 75C and noticed the Mod tab no longer has a field for Wh capacity of battery. I’m using the Manufacturer interface. Has that been left out intentionally? If so, why? Frankly, I never understood how that setting was used by the chip to estimate remaining battery capacity anyway because it seemed to me that state of charge could be reliably estimated from the discharge curve (.csv) alone.

Mooch rates it as a 25A 2500mAH cell. Obviously, usable capacity will depend on rate of discharge. Mooch's test results indicate ~2300mAH @ 10A, ~2140mAH @ 25A. His tests use a cutoff of 2.8v, so your results will likely vary if you are using a different cutoff voltage in your mod. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/sony-vtc5a-2500mah-18650-bench-test-results-a-fantastic-25a-battery.746719/

I didn't see one posted here for this cell, so I ran it myself on a single 18650 DNA 75C squonk mod (Therion 75C BF). I used a 60W discharge because that is the power I tend to use most often with this mod. My soft cutoff is set at 2.75v. LG HD2C (1) (tested at 60W).csv.txt

Sounds like your lipo pack might be bad. Do you have access to another voltmeter to verify the pack and/or cell voltage. If it's truly at ~1.4-1.5v per cell, I personally would not attempt to recharge it. Replacement packs are fairly inexpensive, or maybe the manufacturer would help you out.

EDIT: Deleted post as others had already responded so my response was duplicative.

Are those measurements from the device monitor? If so, almost certainly a contact issue, as those are practically impossible voltages.

3.1v depleted at rest sounds about right due to voltage sag under load. Assuming your cells are reading 4.20v each in the device monitor when fully charged, you likely just need to tweak your Wh setting on the Mod tab and maybe double check your battery .csv file.

Seems a little high to me. Not sure how hard you tend to vape them, but at ~10A, Mooch's tests (over at ECF) yielded 2750mah (down to 2.8v). So they're probably closer to ~19.8-20.3 wh in 2-cell configuration. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/lg-hg2-20a-3000mah-18650-bench-retest-results-a-great-20a-battery.714112/

Well the battery analyzer isn't going to make your battery life any better. But it will make your meter more accurate. In terms of the resistor for the test, anything that will dissipate the load without overheating is fine, but I do believe if you're going to use loops of resistance wire, it would be best to use non-TC wire. John posted somewhere a while back that you want a constant resistance for the test. I use 4 large-ish loops of kanthal in parallel around .3 ohms or so in total. Arrange the loops so there is plenty of free space for the heat to dissipate into the surrounding air. A desktop fan wouldn't hurt because it will heat up a bit.

Also, I suppose I should change the max peak and sustained input current on the mod tab to 15A. Would the combination of these settings (i.e., 120W kanthal power limit and 15A max input current) keep me safe while using 15A cells?

I'm thinking about switching to higher capacity 18650's for my Triade that are only 15A cells. Those should be safe for vaping up to ~120W, which is plenty for me. So I plan to set my kanthal power limit in eScribe to 120 watts. Will this setting also be honored when in TC mode?

Because adding a wire in parallel gives the electricity two paths to follow instead of just one, cutting the resistance in half.

Gotcha. Nothing wrong with that.

Until someone more knowledgeable than I comes along...I guess that's true, but TBH I've never bothered with that. Just load up the .csv for whatever coil material you're using and vape on. As long as you're using standard TC materials, the .csv's on steam-engine are battle tested, and I've never had a problem with them. And when I say "never had a problem with them," I mean that literally. We're talking tens of thousands (probably more) of hits, and never a burnt hit. Not even once. The very few times I've had hits that were obviously too warm, it was not TCR-related; usually it was because of a loose leg or maybe an inaccurate cold ohms measurement or something like that.

I answered my own question. It works! I just used the same method of adding .1 to each point after 382F. Device monitor results are below. And my .csv file is attached if anyone is interested. Nichrome_N80.csv

Anyone tried this with nicrome 80? Most of my non-TC builds are nichrome, which has an ever so slightly larger TFR than kanthal. Wondering what I should change the coefficients by to make it work.

Not sure if this will help or not, but it worked for me. I was having similar issues with my Wismec Releaux DNA 200. It worked fine for a couple months, but then sporadically started not turning on. In my case, it was a battery connection issue, and it was definitely always with the cell that sits "by itself," farthest away from the 510. Upon closer inspection, it appeared that the top deck had gotten bent--by a very very slight amount, mind you--upward, over time. Perhaps I was using cells that were slightly too long, I don't know. But I do know that, upon looking very closely, the bend was definitely there. All I did to "fix" it was to remove the cells, and bend it back straight again by putting a slight amount of downward pressure on the top deck. It has been working perfectly ever since. "Bendgate" LOL

Here is the one for Titanium 1 from steam engine as an example (attached). Hope that helps. Titanium_1.csv

I just looked at the first file you attached. It needs to be comma-delimited. One fairly easy way to do it with steam-engine.org is to go to the Wire Wizard tab, choose your material, then go to the Temperature Control Results box at the top and click on the DNA 200 tab. Then select everything in the box with your mouse and copy it to your clipboard. Then open up Notepad in Windows and paste it into there. Then save that file with a filename of your choice and be sure to give it a .csv filename extension. Then you can import that file into eScribe.

Too many to list. Numerous mech mods. A few Sigeilis, including one of their TC models. An iPV D2. And several others. The DNA 200/133 devices are easily the best of them all IMO. And once you get the hang of eScribe, it's all a piece of cake.

Have you watched the interactive eScribe training video? https://downloads.evolvapor.com/escribe/guide/story.html Lots of helpful info there. If you're building exclusively with Nichrome 80, the wire types shouldn't matter. The chip will sense that it isn't TC wire and default to power (wattage) mode.

Did you run the atomizer analyzer? Also, are you sure you have the correct temperature profile .csv loaded? Sorry if this is too basic of a question, just trying to cover the bases.

I haven't used that tank and/or coil, but I've read some reports of folks having trouble with them. That said, how much are the ohms changing by? If you're talking +/- .01 ohms or so, then I wouldn't worry about it. If it's moving a little bit more than that, you could try locking the resistance once you're confident you have a good cold reading. But if it's all over the place, you could have a defective coil. Have you run the atomizer analyzer in escribe? That tool can be helpful in spotting problem coils.

Yeah nife is next on my list. But having great results with Ti so far and want to use up some of my stock before the next purchase. Of the 3 TC materials I've used thus far, my best results (in order) are Ti, Ni200, SS 316. All have worked but Ti is easiest and most consistent of the 3 for me by quite a big margin.