Cotay

The board in this particular build was unmodified and working fine for a month and a half of daily use. I see absolutely no indication of why it died. If it is anything I've done, there is nothing in my builds that is apparent to me that would cause this.

This was in two entirely different builds. The build that had the first dead board is working fine with the replacement board from Evolv.

So my second board (from the ECF Co-Op) just up and died. Same exact symptoms as the first dead board, except this time I was able to vape for about 5 minutes this morning before it just stopped working. The board does not register in EScribe and is completely dead. I had upgraded to the latest firmware two nights ago. The replacement board from Evolv for my first dead board and a board purchased at retail are working fine so far. Frustrating to say the least.

Do you need me to do anything else with the board? Pics of it wired up?

EScribe isn't recognizing the board at all and USB is not powering it up, so I can't pull any data.

Hi John, This was one of two boards received from Mike Petro's Co-Op on ECF. The firmware was updated yesterday post build to the 7/16 firmware. You are correct, it never fired this morning. I could have sworn however that the screen did light up before I went to vape it. I went ahead and also tested the battery as well and all three cells are in balance at 3.87v each. Forgive my ignorance, but where can I find the production date? I assume it's printed on the board, but my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

I just had the board in a new build up and die after more than seven hours of use. I just finished the build about 5:00 PM last night and vaped it until 12:30 AM PST with out any issues. I had it set to 18W with a Subtank Mini, a .15 ohm Subtank Ni coil with temp protect set to 530F. When I went to bed, I took the atty off and set it aside for the night. I reinstalled the same atty/coil this morning and as I drew my first pull it just died; there were no indications of issues on the screen when I installed the atty. No sounds came from the board...it just stopped working. I could feel the front of the mod starting to get more warm than usual after it died, so I desperately found my T3 bit and pulled the screws...this took about 20 minutes to do since in my haste I stripped the access screw heads. When I did get it open, the battery was perfectly cool, but the bottom board sink was almost too hot to touch; I didn't feel the top sink since I immediately disconnected the battery. The board then cooled quickly. Nothing is coming up on USB and EScribe doesn't recognize the board now. My wires all look fine with no indication of shorts, melting or burning. Any ideas?

Good for Hana...I respect their quick move to change it.

Here is what I'm building tomorrow! Happy weekend to me!

I think it's a bit more misleading than simply an intent to list the combined mAh rating of the individual series cells. Listing them as "equivalent to" is fair game, but saying that someone is getting something they are not is not acceptable. The way the specifications are written for these mods is clearly intended to convey something more than the equivalence in runtime; they categorically state up front that they have 2850mAh/3000mAh Lipos and they don't. I've already seen less informed folks on other forums being confused by this.

Anybody else bothered by the misleading marketing that we are starting to see from mod manufacturers regarding LiPo mAh ratings? Specifically, Hana lists the V200's battery as a "2850 mah Lithium Polymer battery (950mah 3s)" and Boxer is claiming a "3000mAh Lipo Battery Pack: (1000mAh / 3S1P / 3 Cell / 11.1V)." Now I understand marketing spin fully, but this is at best negligence and at worst willfully and intentionally misleading. In my opinion, the parentheticals don't get these manufacturers off the hook either. If they had indicated an 18650 equivalence (like Brandon and Opus have rightfully done), it would be an entirely different story. No LiPo battery manufacturer lists its specifications in this manner and in my opinion neither should mod manufacturers. Everyone who knows anything about LiPo ratings understands that a true 2850mAh/3000mAh LiPo simply wouldn't fit in the V200 or Boxer enclosures. Sure the watt hours of LiPo batteries are generally superior to ICR/IMR cells at a given amp rating, but the batteries in these things are not what these manufacturers appear to be intending to convey. Those of us in these forums are likely to catch the BS, but to the uninformed, these misleading ratings are a disservice. DNA200 mod manufacturers should be educating people properly about LiPo batteries and LiPo safety rather that trying to one-up the competition with inflated and misleading battery specifications. This kind of garbage is only going to cause confusion for those who are new to LiPo technology and seems more about getting a leg up on the competition than making sure users fully understand the characteristics of LiPo batteries. Maybe it's just me, but I'm really disappointed in such manufacturers. On principle I won't buy from any manufacturer that isn't dedicated to providing accurate and informative battery specifications. Having spent the last 15 years as a corporate attorney for semiconductor manufacturers, I can tell you that I'd never approve any marketing materials with such inaccurate/misleading information. Again, maybe it's just me...

