blueridgedog

Assuming the 133 vs 200 issue is moot, you would get more mah with the 18650s. However, you would have the downsides of having to put in the added monitoring wiring or use the soon to be released add-on board for the dual mode and you would be running the chip in a mode less than the ideal designed one. An advantage for the lipo is that the discharge curve is a bit better. I am using that same pack and find that it is about 1.2 to 1.5 times a good 18650. Personally I would go lipo as it is a good time to make the break and move to the new power system.

Some general tips: Solder the negative last, keep all open leads taped while working and keep in mind once you do the solder job the board is on and HOT for good, so be careful with tools, metal enclosures etc.

Your initial resistance is about right for the wire and coil you describe. A hot leg is almost always a short of some sort to the atomizer...after I build a coil I put a rod through it and lift/move it looking all around for possible contact with the atomizer, and keeping in mind the cap that will go on as it will short to that if you raise it to high. The weak vapor is frequently the result of varying resistance in the atomizer (base screw or spring in some models). A firm 510 pin is a big help as it pushes hard on the atomizer. So my only advice is to look for shorts, try with smaller coils in case you are running out of room with the cap and check the atomizer (testing different screw positions). I have six identical atomizers and two are finicky.

Some folks in the RC world indicated that these folks could make a custom cable (qty of 1 and above): http://www.miracoinc.com/services-capabilities/flat-flexible-cables-design-sourcing-fcds

What is the resistance you get with that build? The short could be due to insufficient tightening of the wire under the screw. Unreliable TC function is typically an atomizer with variable internal resistance or a coil with the same.

What is the behavior with ohms unlocked?

Eager for them to release nickel coils for the Smok TFV4

Post these unusual symptoms in the "trade ya" thread...and open a ticket. Your issue sounds like a good one to get back in and look at the entire mod.

Excellent work mandro. The outer battery case looks plated.

Nut and screw or just nut?

Did you build it? Can you post an image of the inside wiring, specifically the solder joint for the 510 OUT and GND as well as the solder job on the 510 pin? I suspect a cold solder joint in one of these locations.

I get 0.00 ohms when a new atomizer is installed until the fire button is pressed once.

In theory no...you will want to power your LED per the outline a few posts up.

Yea...I was referring to the pre-production renders of the DNA200.

It would be amazing if there was a true extension cable rather than the parts to create one. The VS one has the screen in a "far away" place, so once we get a look inside, we may be able to source something.

I would start a ticket along with offering this up for discussion. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

I think you are going to have to try and desolder the battery to force a reset. If that fails to resolve the issue, then you are looking at a return so they can evaluate what happened.

There are several examples on this forum. The fall into either using three tube standoffs of some sort or a plastic bezel.

Looking good, but I think you are heading for a direct solder of the balance charger interface and the battery main leads. I did that for the same space reasons.

There are solder point for off chip buttons. On-chip buttons can be left in place if you use them.

Yes. There are solder points on the chip for off-chip buttons. I am not certain that more complexity of install = more durable.

It may be that you need to install the USB port in the guest OS for each mod due to variations in port assignments. To test, I would delete the USB port assignment from the Guest configuration then set it up again with the new mod.

That is the step I am curious about as well. Any metal case where the chassis is the ground, to fire the mod normally then short it while mid fire. If that is ruled out, then we are only left with mounting methods, fastener size as it relates to adjacent chips or components and the amount of torque placed on the fastener. These are the only issues where non-conductive enclosures and conductive ones vary.

Have you tried a hard reboot in escribe? Have you tried a battery removal for a hard reboot? If you pull the battery, then reinstall the battery, reboot your computer, plug in the DNA200, launch escribe and then attempt a manual firmware update that fails, the next step I recommend is a help desk ticket for a replacement.

If escribe in your guest OS sees your DNA200, and sees your friends DNA200, will open your friends DNA200, but will not open your DNA200, then I am inclined to think it is something specific to your chip. My only thought is to use another computer to put the latest firmware on your chip.