CloudChaser

@black lace. That is what I was thinking. If the welcome screen(s) display was set long enough, they would be on while vaping. It would be quite simple to set it up. For instance, if your welcome screen was set for 40 seconds and your screen faded out in 30. Wala, custom fire screen. The only thing I'm not sure of is how long the device has to be idle for the welcome screen to display.

There is no custom screen for the fire button. The Welcome screens come on when the device is brought out sleep mode. I would like to see the video mason is referencing.

Under the "Theme" tab load your graphics in the "Welcome (Primary)" and if you want a second welcome screen "Welcome (Secondary)". Then set the time "S" in seconds you would like the screen(s) to be displayed.

Tanks/Atomizers with intermediate connectors are NOT well suited for temperature control devices, PERIOD! The problem is the insulator holding the coil leads and the intermediate pin. The intermediate pin introduces a second bridge. The first bridge is the tank/atomizer connected to the 510 connector. Anytime you have multiple bridges you have resistance fluctuation. The heat generated by the poor coil connection also softens the insulator and introduces more fluctuation. I was a huge KangerTech sub tank fan until I started using temp control devices. I had all the issues discussed on this thread. I have since shelved all of my sub tanks and found Steam Crave tanks. In my opinion the best tanks on the market. I know a lot of people like the convenience of the pre-built coils as I do. Sometimes I just want to pop in a new coil and go. However there is a price to be paid for the convenience...

The atomizer is key here. And tanks with intermediate pin connections are the worst for any temp control mod. I have used Nickel and the resistance varies too much for me. Besides it has a funky taste. I use Ti Surgical grade 1 and my atty of choice is the Steam Crave Aromamizer. The post screw connections are solid. 0.01 ohm variation is the maximum I ever see with the Steam Crave tank. I have spent a too much money on tanks trying to find one that would work well on the DNA 200 and Steam Crave has it and the they run out of stock quick! I have NOT had ONE DNA 200, 40 issue since I started using the Aromamizer. The Kanger Sub Tank is the worst. I had to change my 510 connector spring to get them to work half way decent. IT's THE TANK!!!

Hi Lewisss. Currently I use Mutation X MT (Mutation Tank). I use Ti, 6 wraps of 24 gauge dual coils @.13 ohms and I have no resistance problems as long as I tighten the hell out of the grub screws with the supplied screw driver. It does not clip the wires and is very stable. I have ordered a Steam Crave Aromamizer which employs a velocity style deck. Where did you purchase the grub screws?

I had the same problem with Ni200 and Ti1. It happened on all of my tanks and all of my temp control mods including my SX350j and DNA 200 nods. Check out my reply here. /topic/67809-topic/

I know I'm a little late here but I struggled with the same problem on all my temp control devices with Ti1 wire. After a month experimenting with a couple different tanks and two different Ti wires I found that it was the post screws. In the past I have watched videos and read forum postings not to tighten the post screws too tight as it would cut the wire. WRONG. A loose screw will cause the resistance to fluctuate. A couple days ago, I completed another build that worked fine for one tank. Then, I could here the loud sizzling of the liquid and I looked at the resistance and it had jumped 0.12 ohms (the resistance doubled to 0.24 ohms) which is a lot on a temp control device. I disassembled the tank and tightened the hell out of the screws. I got about 3/4 turn out of two of the screws. It did not cut the wire and when I checked the resistance on my atty ohm meter it was back down to 0.12 ohms which is where it is supposed to be. I reassembled the tank and it has been fine since. 6 tank fulls that is. The 510 connector is very important as well. I use the VariTube 510 connector on all of my mods. During assembly I discard the stock spring and install a 5 lbs spring instead. This eliminates the problems that are associated with tanks that employ an intermediate connection to the 510 connector pin. A good solid connection is very important on temperature control devices. A poor connection will cause resistance fluctuations! I hope this helps! Happiness is a tight screw

I agree with scoopy. I had a failure myself where I produced a cold solder joint on the 510 connector pin. The solder joint heated and opened the on board fuse and damaged the board. I contacted Evolv, admitted it was my fault and they replaced the board NQA. By far the BEST Vaping Device manufacture out there today. I temporarily jumped on YiHi 350J band wagon. I have 3 DNA 40's and 1 DNA 200 with plans to build 2 or 3 more extreme devices. Best board on the market sold by the best Vaping device manufacture...

Hi Blue. Definitely there was something wrong with the solder joint although it looked fine after soldering. I did not ship the board back as I did not think it was covered due to the nature of the failure. I had the same thought about the battery but all the cells were within 0.01 volts of each other and all cell values added up the pack voltage. The fact the board temperature was 25 degrees higher told me one or more of the semiconductor components are shorted. Electronic devices go through 3 stages. Normal, shorted and open. I believe one or more of the components are in the shorted stage. The board would not charge the battery due to the temperature spike when the USB cable was plugged in. I removed the battery and used my external charger and used the mod until yesterday when the new board arrived. I was able to use the board however I could not set wattage above 40 watts. If I went above 40 watts the board would shut down and reboot. I received the new board yesterday and modified the 510 pin. I drilled out the wire hole to accept the 14 awg wire. I also put a 1.5 lb spring in and you can definitely feel the difference when you screw the tank in. The new spring also got rid of the resistance variation coming from my Kanger sub tank. Currently all is well. Does Evolv repair boards?

I did a google search on "Titanium vape wire safety" and found the following link. Judge for yourself... https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/3aidka/pbusardo_re_titanium_wire_healthy_safe/ I never did like Ni200 wire as it's resistance characteristics drift, coils build up to easy and it adds a funky taste. My Titanium builds easily last 3 or 4 weeks. I never got that from Ni200.

He is my new DNA 200 Hammond 1591 C ABS enclosure Mamu face plate Turnigy nano-tech 2250mah 3S 65~130C Lipo Pack Mitek 16 mm fire button C&K tactile switches It took about 6 hours total to build including gluing the face plate, sanding and painting the box. Battery last about 13 hours of heavy vaping. My next project will be a Turnigy A-Spec 4200 hard pack.

I built my mod with the following parts: Hammond ABS 1591 C project box VariTube 510 connector Mitec 16 mm fire button 2 C&K tactile switches (Watts Up/Doun) Turnigy nano-tech 2250mah 3S 65~130C Lipo Pack DNA 200 Everything worked great for 2 weeks. One evening when I was taking a deep throat hit I heard a quick buzz (less than 2 seconds) and the board was dead. I removed the back cover and that familiar smell hit me. Burnt semiconductor. After inspecting the mod I found to things: 1) The on board fuse opened. 2) The solder connection to the 510 pin had melted. The buzz I heard was probably coming from arcing on the 510 connector. I replaced the on board fuse and also added an inline 25 amp fast acting fuse and modified the 510 connector with a heavy spring but it was too late. The board powered up just fine and I plugged into my pc and started the Device monitor. Right away I noticed the board was running 20 – 25 degrees hotter than before. I took a couple 50 watt throat hits and the unit displayed “Warranty Service” message. Also it takes 18 hours to charge the battery and it used to take roughly 6 hours. Charging would shut down when the board reached 130 degrees. The board is toast. My new board will be arriving Monday and my question is, is a 25 amp fast acting fuse too high? Any input would be appreciated