awsum140

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awsum140 last won the day on April 15

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About awsum140

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    Senior Member

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    Sitting down, facing forward.
  • What DNA product do you own or plan to buy?
    DNA250/DNA200/DNA75/DNA60/DNA40/DNA25/DNA75C/DNA250C

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  1. My N1 250C

    I just built an N1, too. What size battery did you use? Mine is a 2200mah, 4S, NanoTech.
  2. "replay" rumor mill's already turning

    I bought, and built, a couple of 75Cs in anticipation of replay coming along, eventually and hopefully. Having a little idea of what it takes to write code makes me very patient. Bugs and "whoops" crop up all the time, even with all the alpha and beta testing in the world. Real world can't actually be duplicated even with beta testing since beta testing is usually done by "experts" or at least people with more knowledge and experience which doesn't duplicate the rest of us thumb fingered tinkerers. It'll get released if and when Evolv thinks it's ready, no sooner and no later. Be patient folks. On a side note, I didn't rush into the 75C when it came out because I was happy with the 75, 200 and 250. Now that I've used a 75C for a few days I'm liking it a lot and should have done this sooner. Now I'm off to finish the 250C sitting on my, what passes for, workbench. Just need to shovel the stuff off to the side so I have a clear spot to work.
  3. DNA75C Transplant

    I don't mind a little "proud", keeps marks off the mod, but the Evolv would stick out about 1.8mm. Way too much.
  4. DNA75C Transplant

    The 510s are StealthVape Source Flats, 22mm. I would have used Evolv 510s but the case top is too thin for them without major work to get them to sit flush.
  5. DNA75C Transplant

    I'm building two Alpine Tech GL2s and they hold dual 20700s, if that helps. The GL2 isn't too big and all the long sides have rounded edges so it's pretty comfortable in the hand. Left to right - Kanger K1(DNA75), Mod Crate ERM(DNA75), ERM+(1300mah DNA200), GL2(dual 20700 DNA75C), Alpine Tech N1(2200mah, 4S, DNA250C). The 75C and 250C are awaiting 510 connectors. .
  6. New to temp control

    Since you're running a 75C in temp mode, why not plug into a PC or laptop and run Device Monitor in Escribe? That will show you the power and temperature graphically. The you'll see at what power level your desired temperature is achieved at.
  7. New to temp control

    Without using a mod with TC there are just too many variables involved to be able to determine temperature simply from ohms and watts. Specific atomizer, coil diameter, wrap spacing, air flow, wick efficiency and a bunch of other minor variables come in to play. All those factors can vary from build to build which make it even more difficult to say what the real coil temperature may be.
  8. Help!!!

    Right there, behind the milk.
  9. Vapeman Steam Engine resistance

    Check this thread on this board -
  10. Vapeman Steam Engine resistance

    The problem is that at the level of resistance that is being worked at, even the slight variations from manufacturing, like slightly longer wire, quality of that, specific, piece of wire, quality of the soldering, not to mention the 510 connector, itself, all can make a difference in mod resistance. To be accurate, the only way is to check each mod. It's a shame manufacturers don't do that, but such is the world of profit and loss.
  11. Vapeman Steam Engine resistance

    To set the mod resistance you need to run atomizer analyzer with as close to a "dead short" in the 510 connector as possible. There are copper plugs available or an old atomizer base with the center pin soldered to the shell at the bottom will work as well. Atomizer analyzer will display the resistance between the 510 and the board, plus whatever your "dead short" might add, typically under .001 ohms. Enter that number in mod resistance. It may be advantageous to add a little, for example if you read .004, set it to .006 to compensate for accumulating corrosion over time and inconsistencies that do occur. Higher is safe.
  12. Weak temp control vape with ISub SS coil

    I've always found the 510/808/EGO/VGO to be kind of marginal, at best, especially from an electrical standpoint. The variations in center pin projection and exactly how the connection is made between the center pin and the coil become, shall we say, problematic at times especially at the resistance levels that TCR TC works at. A bayonet or twist-lock style connector would eliminate all of those variables as well as provide an easy way to add more connections. Yes, an additional connection could be added, coaxially, to the 510 but even that would require an upgrade by all of us "old time" vapers. It would be a slow, painful at times, process and I can hear the "I'll never change from the 510" tumult even now, but the same was said when VV/VW came along and yet again when TC came along. In the mean time, we're kind of stuck with "fiddly" TC using TCR or the "ping" method. Both are actually approximations but I do know from folks who have conducted empirical testing that DNA chips with reliable wire are pretty darn accurate. Just got to get rid of that fiddle factor somehow.
  13. Weak temp control vape with ISub SS coil

    I guess those variations actually make the case for sticking with titanium, although even there it can vary depending on purity and the other constituents making up the wire. Even with a known, reliable, supplier we are taking it for granted that their wire is always the same which is highly unlikely. Heck, there are, undoubtedly, variations in each roll we buy and use. Hopefully, they're not significant variations. I've felt for a long time that the only true way to get accurate temperature control is with a thermocouple. Unfortunately, that would require a complete change in connectors and exactly how that thermocouple gets inserted into the coil is another problem. On the brighter side, that would allow any wire type to be used and still be accurate even with kanthal. denniz, I agree with you that the factory SS coils are probably fine with devices from the same manufacturer and become problematic on other devices because they are, probably, not the alloy as expected. A vertical coil can cause even more problems.
  14. Weak temp control vape with ISub SS coil

    And that is my point. Unless the alloy is exactly as advertised the TCR is an unknown quantity and, therefor, so is the actual temperature of the coil. Given that Evolv is engineered to be accurate, and safe, while most (certainly not all) others are engineered to be "cost effective" I'll stick with Evolv and known wire types.
  15. Weak temp control vape with ISub SS coil

    Given that the accuracy of TC is determined by the TCR values of the specific alloy in use, "playing" with the TCR, IE guessing or trying different values until you get the vape you want, kind of defeats that accuracy and can lead to significantly different temperatures being present. The result being that device monitor will report the temperature based on that "fudged" TCR and not on reality. That's why I use, strictly, RBA atomizers and wire from known, reliable, sources.