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Let's see your 200's!


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KTMRider said:



For the 3D printed where did you get the screws needed to attach the DNA to the 3D Printed posts?   I can't for the life of me figure out where to get the screws.    I do have one of these cases.   Also what did you use to raise the LED Display and keep it flush?

thank you

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xevape said:

For the 3D printed where did you get the screws needed to attach the DNA to the 3D Printed posts?   I can't for the life of me figure out where to get the screws.    I do have one of these cases.   Also what did you use to raise the LED Display and keep it flush?


thank you



http://www.mcmaster.com/#99397a122/=ya8xi8

It was about $15 shipped for 50. I split it with 2 other guys so it ended up being $5 for each of us. 
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[QUOTE=xevape]

[QUOTE=KTMRider][IMG]http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/rchay/vaping/DSC_2741_zpsfmrnpilk.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

For the 3D printed where did you get the screws needed to attach the DNA to the 3D Printed posts?   I can't for the life of me figure out where to get the screws.    I do have one of these cases.   Also what did you use to raise the LED Display and keep it flush?

thank you

[/QUOTE] Screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-forming-screws/=ya8xst Screen: Double sided foam tape, to press it snugly against the inside front. That's what worked for my plastic... John ;) Wick
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KTMRider said:

[QUOTE=Wick]What John said ^^


Those are cheaper and use philips head screwdriver. The T5 strips pretty easy. [/QUOTE] Torx are way better than Phillips any day of the week for me... You want nice screws go for these: http://us.screwerk.com Best, Wick
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My own 3d printed design, next to a Hana 200. Measures 105mm x 50 x 24, just 5mm taller than a 1590G box. Would really love to get this made in aluminum. Got a 1200mah lipo pack inside, one could put a smaller cell inside to make room for connectors (XT30, etc) for easy battery swapping. As it is now, there's no wiggle room at all.

IMG_20150730_214023.jpg 

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Wick said:

[QUOTE=xevape]

Screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-forming-screws/=ya8xst Screen: Double sided foam tape, to press it snugly against the inside front. That's what worked for my plastic... John ;) Wick[/QUOTE]

 Pan Head Phillips Screw for Sheet Metal, 18-8 Stainless Steel, Number 0 Size, 3/16" Length, packs of 50in the morning$6.74 pack 

Ordered & thanks
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My first Dna200. My first chip somehow was working then just stopped and wouldn't do anything plugged in or not. Could connect on escribe but no screen and no atomizer reading or firing. Just could see battery voltage. New chip is working flawless tho. I've built a few boxes with sx350j chips and dual 18650s in a 1550p and various dna40 things but the dna200 was nice to build. Still not finished with mounting the screen. Ordered some mamu board cradles that I wanna glue to the inside of my boxes as a board support. Also wanna redo my battery connector as I tend to wick too much solder into the wires making them stiff lol Also I might add. Despite all the haters on the forums who can only spit out "who needs those watts" or " such small mah batteries" this chip is the shit. I've been anticipating it since it was leaked. And it's been the best experience I've had and takes temp control to a whole new level that I don't think China will even catch up with. It truly is a masterpiece. Not to mention not having to worry about updating or a new chip coming out every week making the last one junk. Now I can just make my box. And flash advancements when they come. And the customer support is outstanding.

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Always_Jonezen said:

[QUOTE=xevape]#2 in a 1590A

IMG_20150731_203603.jpg IMG_20150731_192624.jpg IMG_20150729_212901.jpg 

Video
https://instagram.com/p/50iEj3AWIS/?taken-by=xevape

Looks damn good a lot of compact power. The only thing I see wrong is the Usb port is sticking up out of the case. Other than that I love it.[/QUOTE]

Working out the USB Port issue on #3.  I'm going to not cut the legs of the tact switchs so short as to raise them ever so slightly allowing the USB to rest even.
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VapingBad said:

You could make a shim for under the switches xevape, EG n layers of kapton tape would work well and you can get the height very exact. If you did don't do one at a time, layer lengths of tape then cut and fit to the back of the switch before soldering.



Trial and error my friend.   Great thing about these is they are SUPER easy to break down and rebuild.   The switches hold the dna200 in place, then a layer of heat shrink then the battery.
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I have done a few mods using the KSJs and usually have the up/down counter sunk so I don't need atty lock with the fire standing proud, but interference fit will loosen with use in aluminium so I always add some epoxy, polymorph or sugru to stabilise the switches, but then they are not so easy to rebuild.  More to the point that is that if you are making them in quantity you want easy repeatability and doing say 9 layers of tape is easier and more accurate than trying to bend and cut 4 legs without a jig.

ETA it's late here and I think that reads more negative that I meant, well don't mean to be negative at all but I am too tired to fix it and dyslexic so it's too easy for me to write what I don't mean.

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dnadone.png N1 enclosure/2200 mah pack/Mamu face plate. Finished yesterday. I'm honestly used to dripping w/ a lot more powder w/ the same 3s pack in my PWM box. I really want to like this board. I do like the screen and safety features built in for the lipo. If there was a firmware upgrade for 50-100 more wattts (250-300watts total) I would be stoked. lol 
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Bob you are officially the first to say they need more power. 

Do you have a measured mod resistance? Getting that right can get you a bit more oomph out of the board. What is your coil resistance, and are you running temperature protected?

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