KTMRider

Any chance you can upload .stl files along with the solidworks files?

Soda blasted and painted with Rustoleum Matte Clear.

It doesn't retain the clock/date at all. Definitely not 30 sec. It does restore the date and time when it's plugged into Escribe. Battery (LG HG2) is currently reading 3.94v (80%). I just tried disabling charging in Device Monitor for 10 sec and then enabling charging and it still doesn't charge. When I disabled, the led turned off and onscreen charging icon stopped. In the mod diagnostics, the USB voltage shows 5.1v and USB Amps is .8a I checked via a computer USB 3.0 port and an Anker PowerBot that delivers 2.4a per port. I'm using Anker USB cables. I've been using this set up for 12 other DNAxxx (40, 75, 200, 250) mods w/o issues.

I think I spoke too soon. I had it on a 2a charger for 2 hrs and while it shows onscreen that it's charging (icon) and the LED is pulsing red, it is not charging. I tried "Restore Defaults" and it doesn't make a difference. I loaded the default themes and no difference. Sending a soft or hard reboot command only blinks the screen for a split sec.

Out of curiosity, I have a 2nd DNA75c waiting for a replacement screen so I soldered a battery tray to it to test seems to be working fine. I swapped the board and now I have 1 fully working DNA75c mod. I compared the 2 boards thinking a fuse might've blown on the one that won't charge a battery but I can't see anything wrong with it.

Just built a mod with a Modcrate case and was playing with escribe. I uploaded a Star Trek theme and now it won't charge. When I plug a USB cable in, the indicator light on the board goes from red to green in about .5 sec. I uploaded the default theme and no difference. Any ideas? The USB cables are high quality and work with all my other DNAxxx mods (about 12 of them). Also, when I change batteries, I have to set the time and date again. Is this normal?

Hana v200 never came with DNA200 settings. I've used mine as is for over a year and no issues.

The lipo batteries used in these mods are from the r/c hobby and not designed or invented for vaping but well suited which is why they're being used. 18650s have also been around before vapers started using them in mech mods. 18650s have higher power density than lipos but can't handle high amp draw like lipos are able to (high end batteries). To get higher mah lipos, the mods would have to be bigger. There's no way around that. Some lipo capacities are rated higher than they should (like some of the ones used in Hcigar). You would think twice about a mod if you saw the actual size of a 2200mah 3s lipo.

No DNA250 section so I'm throwing this in here DNA200 on the left (950mah), DNA250's in the middle and right (1300mah)

Can't really say w/o looking at your soldering but you shouldn't get any sparks. I've soldered the battery directly to the board on a couple of my mods and never had any sparks. You should solder the positive lead from the battery first, then the ground.

This is what I've been doing for my DNA200's and DNA250's: I cut a small piece of closed cell foam and wrap it with electrical tape with the sticky part on the outside. I try to make a point to touch the sticky part so it's not so sticky.

Button life came up on ECF and I was curious to know. I thought it was 300,000 to 500,000. 100,000 isn't a lot. I already have 80,000 puffs on most of my DNA200's. Does anyone have more than 100,000 puffs on theirs?

Any update? I'd be more interested if I knew what they looked like.

The service starts at $25. If it's just over the 4 month period, I would try to push them (nicely) to cover the repair. They're pretty good about it and might help you out.