Here is my first print design that has been shared on ECF. It is designed to work with the Hyperion G6 900mAh. With 3mm-4mm walls it is very solid and nice to hold. I will be switching out the flat buttons for rounded ones on Monday. I haven't finished the build yet, so here is a pic of it powered up via USB next to an SX Mini S-Class. Here it is next to a Roku remote before I fit the board and screen:

Thanks, I added the BW. To be honest I have doubts about its mAh rating or the dimensions seem like they'd be off. Known batteries from established manufacturers with a similar height are generally much thicker and wider at the 1500mAh+ level. Have you had any personal experience with the battery and can verify its mAh and dimensions?

I have been keeping a running list of LiPo batteries that meet the following specs: 1. 3S 2. Height of 95mm and under 3. 25A capable minimum https://docs.google.com/document/d/1t0WrumfRjWbN-UTHu5VUemZQHjkO5gqH9_rFbJa0wXk/edit The specs are manufacturer specified, but remember that some manufacturers are reported to inflate C-ratings (Maxamps has been accused of this in various RC forums...I have no experience with them so I can't speak to the veracity of the claims) and I've found that sizing can sometimes be off by as much as 1mm-4mm for some batteries. Measurements also normally don't take into consideration the height required for the balance and power connector wires. The best advice I can give is that if you are interested in a specific battery, acquire one first and then design your enclosure around it. I try to add them as I find them, so if you think something should be on the list that isn't, please let me know.

Regarding the Turnigy 1300mAh 25C, keep in mind that some people have received examples that have been 2mm-4mm taller than the stated specifications. I have two and they are both just shy of 74mm tall.

Thanks for looking into this John. The size of the Hyperion G6 is darn near perfect for a smaller mod...any tradeoff in battery longevity is fine with me....I'll just buy and install another when the time comes.

The DNA200 datasheet states that it is vital that the battery not be charged beyond 4.2V per cell. Will the board allow up to modify this value for a HvLi battery like the Hyperion G6 series that needs to be charged to 4.35V per cell to reach its full rated capacity? Here is a write up from Hyperion on these LiPo's: http://media.hyperion.hk/dn/g6hvlipo/default.htm

How about using a JST-XH extension cable by removing the male connector and soldering the bare wire from the female connector?

It appears that IMR 18650s can be used but you would need an accessory board from Evolv to convert them to a pack with the appropriate tap connector. Page 10 of the datasheet says the following: "If you are manufacturing a device that is designed to be used with three individual replaceable 18650 cells, an accessory board is available from Evolv to adapt from three individual cells to a pack and tap connector pinout, as well as provide cell-by-cell protection against incorrectly installed or reversed cells."

Sculpteo is able to upload and automatically convert the provided IGES (IGS) vectorial format files. However, they recommend using STL or OBJ files for best results. Shapeways won't accept them and will require you to convert to one of their accepted file formats...typically STL. I use Solidworks to convert to STL. I just discovered that the front frame will only pass Shapeway's design checks in stainless steel...which seems odd to me since the Strong & Flexible plastics usually can accept thinner walls than stainless steel prints.

Thanks Justin. The .pdf still doesn't work, but your link worked fine. My email address has been verified and the other downloads to the beta enclosure and board files work fine. EDIT: The .pdf is now working as well.

It appears that permissions aren't properly set to download the Datasheet. I've verified my account but the link states "you don't have permission to perform this action".