blueridgedog

[QUOTE=FloridaBill] I also am having an issue with my Hana V200. Yesterday I went into EScribe and changed the battery capacity from the 8Wh setting that it had arrived with to 10.545. This morning it seemed to have lost some power overnight, so I connected it to the EScribe Device Monitor and discovered that cell 3 is discharging by itself. I did both a soft and hard reboot from EScribe but neither fixed the problem. Currently I am showing cell 1 at 4.20V, Cell 2 at 4.16V, and Cell 3 at 2.75V.[/QUOTE] If you charge it and it comes up, but then drops, I would suspect a bad pack.

Ah...ok I assume theirs will be well designed. You could as a short term approach use diodes at each + tap.

Just double checking...I am now down to measure four times and cut once. If they are then it has to be a film.

Nice work. I will have to build a metal one soon. What battery?

Here is what I do for the thicker wire: Flux wire and board. Tin wire and board. Flux and Tin iron and apply solder to iron. Re-flux tinned wire and pad. Heat the end of the wire while not touching the board...heat until it is fully past the plastic stage. Use the iron to push the end of the wire with liquid state solder onto the tined pad. Allow the heat built up in the thick wire to flow the tinning on the pad. Remove iron. The end result should be shinny and solid. In practice this is a very short operation.

Perhaps Evolv can add them to the items you can order from their website. They can be sent with a stamp and an envelope so shipping is nearly moot.

I assume the triple 18650 mod that is on the market has a hand build balance connector that you should be able to work up yourself and use the on-chip connector. If you can solder the rest of the mod, make a triple sled and put the batteries in series, then you should be able to simply add a charge tap at each + and the - and be ready to go. Perhaps evolv can comment as to if this actually works.

Are they each set to the same brightness in escribe?

Once you unplug the battery, it is not hot. three screws come out and the chip lifts up to the extent that there is play in the 510 wire. You should be able to rotate it slightly to see how the screen ribbon lays. If there is signs of a pinch, use a toothpick or something similar to move it away from the button while you reposition the chip.

Extras are nice: http://modcrate.myshopify.com/products/dna-200d-replacement-screen-oem They should be back in stock soon and only $4.00

Brightness > 0...thanks...I fooled with it and moved on thinking I would come back to it.

I use: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438644610&sr=8-1 Amazing value.

In a pinch you could even use some hardwood dowel material from the local big box store. Cut to length, sand to final and drill to fit your mounting method. You could even epoxy this to the enclosure so it would take a screw to hold the board in.

I still have some love for the 40. Working on the ultimate enclosure. Fourth print should be the charm!:

You can't check it without removing the chip. So my advice is to ask the retailer for instructions on what you should do. I don't think Evolv can answer the question and the only other replies will be from just other interested parties. Send Hana Modz an email and see what they say. Personally (though think I could build one in my sleep at this point) I would just get a spare screen for little currency and know that if it goes you are covered. I just ordered a handful of them as I tend to be rough on them anyway (test fitting odd configurations).

Amen. Very very very stoked about what it opens up. It is actually easy to assemble (eight fast solder joints and three screws), powerful, customizable, warrantied, small, battery system variable, accurate, adaptable and obtainable. Hard combination to beat.

Good to know. Mike and I looked at it in detail, but he was reluctant to take the chip out. We would have seen that had we done so. An over time if the tape gives way do to the environment, it is moot as it will only spring back so far as the button is seated. Perhaps I will get him to take it apart now so we can see the lay of the loop. Sad that Hana did not do so...they will be swamped.

My only failure was due to screen pinch. I resolved it and fitted a replacement screen. Even if you move the display window down as far as reasonably allowed, the ribbon is too long to avoid a potential loop pinch with the fire button. I can address this from a case design standpoint by moving the chip stand-off points higher, with an offsetting inset for the USB cable head, as doing so would push the USB port back into the device (sadly this grows the enclosure by and equal distance for the same battery) and by making a power button that comes more to a small point internally. Along with those teaks, the ribbon is a high focus area for the install as you will want to manually see that it is looped away from the power button. A pointed rear face of the power button may be a simple solution that works by itself (I will print one out and give it a test). Even though I have fixed mine and designed around it for future enclosures, I would still love a reference case! The big bang on that is the pressure of the 510...I think that is essential for correct TC vaping as all commercial 510's (in my opinion) lack enough pressure to create non-variable resistance in an atomizer (the screw needs firm pressure against it).

This would be fantastic on a profile by profile basis...for any TC profile, my watts is typically the max or so high it is never adjusted during vaping. Only way now is different profiles with set temps.

Love a link as I am working on a rocker switch as well and could use a look at the back side.

The Opus has a nut positioned very close to board components and the Hana has a under spec battery connector (though that would not impact the screen as much as ham fisted installers). The assembly of each was underwhelming.

I have not had a dead board. I have gone through some screens as I have been doing mod design work for others, so a lot of install and removal. The screen's are fragile. I just finished a small screen DNA40 layout and the chip/screen made it through four test prints (very tight fit) before giving up. At least I don't have to be gentle with number five!

Same issue under XP (in a virtual box on mac). I will setup a Win7 vBox and test it. I did not know people still ran Vista!

I am just starting to use the chip, so my thoughts may evolve (no pun intended) but the custom screens I seem likely to encounter are lock screens, charging screens and profile screens. Some of the variables that may be useful to use to build informative displays are pack V, cell V, profile number, profile name and resistance value. The concept is a generalized one whereby a person can build textual strings with variables for display...others may think of interesting out of the box ways to use the toolkit.

I had to use 20ga for the atomizer as well for now as I am waiting on additional wire (literally on a slow boat from China). To deal with that I set the pre-heat wattage to 80. I will open it up once I solder in the correct wire, though with a 1 second punch, theoretically I could go more, but there is no reason to push it.