VapingBad

I doubt it would overcharge, the battery bar is just info from the charging system and meta data, the charging circuit will limit the max voltage feed to the battery. I would check the battery and balance connections for dry joints first and then the battery on a volt metre vs what the device/escribe read and if they all match I would suspect the battery, but just generic guesses.

It may take a couple of charge/discharge cycles for the device to learn the battery and the batter bar takes the wattage setting onto account so you should see the batter bar rise as you lower the wattage.

Watch it in atty analyser as it heats & cools, maybe just not resetting the min res cause under 25%, but could also be a few other things and Escribe is really helpful with AA & DM.

I used a bit of mobile phone screen protector cut with scissors and stuck (no extra glue) to the screen before fitting this time as the case was thinner and the screen wider than my previous builds, so don't need to do anything special to the case. Usually I don't bother the oldest DNA I did is 20 months old and the screen is still good.

IIRC the hard limit is 3.0 V, but as I'm sure you know newer batteries will do better.

This thread may be a better place to find out that /topic/67183-topic/

If you are desperate to show your startup bmp you could put it as one of the profile screens and call it up at will.

It's the heat build up that is the problem with air cooled coils Gm111 as the analyser runs for a long time so think big, much bigger than anything you would vape with.

Wouldn't Loctite degrade it's accuracy reading small changes in resistance?

Your board is on it way back isn't maybe PM John with the RMA number and a link to this thread.

deleted, misread a previous post

I still get a full bar with max charges, I don't display the % just the Wh.

IIRC it can't balance the battery, but I could be wrong.

We are not all in the USA this is the Internet you know not the town hall notice board. I am happy to buy US products, but this forum is about the DNA200 not one countries politics.

Then you have to set all the other tabs manually for each mod, except Themes that can be saved separately. But more important is inadvertently overwriting the battery and case setting by opening an ecig file from one of your other devices.

I've found a slightly smaller battery I'm thinking of using it's a 100c 2000 mah 11.1v. Would it be a good idea to add in a fuse or resistor or mosfet or anything like that or does the chip already have most of that covered?[/QUOTE] The DNA has that covered, it has a fuse and you don't need a MOSFET, but you only need a max of 23 A from an 11.1 V battery so while it is great to have a battery that can do double that I doubt there is any benefit form having a 200 A battery, but no harm either. IMO the quality is more important once you have enough amps and a bit extra as a buffer, say 35 - 50 A. I would rather have good quality 25 A than a poor 40 A, but at the sizes you are looking at most probably have more than enough current/amps.

I have two different DNA200s, which have different cases and batteries and have to be careful not load the .ecig file from the other as it will assign the mod specific values (everything on the Mod tab) even though it is the other device ID and the result would be undesirable. I would like to load and save non device specific settings without the risk of changing these values. There are lots of ways to factor this, but I think that there should be a device type and prompt box before overwriting battery and device parameters as a safety device to stop inadvertently overwriting these on a different device. In the same vein I feel non device specific settings should be independently handled, that would the be General, Theme and Screen tab setting. Maybe a few check boxes for importing settings form another config would be the easiest to do quickly. (You know it good when the suggestions are about fine details like this)

C = capacity, so 50 x 2.2 = 110 A The fire button only uses a little power so any normally open momentary switch should work, but it is easiest to use the on board one IMO. You do need a good 510 mainly so it has a low and stable resistance for monitoring temperature rather than raw power.

Connected when updating the escribe executable not the fw, that's how I read it, but could be wrong.[/QUOTE] Yes, EScribe was already updated. The failed update was of the firmware. Sorry for the confusion.[/QUOTE] Sorry my bad, you know what they say about assumption, sometimes Windows is too slow assigning drivers and can do it if it is a known device just on a different port.

Connected when updating the escribe executable not the fw, that's how I read it, but could be wrong.

Sounds like you updated while the device was connected which is asking for trouble, but if you had saved your escribe settings you should be able to reload them like most software. It is not "bricked" unless it never works again.

Pg 14 of the data sheet, meds form dentist = had a bad day, hope it good in the AM

Thanks James

Are those South Park episodes

Thanks James, would be nice to save the DM Time Scale as well, I am normally only interested in 1 puff so set to 5 secs.