Wick

looks like a sliding batt door. could be wrong tho. [/QUOTE] Spot on Best, Wick

Thank you!! Aluminum sliding door, indistinguishable from the fixed case side. Think "BB" style, there's some intricate machining going on here. THIN, but incredibly strong. Noted, will PM when I run. Best, Wick

Thank you!! Yes anyone competent with a milling machine (manual or cnc) could machine a recess for inlayed wood panels, as long as theres some thickness to work with. Best, Wick

Prototype, thinking of running some shortly. DNA 200 1000mah lipo (user serviceable), or dual 18650 6061 anodised case (vented), sliding door, buttons Stainless spring loaded 510 Stabalized wood panels 22mm profile Best, Wick

Very Nice Turbo!!!! ...that is tight. Wick

Show me a mod, mechanical or other, that runs on batteries THAT ARE NOT MADE IN ASIA!! Enough said, accept it, it's reality!! Wick Mods

Agreed! So true they look way blue'er in pics, it was nearly impossible to capture the more "white" one (more purple hue compared to others). Had to put them on a strange angle, and it still didn't do it justice. Many pics I tried had them both just looking blue in the photo. In any case they are both very acceptable colors, both nice, both clean. Would not have noticed anything if I didn't have them lit side by side. Wick

I believe we are just looking at variation here between production lots on screens. Best, Wick

When you putting em up??[/QUOTE] waiting for 3d prints. I do not want to release them without testing for adjustment (if required)[/QUOTE] You need testers I'll go mod for a mod... Yours, will be CNC aluminum. [/QUOTE] CNC aluminium is tempting [/QUOTE] Anodized to perfection. Hell, it may even have inlaid wood panels on the doors ;P[/QUOTE] LOL i'll let you know when it goes online[/QUOTE] Lol. Roger.

When you putting em up??[/QUOTE] waiting for 3d prints. I do not want to release them without testing for adjustment (if required)[/QUOTE] You need testers I'll go mod for a mod... Yours, will be CNC aluminum. [/QUOTE] CNC aluminium is tempting [/QUOTE] Anodized to perfection. Hell, it may even have inlaid wood panels on the doors ;P

When you putting em up??[/QUOTE] waiting for 3d prints. I do not want to release them without testing for adjustment (if required)[/QUOTE] You need testers I'll go mod for a mod... Yours, will be CNC aluminum.

of course [/QUOTE] You should add a little + and - under the buttons[/QUOTE] Shapways version has two buttons, basically with and without[/QUOTE] Dido on this?

When you putting em up??

Incredibly hard to capture, yet distinctly different to the eye!!! Got to figure how to shoot this best to show it. OK... This is a decent representation of what I'm seeing.

Oh dear god no... That's a few screens!!

Yep two of mine are from Protovapor as well, they are consistent with each other and with the boards received Directly from Evolv.

Hey Brandon, Yep positive... Black Opus200 comparing to Black Shapeways printed case. I noticed this and thought the same, I thought I was possibly seeing a difference of it against the black Opus case and a loose "air mod" (when I was still chip vaping it) both are mounted against black... It's distinct I'll get you over a pic. Best, Michael

Good to know, thank you sir.

Keep meaning to ask this... I've noticed a significant difference of the screen "whiteness" between sample boards and Opus200 screen. The opus is a hell of a lot "whiter" than both the two sample boards from Evolve and the pair I purchased from a distributor. Much proffering the Opus200 crispness (lack of blue). Both are set to 100% brightness through Escribe. Brandon, can I get the "Opus" screens when ordering qty? Oh and how can I get a replacement screen or two? I killed one bending the flat wire, like an idiot, far too close to the screen edge... o_O Thanks, Wick

Those are cheaper and use philips head screwdriver. The T5 strips pretty easy. [/QUOTE] Torx are way better than Phillips any day of the week for me... You want nice screws go for these: http://us.screwerk.com Best, Wick

[QUOTE=xevape] [QUOTE=KTMRider][IMG]http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/rchay/vaping/DSC_2741_zpsfmrnpilk.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] For the 3D printed where did you get the screws needed to attach the DNA to the 3D Printed posts? I can't for the life of me figure out where to get the screws. I do have one of these cases. Also what did you use to raise the LED Display and keep it flush? thank you [/QUOTE] Screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-forming-screws/=ya8xst Screen: Double sided foam tape, to press it snugly against the inside front. That's what worked for my plastic... John Wick

100%... Unless it's the audible loud click your after, you can achieve the exact same look of the KSJ Series switches with machined ball nose actuators, allowing you an array of materials and finishes on them. It's been a while since I've looked at those switches but I'm confident in recalling that they did not compare mechanical cycle life wise to the last switches on Evolv's 40s (KSE Series), KSEs are rated for at least three fold the actuation cycles in comparable actuation forces. I would have to assume the new switches on the DNA200 to be rated similar or better than the KSEs of previous boards. Wick

Just curious if you put a clear coat or anything on that print. Just from personal experience in the past I had my first shapeways printed mod in the dyed variety and I didn't put any coating on it. Eventually it started to show and I now put a matte clear coat on all my prints before assembly and they seem to hold up better for longer.[/QUOTE] No, but that is a great call.

AGREED.

Damn, this is serious John