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awsum140 last won the day on January 7

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About awsum140

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  1. Check this thread on this board -
  2. The problem is that at the level of resistance that is being worked at, even the slight variations from manufacturing, like slightly longer wire, quality of that, specific, piece of wire, quality of the soldering, not to mention the 510 connector, itself, all can make a difference in mod resistance. To be accurate, the only way is to check each mod. It's a shame manufacturers don't do that, but such is the world of profit and loss.
  3. To set the mod resistance you need to run atomizer analyzer with as close to a "dead short" in the 510 connector as possible. There are copper plugs available or an old atomizer base with the center pin soldered to the shell at the bottom will work as well. Atomizer analyzer will display the resistance between the 510 and the board, plus whatever your "dead short" might add, typically under .001 ohms. Enter that number in mod resistance. It may be advantageous to add a little, for example if you read .004, set it to .006 to compensate for accumulating corrosion over time and inconsistencies that do occur. Higher is safe.
  4. I've always found the 510/808/EGO/VGO to be kind of marginal, at best, especially from an electrical standpoint. The variations in center pin projection and exactly how the connection is made between the center pin and the coil become, shall we say, problematic at times especially at the resistance levels that TCR TC works at. A bayonet or twist-lock style connector would eliminate all of those variables as well as provide an easy way to add more connections. Yes, an additional connection could be added, coaxially, to the 510 but even that would require an upgrade by all of us "old time" vapers. It would be a slow, painful at times, process and I can hear the "I'll never change from the 510" tumult even now, but the same was said when VV/VW came along and yet again when TC came along. In the mean time, we're kind of stuck with "fiddly" TC using TCR or the "ping" method. Both are actually approximations but I do know from folks who have conducted empirical testing that DNA chips with reliable wire are pretty darn accurate. Just got to get rid of that fiddle factor somehow.
  5. I guess those variations actually make the case for sticking with titanium, although even there it can vary depending on purity and the other constituents making up the wire. Even with a known, reliable, supplier we are taking it for granted that their wire is always the same which is highly unlikely. Heck, there are, undoubtedly, variations in each roll we buy and use. Hopefully, they're not significant variations. I've felt for a long time that the only true way to get accurate temperature control is with a thermocouple. Unfortunately, that would require a complete change in connectors and exactly how that thermocouple gets inserted into the coil is another problem. On the brighter side, that would allow any wire type to be used and still be accurate even with kanthal. denniz, I agree with you that the factory SS coils are probably fine with devices from the same manufacturer and become problematic on other devices because they are, probably, not the alloy as expected. A vertical coil can cause even more problems.
  6. And that is my point. Unless the alloy is exactly as advertised the TCR is an unknown quantity and, therefor, so is the actual temperature of the coil. Given that Evolv is engineered to be accurate, and safe, while most (certainly not all) others are engineered to be "cost effective" I'll stick with Evolv and known wire types.
  7. Given that the accuracy of TC is determined by the TCR values of the specific alloy in use, "playing" with the TCR, IE guessing or trying different values until you get the vape you want, kind of defeats that accuracy and can lead to significantly different temperatures being present. The result being that device monitor will report the temperature based on that "fudged" TCR and not on reality. That's why I use, strictly, RBA atomizers and wire from known, reliable, sources.
  8. You should be fine at 50 watts. That will reflect actual battery capacity and keep your resistors from getting too hot. Just to be safe, make sure they are on a heat resistant surface.
  9. If this is for a load resistor to run a battery analysis, you sure don't want one in the K ohm range. More like .5 or 1 ohm will do the trick. If you are doing a battery analyzer test, I'd also suggest more than 40 watts. If you run the test at 40 watts that 40 watt resistor will get extremely hot.
  10. Just in case, check/clean the center screw in the 510. I've had some strange things happen when they get dirty. It doesn't take much to make TC not work well.
  11. Given the variety of mah capacity 18650 batteries, and now add in the added capacity of 20700or 21700, is there any plan to add a watt hour setting for those batteries when used in a 75or 75C?
  12. Kanthal doesn't have a .csv because its' resistance is, basically, unchanged at the temperature range that vaping works at. It cannot be used in TC mode so no .csv is needed in any event.
  13. Assuming you've tried a different USB cable can you post a screen shot of "device monitor" from inside of Escribe? That will tell the tale.
  14. I had a similar problem with Crazy Wire SS430 and went to unkamen, which is also nickel free, but is only available in 28 gauge. I got the Crazy Wire working acceptably using a TCR of around .002 if I remember correctly. I'm now using the Crazy Wire as baling wire. The unkamen works very well with the curve from Steam Engine, at least for me. I usually twist two pieces to wind a coil, but to be honest, it really isn't necessary for me anyway.
  15. I think the right question would be why load a non-TC mode wire profile on a TC device in the first place? Power mode, non-TC, is the same no matter what wire is used and the only adjustment available is the power level. Temperature, and therefor a TCR, are not factors and can't be controlled.