blueridgedog

Do have access to another computer? I quick way to determine if it is PC setup or chip is to install escribe on a clean, non-development, system and try the manual firmware update.

Bare chip or in a mod? Do all buttons move freely when you press them (feel a click and they return to normal)?

It was to far back to recall. Now I just boot Kali and use the CPU version, but I rarely need it as I have been out of IT for a while. I still have the "mother of all dictionaries" though. 5.8 gig.

...yea step one is to load escribe and see what the voltages of each cell are.

USB only power on has, in my experience (can't speak for Evolv), been no battery seen or improper battery seen. I lost one cell and the device would only come on with USB power.

I like the idea of a wall to keep the cable out of the button area. Currently I do the S bend during assembly, positioning it with tape, holding the first bend to the chip.

It looks like you are going to have to remove the chip and determine if it is the assembly or the switch...or send it back to Hana.

Either the pad has lifted or there is a large standoff solder bridge. I recommend you swap the fuse. and tighten/shorten your battery legs. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/3413033222/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujkDmRci6X%252bAjZpKNMNNwxjncWzATFONlvFFtZLJI1Yww%3d%3d

Somewhere in the tool box is a soldering heat sink that I have not used in 30 years...it will come to the surface.

Impressive. I went down the road of compiling aircrack with cuda support. Shockingly fast with one GPU.

If you are getting the boxes already milled and just cutting the opening, the I understand why you would be reluctant to cut the matching holes as you would still have the chip mounting concern. I have made a 1.5mm bezel that will epoxy onto the inside of the enclosure and features chip mounting holes, so you could still mount the chip in a sled, but have the finished metal on the customer side.

It would be a great feature, but I just keep mine at 200w and let the chip adjust as needed.

R model. Yep.

It is an interesting observation that we are getting to a wire size where screw terminals for the wire would be an interesting alternative.

I did this a few times and got acceptable results sliding the silicone jacket down enough for the job (room for the collar and spring) then sliding it back. IMHO the commercial 510s are poor products for the 200 for the reason discussed and for the pressure they apply.

Though not related to fixing yours, I have found that tinned thick wire is a risk if not angled right. After installing a few I found out that I needed to understand the angle the wire needed to take in the case, bend for that angle prior to tinning, otherwise the tinning creates a rigid area much further up the wire then intended, so when you attempt to install the board, the pad takes too much pressure trying to bend the tinned portion of wire.

As to charging, I assume you set the WH rating of the pack. As to the chip, the issues seen with Hana and Opus have been install methods and materials in the majority of cases. There are some defective chips but they seem to be outweighed by incorrect installations.

Logic would imply that it has to be the supply end making the call as well. Though I would only think of charging a mod from a computer in a worst case scenario. I have had three USB charge issues over the years and a cable and or wall brick is a cheap replacement.

Could be that there is a poor connection at the three mounting points due to contamination of the chip or the box (anodizing left on the box) or that the connection is poor mechanically (not tight enough).

The most critical need for a good DNA200 mod, both for the one off DIY guy and for the 100 at a time artisan shop, is the evolv 510. The extra pressure from the wave spring and the method of stopping the downward travel of the support (the C clip vs threaded plastic) should become standard. Additionally, if you are mounting the box into the cnc machine why not cut away less material and have the right holes for the ship vs needing another part?

I have seen references to acetone vapor bath smoothing for ABS and PLA.

I have gotten amazing results with acetone, acetone based nail polish and CA.

Can you tell me more about the problem on a Hana ? I find that i often need to lock the resistance at 0.010 - 0.015 higher than cold reading.. What mod resistance is used on Hana in general? I suppose it would lower the reading even more.. [/QUOTE] Hana devices have been found to have an insufficient ground path. They do not include a ground connection to the atomizer and rely on the chip to chassis ground. Some have added a ground wire with success.

Thanks. I will give it a shot.

Well, we are still in great shape compared to the 40. I was 0 for 5.