blueridgedog

So the Mac and the guest OS see the mod, but escribe won't?

So, if for an instant, the atomizer shorts, and the full negative DC voltage is passed to the ground, therefore the board, that may risk the fuse.

Just to see if I follow and to toss out some observations: You are suggesting that there is a level of low resistance that is above that required to give the "atomizer short" error, but that it still could represent a threat to the board? Having watched these threads and other forums, there appears to be a observable increase in fuse blows in metal enclosures than plastic ones, especially ones that rely on a nut on the inside of the case, pressed against the board (Opus). One theory is that the nut allows the board to be installed to tight and that the board is crushed to the point where layers may contact. Another is that the nut creates a potential short path to other components on the board.

USB 3 is the same cable and is backwards compatible. I use USB 3 ports to talk to the Board (macs only come with USB 3).

Resistance is resistance. .3 of kanthal should have worked, though you run the risk of over heating your atomizer insulators if you use a coil that is right on the atomizer.

Step one is to make certain your DNA200 is seen by the mac: Click the apple icon in the top menu, then "about this mac" then "system report" then view your USB devices. You must see the DNA200 from the mac such as: From there, open virtual box and go to the USB settings area for the machine you are configuring, click the plus sign and enable the DNA200 as a USB device on the virtual machine: Start the virtual device and prior to running escribe, make certain the guest OS can see the DNA200 by clicking the USB icon at the bottom right:

Good point...only one atomizer at a time should work.

How would you prevent it from firing each at a time? If you can't switch out one, it would fire them and read the resistance as combined, therefore never delivering enough watts to work.

I believe it is a torque issue on the nuts. I asked if there was a spec for how tight to make them, but missed the reply as I can't keep up with more that three things at once.

I am glad that others get the point that this is a China company to China company issue...why are their products in not in most BMs? Fastech and similar. In fact, several of the B&Ms I go to get their inventory from Fastech and similar. These direct sale China companies are giving folks wholesale plus 5% pricing (or less) with free shipping. The end result is that decent brands can't get a foothold in the US B&M structure. I don't think this will be solved as the economy of scale is pressing on them. If they want a B&M product, then they will have to not sell to the big Chinese on-line retailers as they are very happy for their 3% and massive volume.

I have used covers, only for aesthetics, not function. On my personal builds I use a lexan sheet that has been fit to the opening, then coated with blackout (designed for lights...allows light to pass in one direction). From there I remove the film covering on the factory screen (carefully...again carefully). The end result is a pitch black display area that really shows light through it. This is my beater that has blackedout lexan...it has also opened a few cases of beer bottles:

When I have this issue, it is usually traced to poor coil build and poor atomizer resistance consistency. One way to address it, mine anyway, is to measure the resistance of the clean coil with a quality meter, fit the coil as a reference test then remove it and stretch it out...re-measureing the resistance (a lot to do, but this is just once for a given wire size). So as I build in a given atomizer, I know the resistance of the coil going into it and can see problems right off when it is put on the mod. What type? Sometime I have to remove and clean the atomizer posts, or the 510 screw or clean out the mod's 510, but at least I know when things are off. Example: I built what was supposed to be a 0.22 coil in four atomizers to get me through the week. One was .37 out of the gate and vaped hot hot hot...but I knew I had built it wrong and so it was easy to find the issue (poor post connection). Another contributor of weak vapor, even with a good coil is juice flow. A wick that can't keep up with the demand just can't make vapor.

Yea...I have been keen on the reference mod since Mike showed his off. The 510 is the main reason. I will get one one day when Evolv lets loose of a few.

I suggest you also review the discussion in the dual 18650 threat as the wiring and ability of the chip to work with two cells is covered as well as a discussion that some chips don't play well with 2s compared to others. You should post your issue there as well.

So you are going to solder two sockets together? Like to see it when done.

2s selected in escribe? Likely, but had to ask.

Mundy, if you find a set of parts that work, please post a definitive list so others can follow your path.

There is a thread here that references a cable extension. Look around and you should find it.

Modding the 200 without spare screens is like waling a tight rope without a net.

The are solder points for off-board buttons and I believe you can remove the on-board ones carefully.

Thanks for the mention of Fusion. I am installing it now to give it a try. My only reason I always go back to VirtualBox is that the virtual guest OS's are transportable across platforms (I can move a given guest OS to Linux or Windows or my mac). Given that I historically ran Linux on my mac it was a great fit (though I have gone back to OSX for the last few years).

Great...it sounds like we have some parallels knowledge here too in case there are questions.

I assumed they went to a nut and a ground plate as I thought that it would have gotten in the way of the case ground as well.

Thinking ten to fifteen wraps of the thickest stuff on hand around a broom handle sort of thing...

Shielded wire would be the easy route. I think the kanthal suggestion was in the event that you wanted to make your own resistor.